Opemus 6 Standard Enlarger

[BMbikerider]

I have recently acquired (free) one of the middle of the range Opemus enlargers complete with a load of other bits and pieces, lenses masking frames etc. The enlarger has a flexible lead for assisting the focus when using a grain magnifyer without dislocating a shoulder. The down side is, the flexible lead is connected to the focusing knob on the left hand side. As I am naturally right handed I would like it to work from the right side as my darkroom layout is set up for my style of work, but cannot see how to swap the sides. There is only one focussing knob which is on the left. No does there seem to be any retaing screws and I cannot feel any rack at the rear of the guide rails which would be used to move the bellows up or down

Has anyone any idea if it can be done and if so how.

Thanks in advance

 

[AgX]

I only know this model from photos.
Looking at two photos I assume that the traverse between the two rods could be rotated around its center axis, so that the focusing gear would then be at the right side.
However there might be an interferecec with the stud originally on the right side of the traverse, which acts as arrest for the lens stage at zero angle position. Maybe though this stud still acts as arrest then in upper position on the left side. Maybe it must be modified.
But seen the overal design, I would be likely that such twisting is intended by design and it may work without any modification.

 

[R.Gould]

I have a Opemus 6, but not the fine focus knob, so I don't have your answer, but the importers of these enlargers were RK photographic, and they may have an answer, could be worth contacting them, if anyone knows it would be the good folks at RK, sorry, can't give you a link,

Richard

 

[BMbikerider]

Thanks Richard. The fine focus flexible knob is a real bonus. It is so sensitive to any movement that getting the exact point of focus is really easy but, I would feel more comfortable with it on the right hand side.
I know of RK photographic and on their website they do have numerous spares and bits and pieces for the Opemus models so as you suggest I will give them a call.
On another Opemus topic, the largest print I can comfortably make is a 9.5x12, Anything above 12x16 would be better, have you ever thought of wall mounting the column and lens, if so how did you go about it?

 

[R.Gould]

Thanks Richard. The fine focus flexible knob is a real bonus. It is so sensitive to any movement that getting the exact point of focus is really easy but, I would feel more comfortable with it on the right hand side.
I know of RK photographic and on their website they do have numerous spares and bits and pieces for the Opemus models so as you suggest I will give them a call.
On another Opemus topic, the largest print I can comfortably make is a 9.5x12, Anything above 12x16 would be better, have you ever thought of wall mounting the column and lens, if so how did you go about it?

I don't thoink it would be a problem, I can easily do 12/16 on mine, but when I bought it new a lot of years ago I had a opemus 35mm enlarger, and I decided to start using MF, so I bought the opemus 6, standard, but the 35mm model was the top of the range, and I swaped the colum from the 35mm to the 6, they were the same just the shorter colum, and so with the longer colum I can print 6645/66 to 20/16 and 35mm to 12/16, they are well made and well thought out enlargers and will las a lifetime of hard use
Richard

 

[BMbikerider]

Nice idea Richard but having spoken to TK they have no spares available and passed me onto Mr Cad who also cannot help. I may try to fabricate a wall mounting platform which won't be easy because of the sloping column. Just how much longer than the Opemus 6 column is the one from the 35mm? This will give me an idea what I am looking to make.

I know about the column reversing trick to project onto the floor, or a shelf lower than my work bench, but to do that would be a major disruption to the darkroom.

 

[R.Gould]

Ig is quite a bit bigger, I have never measured it, but I can easily get 12x16 from 35mm with it with room to spare, I know that RK bought all the meopta spares and enlargers when Meopta stooped making them, so if they can't help you then no one can, they size thing has never been a problem for me as 99% of my prints are 9 1/2 by 12, I have for many years liked the idea of smaller prints, but when I first got the enlarger I would print up to 20x16 from MF, and that was why I changed the colom, I can't think of anywhere you would get a colum, unless you can find a junker that you can get the colum of of, you could try googling opemus 6 and see if that brings up anything, cood luck with your search, one other suggestion, that I used on a old durst that \\i had before the Opemus was to make some sort of extension out of a tube or wood, ( I used an old snooker cue) which would give you the extra height, as long as you don't need small prints as you would gain the height but lose the small prints
Richard

 

[AgX]

The topic of this thread was turning that enlarger from left-hand to right-hand operation.
Seemingly no one is interested in this at all...

 

[MattKing]

I've got the opposite problem - I'm left handed, and my Omega D6 focuses on the right.
My solution is to arrange my enlarger so I can work from both the front and the (right) side. It isn't ideal, but it definitely helps

 

[Michael L.]

