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Over fixing film

guitstik

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Jun 19, 2010
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Eads TN.
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I mixed up a batch of old Ilford Rapid fixer last week and I think that I mixed it up 1:4 but now I am having second thoughts about if I did or not. What I am thinking is that I mixed it 1:3 instead of the called for mix. The fix is from 03 and I think it should still be good except for some particles floating around in it. I heated the mixed solution to 100F for about half an hour sitting in a bath of hot water to get everything to re-constitute.

The big question tho is did I over fix or not and will it hurt?
 
Does the film look and print good? Then don't sweat over it. There is no such thing as over fix. It's under fix that you should worry about. If you are certain, that you mixed 1:3, then add some water to it, do a leader test and forget about this whole incident.
 
The first and only batch that I used the fixer on was my first attempt at Caffenol-C and that was a total failure due to incorrect coffee, soda and vit-c (there was a url link here which no longer exists). I have the correct stuff now and I want to be sure that the fixer is good. As to the mix, I am not sure if i mixed 1:4 or 1:3. Explain the leader test to me as I am unsure how that works.
 
If your fix is too strong, and you fix too long, then washing has to be extended in order to wash out the fixer and byproducts.

Seven year old fixer that has had particles floating in it and has been heated to 100 F may very well be shot.

The "leader test" just means dropping a drop of fixer on an undeveloped film and leaving it there for 30 seconds. Then immerse the scrap of film in the fixer and time how long it takes before you can no longer tell where the drop was (i.e. the film is no longer milky and is fully cleared). If that time is reasonable (around one minute?), your total fixing time should be twice that for traditional films, and up to three times that for T-grain films.
 
For leader test you drop a film leader or a small piece of film into the fixer and measure how long it takes for the film to become clear. You multiply that time by 2 and that makes your fixing time for that film.

Edit: Matt's typing quicker than me. Just follow his procedure ;-)
 
Can you do that in the light or is it strictly darkroom?
 
In the light is fine!
 
I have read that over-fixing can actually lead to reduced density in the negative -- that the key is to fix long enough to neutralize the developer in/on the film, but not so long that the fixer attacks the image on the film.
 
Extreme over fixing can bleach film, off by a couple of minutes with a good rinse should not present a problem.
 
I rinsed the film for 10min after I fixed with constant flow. I think that the clear film was a result of the developer being wrong. I fixed the film for 5min following the instructions on the bottle but I may shorten it to about 3min the next time my only concern is the stuff floating around in it.
 
Get some new fixer. It's not worth skimping on if you want the negatives to last.
 
Which film - traditional or "T-grain"?

Try the "leader test" before you develop your next film. Use the results as a guide.

I expect that you have read through this, or printed instructions, but here is a link anyways:

http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/2006130218312091.pdf
 
Way too long fixing times solves a bit of silver, what you can see fist in the shadows. But that need an hour fixing or so.
 
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