Osram BCS44 Flash

[Ka]

I recently purchased an Osram BCS44 Flash in a vintage-ish shoppe for a song.

Has anyone any experience or opinions about this unit?

Also, Michael wrote in a forum referencing a Hasselblad outfit, "I used one for weddings for years but you are right it is quite heavy hand held, especially with a Metz 60CT added."

What is it about the Metz 60CT which is so special teamed with Hassy's? I have heard this now from several well-seasoned photographers.



Thanks, Ka

 

[blansky]

Karen wrote,

What is it about the Metz 60CT which is so special teamed with Hassy's? I have heard this now from several well-seasoned photographers

When I bought mine it was probably the best or one of the best portable flashes on the market, and the battery had a good life etc.

Later Hasselblad with the 503 made it so it could be used "automatically" (TTL) with a special attachment on the flash. No more guessinig on the exposure. However I didn't have a 503, just a 500cm.

Now probably there are a lot of then like Quantum, Lumedyne etc that are TTL.


Michael

 

[Ka]

Michael,
Which do you think would work best for my 500CM?

Ka

 

[blansky]

Karen, it depends on what you want to do. I believe that Hasselblad or MEtz has an add on electronic eye that you can put on a 500cm to have TTL.

Like I said most companies now probably have the same thing.

My only experience is with Metz 60CT. which I used for weddings(yuch). I didn't have TTL and it worked just fine, although not as idiot proof.

I'm now looking into a Lumydyne system for a portable outdoor stobe which has far more power than the Metz. But the Metz was fine for an on camera flash.

My goal is to use it as a mainlight and balance the available light to it. Not to use it on camera.

Michael

 

[Ed Sukach]

I don't think any adapter can be added to the 500 (plain) Hasselblads for TTL - note - that is (T)hrough (T)he (L)ens flash capabilities. If there was, it would have to be installed inside the camera, behind the lens.

I have the Hasselblad "ProFlash" which is a Metz CT4 with a built-in SCA adapter. SCA Adapters for the Hasselblad built-in flash sensor are available for a wide variety of Metz and other Flashes - SunPak, etc.

TTL flash is good, but the "ordinary" thyristor-controlled "automatic" flash units are, really, not that far behind.

 

[blansky]

Ed, you're right. The proflash with the sca adaptor is the thing I was refering to and it's not TTL.

I've been out of the loop for a while since I almost never use on camera flash any more.



Michael

 

[Ka]

When not in studio, I try to avoid on-camera flash, as I always seem to get underexposed candids. It's just not my forte. But I should like to "get it".

I also have a Nikon SB-28 and a Sunpak Auto 544 Thyristor Flash.... when those things are in use , I use a Stroboframe.

Ka

 

[blansky]

Karen,

Why are your candids underexposed. What exactly are you using.

Like I say, I'm kind of out of the loop. I would think that the Nikon SB-28 may not have enough power or enough battery life and I don't know about the Sun.

The reason I used the Metz was because it had a lot of power and a lot of flashes per battery. I also carried two extra "dry fit" batteries.

But underexposed is not good, so I would investigate what people are using for candids these days and why. There must be wedding sites on the net that have good photographers using the site.

The other thing I might do is look for wedding photographers personal websites, on the web and email them and ask what they use and why. Stay away from wannabees and amateurs because they may just confuse the issue. Try for pros that work every weekend, are using medium format, and even Hasselblads, and ask them about their strobes. Tell them what you do, and ask them about alternatives because they may have owned them at one time and discarded them.


Michael

 

[Ed Sukach]

Ed, you're right. The proflash with the sca adaptor is the thing I was refering to and it's not TTL.

Huh? The Proflash #4504 (Hasselblad Cat. # 55034 - I just looked -) *IS* "Through the Lens".

I love the way this thing is set up. Although measuring light through the lens, one can control "fill-in-flash" ratios *extremely* simply - there is a separate, independent ISO film speed setting for the flash itself. I've photographed models "against the sunset", metering for the usual reflective reading and setting the Proflash to meter for the TTL reading on the model in the center of the frame. Lo and behold! - BOTH model AND sunset properly exposed!

Which reminds me - I've got to do more of this work in the near future...

 

[Ka]

Michael,

Usually, in a candid-doing, non-setup shooting... at weddings/events, I run around capturing the moment with my Nikon N90S with SB-28 with Photoflex balloony reflectory thingy on Stroboframe. I suspect my problem's the Photoflex soften-up-the-harsh-bloody-light thing. But all that stuff is TTL and the sensor is NOT obstructed... so, I don't understand the why.

I'm generally set at f/5.6 at 1/30th.

The thing is, most of my PPS colleagues are full-time wedding/portrait shooters. I'm the odd fineart girl. The above recipe is their advice, and I suppose I'll just go over with my bits and have my hand held for an hour while I popp off a couple rolls of (recorded in my sketchbook of photo information) test shots.

I'll look up the Proflash, Ed. Are you saying it functions TTL on a 500CM? Perhaps I should just get an additional Hassy body to accomodate my TTL needs: 503somethingerother.