The manual (to be found at http://dedius.free.fr/public/Photo/MEOPTA/ENLARGERS/NOTICES/opemus-6-en.pdf) doesn't seem to mention any possibility of turning the enlarger from left-hand to right-hand operation.
This doesn't necessarily mean that it is impossible. Good luck with trying!
The flexible lead is listed in the manual's catalog section (item #43 "Arbre flexible", part no. 392 821 550 106).

 

[BMbikerider]

I have the manual that is for the enlarger and i cannot see anything either. When I spoke to RK Photography in UK this afternoon they thought it may be possible and will get back to me in the morning. I have had a bit of an experiment with the enlarger reversed temporarily and \I would have to make a support some 9" higher than the baseboard to get a 12x16 print with a bit left over. Something to mull over after Christmas. If push came to shove, I could still use my LPL7700 colour enlarger which will print up to 20x16 and a little bit more; but the light output when the lens is stopped down a 2 or 3 clicks, means the exposures are heading towards minutes, not seconds.

 

[John Koehrer]

I've had more than one enlarger that used friction drive for focus., that could be why you don't feel gears on it.

If the bottom stop on the focus can be removed, would it be possible to simply run the focus down & off the rails and then turn it bottom up?

 

[AgX]

see my post #2

 

[Martin Rickards]

On the subject of Opemus enlargers, I too have the one with the shorter column. Moreover my B&W version arrived with no filter drawer. This wasn't really of concern, as I had the colour head ready to attach. One thing I have noticed though is, even at the shorter maximum copy size for 35 mm, focusing is very tight and the bellows need to be tightly compressed. Were the column longer, I'm not sure that focusing would be achieved (and I remembered to mount the lens panel with the dome upwards!).

 

[Jojje]

I had a long look at my Opemus 6, which luckily is quite lightweight, (but my Kodak Advance is flyweight..) and I've never noticed it has possibility to shift the lens plane besides tilt! Anyhow, I think it is possible to turn the thing including the friction focusing mechanism 180 degrees. Unscrew some screws and find out. If it doesn't work - well, it is good for brains to use both hands!

 

[AgX]

You mean twisting the whole lens stage? That would of course exclude from the start any problem with that arresting stud (if there is). I just thought of twisting that traverse between the rods.

 

[Jojje]

"Traverse" that's the thing! - easily removed as I can see.

 

[John Koehrer]

, have you ever thought of wall mounting the column and lens, if so how did you go about it?

I've mounted an Omega B22 XL on a "wall" mount before. Actually used a door from a big box store & fabricated a mount and adjustable shelves
on it. Everything was squared to the door and never had an alignment problem.
The advantage to me was since I was renting I didn't want to mess up the wall beyond a couple of small holes. Yay for spackle!

 

[John Koehrer]

I only know this model from photos.
Looking at two photos I assume that the traverse between the two rods could be rotated around its center axis, so that the focusing gear would then be at the right side.
However there might be an interferecec with the stud originally on the right side of the traverse, which acts as arrest for the lens stage at zero angle position. Maybe though this stud still acts as arrest then in upper position on the left side. Maybe it must be modified.
But seen the overal design, I would be likely that such twisting is intended by design and it may work without any modification.

Ooops, Just my misunderstanding the terms you used.
Great minds think alike

 

[BMbikerider]

Since my last post,I have acquired 2 quite robust 90 degreee angle brackets and a piece of 5mm Aluminum plate for a support between the two brackets onto which I can mount the base of the column. I can then attach a bracing strut to the top of the column to minimise or even hopefully kill any shake. This bracing strut would have a slot created at the end away from the wall which would allow me to adjust the enlarger head so that it is absolutely 100% verticle.

I have looked at the focussing stage and it would appear that to change sides with the focussing knob will be neigh well impossible as it appears to be firmly (permenantly) attached to the bellows. I will just have to learn to live with the focussing knob being on the 'wrong' side.

 

[AgX]

As I said, not twisting the lens plate, but only the traverse carrying the lens plate.

 

[John Koehrer]

AGX is referring to the black section at the bottom of the focusing rails. If it's removable, flip it over which will put the knob on the right.

 

[BMbikerider]

No it isn't removable it is all integral.

However having a eureka moment about raising the head. I have a friend who is an engineer and will turn a piece of steel rod to the same internal diameter as the column and with a slieve on the bottom it will be possible to add about 4" to the height of the head, which whilst not quite enough for 12x16, it will make larger images than possible at present. The focussing bellows will just be able to accomodate this extension too.