Overexposure question

[pinhole_dreamer]

I used a roll of Efke 127 - 100 ISO in an old Brownie Holiday. It was pretty bright that day...and needless to say that every shot was totally over exposed, meaning that when I go into the laundry room to make contact prints, I'm going to have a rather long time to expose the paper.

Question: Next time (yes, there will be a next time as I just like that old camera), on a pretty bright (cloudless) day, I would either a. use a much slower film if I can get it in the 127 format or b. judging from this roll of film (and if shot under the same lighting conditions with the same film I would then develop the film for a longer time.

Forgive me for being a bit rusty, but wouldn't I push the developing time then if over exposed? Or would I pull the film? And what is the time allowance for pushing/pulling film?

I'm kicking myself for turning in my photography book back to the college so many years ago...as it had a pretty decent chart in it, as I recall.

Either way, I'm trying to figure out what to do with this.

Thanks for the help and answers/advice.

Susan

 

[tkamiya]

If you over exposed the film, you'd under develop. (pull)
If you under exposed the film, you'd over develop. (push)
If you exposed just right, you'd march in place

I love old cameras too.... I'd just take my 120 films and stick'em into all kinds of different cameras from early to mid 1900s. Doesn't fit quite right but works!

 

[Jim Jones]

You can reduce the density of overexposed negatives somwhat in potassium ferrocyanide. You can tape an appropriate filter to the Brownie to correct the exposure.

 

[ic-racer]

If it is really overexposed (ie highlight detail falls over the shoulder) there is nothing you can do other than accept a poor print or re-shoot the scene.

You will know the negative is un-usable if it prints OK on the mid and low but the highlights are gray. Or if you print the highlights correctly, the mid values are too light.

If it was Tmax film, then it can accept quit a bit of exposure before it is unprintable and truly over-exposed.

 

[brucemuir]

You could also consider a ND filter if it's somewhat plausible to mount on a Brownie. (IDK, no experience...yet)

 

[pinhole_dreamer]

brucemuir: The Brownie Holiday has a mount for a filter to slip over the lens...but my mom seems to have lost those. *shrugs* I was thinking of using some colored/translucent plastic I have for quick fix filters. I don't mind experimenting with that.

ic-racer: I've not tried out any contact prints but what would be white (the snow) is beyond black...as in midnight black and the sky is as stripped of emulsion as can be. I'll see what I can do when I make contact prints from it (no enlarger - still saving). I'm pretty sure it was Efke that I was using at the time.

Jim: I'd rather go with adding a filter than delving deeper into the chemical side of things at the moment. Once I have an actual room I can use (with running water in a sink), I can start that.

tkamiya: Thank you! Now that you've explained/reminded me of the push/pull procedure, I can keep that in mind with future rolls of film if I end up doing this on purpose with my K1000!

 

[brucemuir]

What type filters did it use...series 6??

Those are all over the auction site for nickels and if you measure the front lens element you can probably find a slip-on adapter for them.

I once got an entire set of C/M color correction filters for a few dollars. It had somewhere around 25 filters included. ND filters are a little more scarce but a Polarizer would knock down 2-3 stops as well.

Might be worth pursuing considering how much you like the Brownie.
I've always wanted one.