Slowshooter
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Thanks bdial. No filter, as it's a compact camera. The dark areas were quite blue in my original scan.Probably #1, lack of shadow detail would generally be caused by not enough exposure. So, the sunny conditions might have caused the meter to under-expose. Or you may need to use a lower exposure index too. for example, rate it at 100 instead of 200.
Were you using a filter?
Thanks Matt. I read somewhere about development times, probably online. I'll upload a photo of the negatives tomorrow.We really can't tell much from a scan.
If you shared a backlit photo of thhe negatives themselves we might be able to tell more.
That being said, this looks like the result of the meter being fooled by the sky, and setting the exposure too low for the foreground.
By the way, I'm not where you got the idea tthat old film should have the development time reduced. Some times it is a good idea to increase the exposure for old film, which may result in a need to reduce the development a bit, but generally I would suggest that development be for the standard time.
Thanks Jim. I was being casual about it, just to see how the camera would perform. I knew SFX could be processed as an ordinary film but didn't expect it to have turned out so dark. Knowing that I was going to such a beautiful location, I should have used a new ordinary film and left the experiments for another day!SFX is a near-infrared film and is meant to used with an IR filter. Without one, it's just another b/w film. The XA is a great camera, but I'm not sure I'd use it with IR film. You could buy an oversized IR filter and hold it up to the lens when you shoot, but you'll need a tripod and use the cameras self timer.
Thanks pbromaghin. It was just the wrong film at the wrong time!The center-weighted metering on the XA-2 probably had a lot to do with it, since the center of the pic is very bright. I second Mr Appleyard in saying that the equipment used doesn't take advantage of the characteristics that make SFX special. It's a lot of work to try to get it right, but really fun when the magic happens.
Actually Jim, SFX 200 is quite interesting when you use it conventionally. Its extended red sensitivity can be put to good use, and its grain structure might satisfy those who complain about "modern" Tri-X not having the same character as Tri-X of days of old.
Here is a scan of the print I referred to above - 120 SFX 200 in a Mamiya 645 Super (IIRC). No fiter used. It would have been developed in HC-110, dil H.
It was entered in the 2009 Ilford APUG Competition:
View attachment 226345
There was no filter used.Did you use a Red filter [R23, R25, R29?]? or not?
That's a beautiful image Matt.Here is a scan of the print I referred to above - 120 SFX 200 in a Mamiya 645 Super (IIRC). No fiter used. It would have been developed in HC-110, dil H.
It was entered in the 2009 Ilford APUG Competition:
View attachment 226345
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