Out of the blue...

[jernejk]

I was never really interested in LF, never considered it, but then a few days ago I was looking at some LF photos with great tonality and BAM... i was in love.
Or, to put it in a different way, "lens buying addiction" struck me in an unusual way

I know very little in LF so I don't really know where to start. I've read a few threads and articles, but still don't have a complete picture.

So first, what I think I might shoot with LF:
- studio work / still life, probably most of the time
- occasional landscape / cityscape

And in general:
- I like my equipment to be light and portable (i know, LF comes with a penalty, but still)
- I'm cheap (since photography is just a hobby I don't want to spend more than I need); but still, I don't have enough money to buy cheap (and buy twice)
- I know how to develop BW film, but don't know what I really need for LF development
- I'm in no hurry. If I got my LF kit by the end of this year I'm ok. So I can fish for good opportunities.

What I don't know is what I really need:
- well, the camera obviously, but what kind? This looks fabulous, but monorails don't seem that bad either
- what usually comes with camera and what I need beside it (film holders, lens holders, ground glass??)
- Lens obviously. My "intended use" calls for more than one, right? Maybe start with something normal-wide? But what?

So please help me assemble my LF wish list, so I know what to look for

 

[Sirius Glass]

For portability, handheld, and cheap consider a Pacemaker Speed Graphic. Focus by scale, range finder or ground glass. Use the focal plane shutter or the lens shutter.
For portraits a Graflex.
Both have cloth focal plane shutters which will allow you to use barrel lenses in the future.
If you later decide to sell them and get a different LF camera, you will be able to get your money back.
Check out www.graflex.org and http://www.jolommen.nl/ [on the left side select "the World of Graflex"]

Steve

 

[Jim Jones]

When buying used large format cameras, they may rarely come as a complete outfit, or more often as just a camera with or without a lens. Since swapping lenses between different styles and brands of LF cameras is relatively easy, it often has been done. Your first purchase should be a good book (or several) on LF photography. If you follow Steve's good advice and start with a Pacemaker Speed Graphic, also look for a copy of Graphic Graflex Photography by Morgan and Morgan, preferably 11th edition or later which covers the top rangefinder models of the Pacemaker series. The 8th edition covers only the side rangefinder Pacemaker. Earlier editions cover the Anniversary model Speed Graphics which aren't as versatile as the Pacemaker series.

There are a great variety of view cameras. For several decades I used a Burke & James flatbed. Newer cameras would have been nicer to use, but had little other advantages over the basic design of a hundred years ago. The old flatbed and newer field cameras are more compact than monorail designs, but often not quite as versatile. One important consideration (to me) is the type of lensboards my cameras use. Most use flat wooden or metal boards that are easy to make or improvise. The Pacemaker uses a board with a turned-down lip that serves as a light trap. These are harder to duplicate, but an internal light trap is easy to improvise and quite effective. Over many years I've accumulated several view and press cameras, and most use the same style board. This is a great convenience in swapping lenses between cameras.

Don't worry too much about purchasing the ideal camera the first time. We can advise you based on our experience, but it's your own experience that is most valuable. You may not want to stop with only one LF camera. Over many decades I've accumulated too many. They each have their uses, though. If you spend lots of time checking the prices of cameras of interest that actually sold on ebay, you'll be prepared for the bargains that do still occur.

Feel free to ask questions. APUG has some very capable photographers and technicians. You can learn more here than I learned in a decade or two in the "good old days."

 

[markbarendt]

If you are in a local camera club let people know you're interested. I got lucky this way and got a CC-400 for $100 complete with lens, holders, cable releases, filters, and 50-sheets of film.

This may sound counter intuitive but bigger can be cheaper in the long run.

With my 4x5 contact prints are fun but we are talking postcard size prints, I needed another enlarger to make reasonable size prints.

5x7 is a bit better in this regard a more usable contact print size but still limited.

8x10 and larger cameras can contact print large enough to eliminate the need for enlargement in the grand majority of cases.

