... but why aren't shadows affected too?
It does, but because you overexpose, what would be a deep shadow now ends up somewhere halfway the typical curve of the film if you were to develop normally. Now you also cut back development, so the shadows drop back again again little bit, but due to the reduced developments, the highlights are held back as well. And hey presto, the dynamic range of the image is compressed in the negative.I understand it is something to do with developing the highlights but why aren't shadows affected too?
I think I understand what happens when you underexpose + overdevelop (pushing) or the vice versa (pulling).
However this technique is quite strange. You overexpose the image and underdevelop it (cut the dev time in half). This way you supposely get more dynamic range? I understand it is something to do with developing the highlights but why aren't shadows affected too?
It looks like a voodoo to mePlease explain what really happens? Should we always underdevelop then, why not?
To an extent. With regular development times, shadows tend not to be developed out entirely. Which makes sense as otherwise push processing would have no effect.The key here, is that the shadows always finish first, then the highlights finish later, when you develop.
To an extent. With regular development times, shadows tend not to be developed out entirely. Which makes sense as otherwise push processing would have no effect.
... Correct me if I'm wrong but while I'm mostly using the negatives for printing, the smaller latitude would not hurt that much since paper cannot represent the same tonal range as film can? Or I'm I mixing two different things here?
A black-and-white negative has the potential to contain a whole lot more information than you can squeeze on to a piece of print paper. The trick is to get the important values in your negative to print where you want them. You can overexpose and overdevelop a negative and it will retain separation of values that end up being to far apart on the contrast gradient to print together in a straight print, even at the lowest contrast setting. Dodging and burning help make some cases like this easier, as do tricks like flashing the paper or SLIMTs.
This is just the beginning, however... I'll often make a too-contrasty negative, knowing in advance that it's going to be a PITA to print, because I want lots of local contrast in a certain part of the print, e.g., a shaded rustic façade, with a bunch of bright clouds in the background. I'll expose and develop for the façade, which will put the clouds way too high to print well in a straight print. Then I'll burn the clouds to get detail there. In other words, I've just made a "too-contrasty" negative for the print paper, but a "just-right" negative for the contrast in the area that's important and I'm dealing with the difficulties with print manipulations. In this case, making a negative with more information in it than the print paper can represent results in a better final print (albeit a more difficult one) than tailoring the negative so everything gets represented in the print without any manipulations.
Doremus
Darwin,
SLIMPT is done to “bleach” the latent image before you develop.
So it’s wildly different than reducing silver after it’s already been developed.
03 Nov 2019
Please excuse my ignorance, but what is/are "SLIMTs"? Is it a different way of bleaching prints or negs? What makes it different from ferricyanide/bromide beach solution?
I have also followed what Doremus outlines above (in the second paragraph) with good results, even though some of the negs are a PITA to print. I agree that applying Zone System principles a is much easier in large format.
Regards,
Darwin
In this case, making a negative with more information in it than the print paper can represent results in a better final print (albeit a more difficult one) than tailoring the negative so everything gets represented in the print without any manipulations.
BTW, many users of MF cameras with removable film backs will keep a couple loaded and designated for "Normal" development and then "Normal +" (for flat scenes) or "Normal -" (for contrasty scenes) .
Check out my experience with scanning films for David Wing, a Guggenheim Fellow.
https://richardman.photo/2019/10/the-negative-is-the-score/
But these old guys would checked the contrast range of the scene then exposed and developed accordingly.
But of course they would.. :O I actually tried to implement a contrast range measurement for my iOS app. I've been poking with it around to understand how much there is contrast in different scenarios.
I really would like to try overexposing / under-developing but the weather in Finland is so bad right now. 100% cloud coverage, low light, rain etc. I cannot come up with any ideas to shoot with this technique.
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