Overexposure by 2 stops.. developing time change?

[peter k.]

Curious: .. Overexposure by 2 stops.. any real need to change developing time, if so by how much.
Normally develop Arista 400 shot @ 400, using D76, 1:1 for 9 min @ 68*
Background:
Blew it this morning trying to capture light, from the kitchen window that was hitting a potted plant siting on our wood stove. Overexposed by 2 stops, after focusing with ground glass, on a 2x3 baby speed, and did not reset F stop to proper exposure setting, as the light was shifting so quickly, we just wanted to get the shot. ;-).

 

[David Lyga]

As you expose less than the recommendation, the negative begins to lose (latent) density and contrast. This loss of contrast needs to be countered by developing longer. This longer development will slightly aid the lower densities, but not completely. The longer development primarily aids the higher densities, thus increasing overall contrast. But, with the lower densities so challenged, there will be a lowering of shadow detail. Sometimes this shadow detail is important to the photograph; sometimes not; For your two stops, try giving one third more development time.. - David Lyga

 

[Steve Goldstein]

Umm, David, he overexposed by two stops. I would think increasing development is the wrong direction.

Sorry, I don’t have a useful recommendation to offer.

 

[MattKing]

I think David missed the fact that the OP over-exposed the negative.
Tell us about the SBR (scene brightness range) and the nature (diffused or direct) of the light hitting the highlight and shadow areas of your scene.
Also, which Arista film?

 

[peter k.]

The scene was very bright, direct, early morning sun through window on plant.
Film is Arista ultra 400

 

[David Lyga]

I think David missed the fact that the OP over-exposed the negative.
Tell us about the SBR (scene brightness range) and the nature (diffused or direct) of the light hitting the highlight and shadow areas of your scene.
Also, which Arista film?

Yes, David Lyga 'the great' has fallen upon his face!!! When overexposing you are compacting detail into the image. This can do one of two things with contrast. There is a point when more exposure stops being contrast enhancing. With one stop over, you will probably gain a bit of contrast; with two stops, maybe the contrast will start becoming a bit less or at least leveling off. With some VERY high contrast films like Kodak ImageLink microfilm, overexposure quickly turns to compaction and loss of tonal differentiation. But with films like Tri-X there is a LOT of overexposure that the film can take and still give great tonal differentiation. Arista 400 will be within the realm of this Tri-X explanation. I might give just a bit (10% less) development in order to make that negative easier to print. To your advantage, You will NOT lack shadow detail with this overexposure. - David Lyga

 

[David Lyga]

Your 'sun scene' just might benefit from overexposure, as this give you an chance to capture the weak tonalities and cut down contrast as well. If the scene was really contrasty, simply give 25% less development. You still should have all detail within its proper place. - David Lyga

 

[koraks]

I agree with David. Given this combination of film and scene, develop a little less than normal.
BTW, I quite often use Foma/Arista 400 and always expose it at 200 or sometimes even lower. It's just not a 400 film to begin with, despite the box saying so.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Develop normally, the latitude of the film can handle it. I would not make a habit of your mistake. There are many more mistakes that are much more enjoyable.

 

[Chan Tran]

I also vote for develop normally. You may not overexpose by actual 2 stops.

 

[peter k.]

Thanks for the replies..
Hmmm.. in the past have normally shot Arista 400 @ 200 but today in a rush to get the shot we exposed for 400.
2 stops would be like shooting it @ 100.. Think will just try normal developing time and see what happens, mistakes can often lead one in a new direction. ;-)

 

[Dali]

I would process it as usual. I always overexpose 1 stop so in your case, it would mean to me +1 stop overexposure. Not a big deal with a 400 ASA film...

Sorry but I am not familiar with the x:x notation. By 1:1, do you mean 1+0 or 1+1?

 

[Doremus Scudder]

Develop normally. I have negatives that proof totally white at minimum time get get maximum black on the film rebate and that still print just fine.

Best,

Doremus

 

[peter k.]

Sorry but I am not familiar with the x:x notation. By 1:1, do you mean 1+0 or 1+1?

1 part water to 1 part D:76
Well having fun, went an shot Arista 400 @100 of a bird eating at the bird feeder, and developed them both together at the same time. Drying now, will see what asa 100 brings, with mistake and programmed ;-)

 

[Dali]

To me, 9mn for D76 1+1 looks a bit short, no?

 

[pentaxuser]

To me, 9mn for D76 1+1 looks a bit short, no?

I'd agree and certainly I wouldn't consider shortening the development time any more than 9 mins for ei 100.

pentaxuser