Thanks for your lovely attention. You've all been more than helpful to me.

Ka

 

[blansky]

Karen,

Although I not positive about this, it for some reason sounds strange.

In the first place, 1/30th at 5.6 is not too ideal for hand held mingling around. I would never shoot this stuff (remember weddings you can't screw up) with less than 1/60th. I think I shot my stuff at 1/125. I'm not saying that you can't hand hold 1/30 or even 1/15th it's just that for consistancy and covering your butt, I don't think it's a good idea.

As for shooting 5/6, I don't like this depth of field either. For hurry up grab shots etc, that does not leave much of a margin for error in focusing.

It sounds to me like you need a more powerful flash. Added to this is the light loss from the softening device and it's seems to me to be a problem

With my Hasselblad and Metz I shot all the stuff at 125 at 8/12 or 11.

The only other thing is I would maybe try is fudge the ASA to try to get better exposure (say 100 down to 50).It seems that if you are underexposed then the sensor is not reading correctly. The problem now is that you are going to be worse off in the 5/6 at 1/30 department.

A lot of wedding shooters are now shooting ASA 400 instead of the 80 or 100 that we shot. The grain has improved and how many people order bigger that 8x10 anyway. That may help in the 1/30 at 5.6 department, giving you 2 extra stops to work with.


Michael McBlane

 

[glbeas]

Michael,

Usually, in a candid-doing, non-setup shooting... at weddings/events, I run around capturing the moment with my Nikon N90S with SB-28 with Photoflex balloony reflectory thingy on Stroboframe. I suspect my problem's the Photoflex soften-up-the-harsh-bloody-light thing. But all that stuff is TTL and the sensor is NOT obstructed... so, I don't understand the why.

I'm generally set at f/5.6 at 1/30th.

Ka

You're probably quite right about the Photoflex being the culprit. It may be it's absorbing so much of the light the flash simply runs out of power before it can get a proper exposure. I'd follow Blanskys advice and try faster film, first doing a bracket test in conditions similar to what you will actually be working in and see what the actual speed you should set the system to for optimal exposure. Be aware that the settings on some equipment is barely a good guide for good results, many flash units I've used have to be derated a stop or so to get good results because the manufactures tended to over rate the power of the flash to make a better sell. They would only work at the advertised power in a small white room that would bounce the light back from many directions. When working a large room the light goes away big time, in cave flash photography I've always had to open two stops from the rated settings to get good negs, even then it wouldn't do much in a large chamber even with multiple flashes.

 

[Ka]

Thanks all. I'll give it a go.
... you know, I should really Know this in and out by now.

 

[blansky]

Karen, there are so many things to know that often you don't learn them until you have a problem.

I know stuff because at one time or another I have screwed up in every way imaginable and I still have a lot to learn.

Michael

 

[Ed Sukach]

I'll look up the Proflash, Ed. Are you saying it functions TTL on a 500CM? Perhaps I should just get an additional Hassy body to accomodate my TTL needs: 503somethingerother.

No, it will not function as TTL with the 500 or 501. THe 503Cx - Cxi has the necessary internal sensor and circuitry.
I have two 503Cx bodies.

Actually - I've given it more thought - the Proflash is properly OTF - Off The Film - flash. The internal sensor is aimed at the film itself, and reflected light from the film is read to turn the flash off when the proper amount is received.

The "Proflash 4504" has been discontinued - replaced by another "automatic" flash unit - "40 ..." something? It is more "automatic" and consequently less adjustable and flexible.

I'll take the "old" Proflash - any day.

In fact - if I had to do it over again - I go for a Metz CT-4 or larger - with the SCA adapter. That would effectively duplicate the Proflash configuration.

 

[Ed Sukach]

I was just happened'na think...

Sorry, the synapses in the old grey matter do not seem to be firing very efficiently today... I've been printing RA-4 color all day... might serve as an excuse?

One other advantage to going with a large Metz flash... all that is needed to provide TTL or OTF flash with another camera's system, say a Nikon N-90, is the proper SCA adapter .., and I'm sure Metz makes them for all the Nikons, as well as the Hasselblads.

The Proflash is specifically dedicated to the Hasselblad... there is no option of using another adapter ... but I have used it as a manual and thyristor-controlled flash unit with my Olympus OM-4.

Come to think of it, there is another neat feature about the Metz - I have the AC adapter - if I run out of battery power I can just plug it into a household outlet.

 

[Ka]

Thanks.

You give excellent advise.

ka

 

[cameradaddy]

OSRAM BCS44 INSTRUCTIONS OR MANUAL NEEDED

Hi, Can anyone E mail me a photo jpeg of the instructions that came with the Osram BCS44 flash unit. I recently purchased a like new unit but the instructions were missing. I saw KA had purchased this flash and I hope he might have the instructions for it. Send replys to: tferko243700MI@comcast.net Thanks, Tom

 

[jjf]

KA, Just happened to read this when looking for osram info, I also have that same flash, I do have the manual for it.
jjf new to the forum