outdated film and paper

One thing I've noticed as interesting, and this may only be perception, but I used some Tri-X a while ago that expired in 1994. They were processed in Pyrocat-HD and came out with a fair amount of base fog. I gave the film one stop more exposure to overcome some of it, and held back development some. This yielded a better negative.
But the grain was substantially larger than fresh Tri-X, used at an exposure index of 200. Some of that is probably down to the new formulation of Tri-X, but the difference was REALLY tangible. I don't have the scans here to show you (from prints). Now I don't really mind grain, so it didn't really matter, but one thing that made it difficult to live with was that the printing became less intuitive due to the base fog. With crisp and clean negatives I can judge pretty quickly by looking at the negative, what exposure I need in the enlarger to get a decent starting point print. With the base fog ones it was much more difficult, and it threw me off in printing the good ones a little bit too.
I've been using a lot of outdated film and paper in the past, but I think I'm about to turn a corner and start shooting fresh all the time. I'm at a point where I want no surprises, and above all - consistency.

So I've started giving away some photo paper to those that need them, and may start getting rid of some old film stock too, just to be able to focus on my skills more and not have to fight inconsistencies and surprises. It's a two edged sword. I won't be able to shoot as much, but I think quality over quantity will have to prevail.

I recently bought a bunch of expired paper from the 1940s on ebay. I got some Defender Velour Black (1945,46), Haloid Halobrome (1947), Ansco Indiantone (unknown date), Kodak Illustrator's Special (1949), and Kodak Azo (1945). I haven't had much time to test the papers but I have gotten excellent results with Ansco Indiatone developed for 3 minutes in Ansco 130 1:1 with 175ml of Formulary TAF-1 Print Developer Improver (Benzotriazole). The TAF-1 was able to eliminate most of the fog, even at the 3 minute developing time. Toning Indiatone in Ilford Selenium produces the most interesting split tones (red-brown shadows, blue-green midtones, and cream highlights).

I love outdated stuff the problem I find is people are paying fresh price for it on eBay.
I don't think freezing is your problem with TriX I had some frozen for most of 20 years and no fogging at all, the one problem was the lab's equipment's rollers damaged the emultion.I have a nother roll I will tank process. I give short warm up time sometimes as short as a couple hours.
To be sure call or Email Kodak
Jay

I still have quite a bit of Verichrome PAN and APX 25 that is out of date but as it was chilled (and then frozen) from when it was in date it's still good. When it comes to paper as soon as it shows signs of aging it goes in the bin. I had some Forte Polygrade that I left lying in my darkroom one summer (it gets very hot in my darkroom in summer). When I used it in the winter it was shot. Veiled hightlights that even Benzotriazole would not cure. I now keep my paper in the dark in a room with no heating that stays cool even in the summer.

Once in awhile I'll get outdated film or paper (sometimes free). Most of the time they seem to work.

Jeff

I've read of Rodinal being low fog. Worth a shot on a batch of '98 exp. Tri-X in 120?

I use a stash of 30 years or so old motion picture short ends and re-cans, Plus-X, Double-X and FP4's. In the beggining there were several full cans of 4X (ASA 500)'s, but they did not keep too long.
When developed in D-76, the fog level is high specially Double-X(ASA 250). In Microdol-X, it is not too bad, but you loose a stop of speed. For the lower fog level, I put a tablet of Kodak Anti-Fog No.1 (30 mg of Benzotriazole) per 1L of developer. The negs come out clean and easy to print, but the price, you loose another stop of speed. If you develop in T-Max developer with Benzo, you can more or less (cannot be more could be less) keep the box speed and low fog level. The catch, bigger grain but looks sharper.
All the films I use ware kept in the original can (400 feet) in the basement more or less constant at 15 C and dry. I have not noticed any difference of the image quality at least last ten or fifteen years of use. Otherwise the film is very mutch stabilized. I still have several cases of them, and the way things go, I will expire way before they do. May be I should start takeing a tablet of benzo a day. At least it could clear up my foggy memories.

I have an unopened 50-sheet box of 4x5 Tri-X on my shelf. The expiration date is October, 2007. I have no doubt it will be fine. I will use it rather than give it away or toss it. Would I use it to test a new film/developer combination that I might use for the next 10 years? No, but I will use it with my regular developer(s) just the way I have in the past.

If I'm making prints, I want everything in date unless it's a stock from my freezer that I've used consistently. Then a little past-date is okay. I never buy outdated paper. Why waste time and chemicals on something that may not perform or match past performances from the same brand?

Peter Gomena