Yes, David Lyga 'the great' has fallen upon his face!!! When overexposing you are compacting detail into the image. This can do one of two things with contrast. There is a point when more exposure stops being contrast enhancing. With one stop over, you will probably gain a bit of contrast; with two stops, maybe the contrast will start becoming a bit less or at least leveling off. With some VERY high contrast films like Kodak ImageLink microfilm, overexposure quickly turns to compaction and loss of tonal differentiation. But with films like Tri-X there is a LOT of overexposure that the film can take and still give great tonal differentiation. Arista 400 will be within the realm of this Tri-X explanation. I might give just a bit (10% less) development in order to make that negative easier to print. To your advantage, You will NOT lack shadow detail with this overexposure. - David LygaI think David missed the fact that the OP over-exposed the negative.
Tell us about the SBR (scene brightness range) and the nature (diffused or direct) of the light hitting the highlight and shadow areas of your scene.
Also, which Arista film?
1 part water to 1 part D:76Sorry but I am not familiar with the x:x notation. By 1:1, do you mean 1+0 or 1+1?
I'd agree and certainly I wouldn't consider shortening the development time any more than 9 mins for ei 100.To me, 9mn for D76 1+1 looks a bit short, no?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?