If I had it to do over again I'd try and start with 8x10 just to be able to contact print. (Not that I'd turn down my $100 deal on a complete 4x5 kit.)

 

[keithwms]

Jernejk, my best advice is to borrow from someone else and see how it feels, or to make a small investment in a complete press camera kit, e.g. a 4x5 crown graphic or such, or a wooden beauty like the Poco. In fact, quite a few members near you can probably loan or rent something to you if you wish. A complete press camera kit could probably be had for ~$300, including the camera, a lens, and some holders. I have scored various 5x7 and 8x10 Poco kits for roughly that price; they were "fixer uppers" but after a bit of bellows patching and such, I had them ready in no time.

In my opinion, it's a great time to try LF, even if it's "just" 4x5. There are people leaving LF and there is great equipment available. Many excellent kinds of film and paper are still readily available. And you may well find that LF benefits your photographic vision- for some people, that is the case. I am a multi-format guy: I shoot everything and anything, as the mood dictates. But I definitely saw some benefit from LF.

 

[Discoman]

Also, consider browsing through largeformatphotography.info
They have a lot of useful I formation, articles, etc that will be of great help.

 

[jernejk]

First, thanks to all for your kind help!

For portability, handheld, and cheap consider a Pacemaker Speed Graphic. Focus by scale, range finder or ground glass. Use the focal plane shutter or the lens shutter.
For portraits a Graflex.

I see I can get really a lot value for money here. A cheap "test run", so to speak; and I could even get a 120 film holder, which might be good for experimenting and learning!
Question: can lens from that camera be reused if I decide to move on and how easy it is to mount non-standard lenses?

Your first purchase should be a good book (or several) on LF photography.

Noted

This may sound counter intuitive but bigger can be cheaper in the long run.
8x10 and larger cameras can contact print large enough to eliminate the need for enlargement in the grand majority of cases.

As appealing as this sounds I'll stick to 4x5 for now. My back really isn't too happy about carrying too much weight...

 

[Brian C. Miller]

Lenses on LF cameras are mounted on lens boards. These can be either a real piece of wood, or a metal plate. The lenses simply fit through a hole, and a retaining ring is screwed down to lock the lens in place.

As for non-standard lenses, well, there really isn't anything as a "standard" lens. Seriously, anything that can be attached to a lens board is fair game. You name it, it's been on a LF camera. Magnifying lenses, projector lenses, various pinhole or zone plates, whatever.

My recommendation is simple: buy something that's cheap and has good bellows. Then get a decent lens. Don't worry about the best lens, just something that works OK. For a camera, the Calumet Orbit is really a good deal. These are cheap, and even Ansel Adams used one. Seriously, there's a video on YouTube showing him carting one on a photo shoot. Next get any lens, 135mm to 210mm, which doesn't have busted glass and the shutter works well, or at least doesn't stick. Now you've spent, oh, $250? A few holders, film, and you're set.

The first LF camera I bought was a Graflex Super Graphic. I still have it, and it makes great photos. With the "crappy" 135mm Wollensack Optar, I can count bicycle spokes at two blocks away. No, I don't know the line pairs per millimeter, and I don't care. The system works well enough, and I can fold it up and easily take it on the back of my folding bicycle.

4x5 enlargers are cheap or free, so don't worry about that. They'll also usually come already set up for work, so no problems there. Also, the contact print size of 4x5 is pretty decent. Get something and have some fun.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Question: can lens from that camera be reused if I decide to move on and how easy it is to mount non-standard lenses?

That is the beauty of buy a 4"x5" camera like the Graflex or Speed Graphic over cameras that do not have a focal plane shutter. While all the LF cameras can mount non-standard lenses, the cameras that have focal plane shutters can also take non-standard barrel lenses. Those are the lenses without shutters. Therefore any lens can be potentially mounted; for example, a lens from a lantern slide projector can be used on a Graflex or Speed Graphic.

With the Graflex or Speed Graphic, I have a handheld camera that can be tripod mounted and use non-standard shuttered and barrel lenses.

Bring on more questions.

Steve