Oops. Tri-X @ 12,500

Hi Guys-

I had set out to shoot some Tri-X @3200. My exposure was supposed to be 1/30 f4 for the whole roll. The camera ended up being set at 1/125 f3.5 for the whole roll. I figure that I pretty much exposed the film as if it were ISO 12500. I have never pushed Tri-X THIS much. Now that I am home and figured out that I did this, what developer would any of you recommend. I have D-76, X-Tol, and T-Max developer at my disposal but would certainly be willing to pick up any developer that would allow the film to still be pretty usable.

Patrick

I haven't tried pushing Tri-X that far. You might want to use a split developer.

From trying to work with TMax 400 at 3200 and 6400, what I found out is that there just needs to be a certain amount of light to make the film work. You'll only get the very top bright spots, and that's it. But do go ahead and develop it, because you never really know what's on the roll!

maybe get hold of some rodinal (its cheap and last forever) and try stand developing it for 2 hours. that will bring out any detail on your film.

A quick thought, how about shoot the whole roll again in normal condition? ;-)

From some stuff that I had found on the web, I think Rodinal and stand development may work best....I wish I could re-shoot it but it was a concert

What would I use for a development time Michael?

Would it be possible to re-shoot a test roll in similar conditions (say indoor in your house), and test what is being proposed (ie Xtol 1+3)?

zsas said:

Would it be possible to re-shoot a test roll in similar conditions (say indoor in your house), and test what is being proposed (ie Xtol 1+3)?

Click to expand...

You could just shoot a few frames and snip that part of the film off in the darkroom, saving the rest of the roll.

Since the pictures are so worth it to me, I'll probably attempt to run a test.

E. von Hoegh said:

You could just shoot a few frames and snip that part of the film off in the darkroom, saving the rest of the roll.

Click to expand...

Even better!

This is a great thread! Sorry it happened to you! I hope you post updates and hopefully scans, as the potential to turn this into a teaching experience is huge!

This is what I read and copied somewhere:

Tri-X 400 in Rodinal 1+50, 20°C, agitate 5x at the beginning and then 5x all 5 minutes

@12800: 51 minutes

But I did not try it out so far!

Here is an example of Arista Premium 400 (reputedly Tri-X) as shot indoors at Boston TD Garden
1/125
f/4.5

This was developed in Adox Adonal (Original Rodinal formula) 1:100 stand for 70 minutes.

I'm not sure what the lighting was at your concert. Probably not as much light but maybe comparable. I estimated I was going for something between 6400 and 12000 -- basically just trying to get anything at all.

Image: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7447315/celts_125-0008.jpg

Good luck!

emayoh said:

Here is an example of Arista Premium 400 (reputedly Tri-X) as shot indoors at Boston TD Garden
1/125
f/4.5

This was developed in Adox Adonal (Original Rodinal formula) 1:100 stand for 70 minutes.

I'm not sure what the lighting was at your concert. Probably not as much light but maybe comparable. I estimated I was going for something between 6400 and 12000 -- basically just trying to get anything at all.

Image: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7447315/celts_125-0008.jpg

Good luck!

Click to expand...

That's pretty damn good!

patrick

get some sprint film developer, its good-stuff.
use their push processing recommendations
4 stops is +4, since yours is 5 stops, you might
email and ask what they recommend, i would do +6 to get something on the film
better too much, than not enough ... but that is just me ...
and it is a great all around b/w film developer
so you can use the remainder up on the rest of your film ...


http://sprintsystems.com/?s=push+processing

In previous years some press photographer used HC110 replenisher to develop Tri-X to speeds around 5000-6400. The HC110 replenisher is no longer available but I've been meaning to try the LC110 from Freestyle (and then, if that works, try it on TMZ and Delta 3200 ) I have the info on that if you want it but you need faster.

A while back I stumbled on this recipe for something called "Super Soup" :

http://silent1.home.netcom.com/Photography/Dilutions and Times.html#Super_Soup

I've been meaning to try this too, but it's clearly more complicated than just diluting some HC110 or LC110 replensiher and using it to develop. So just now I googled for that Super Soup recipe (I had the info saved as a text file but wanted to link to the original author) and found this on Digital Truth, involving developing in Diafine followed by Rodinal 1+100 stand, followed by Super Soup:

http://www.digitaltruth.com/articles/pushing-tri-x.php

This looks fascinating in a "try it and see what it does" kind of way. I seem to frequently find myself shooting black cats on coal piles at midnight (well, metaphorically) so I used to always be looking for more effective speed. Since the advent of TMZ and Delta 3200 that need is greatly diminished as I can go to 6400 with quite acceptable results with TMZ and to 3200 (to be fair, I've not tried 6400) with Delta 3200. But of course that does no good when you've already accidentally shot at that speed on Tri-X.

Let us know what approach you settle on and how it works out. I'd love to hear about it, especially if you get decent results.

rodinol will give you crazy grain at that length of time....as long as you're cool with that.

emayoh said:

Here is an example of Arista Premium 400 (reputedly Tri-X) as shot indoors at Boston TD Garden
1/125
f/4.5

This was developed in Adox Adonal (Original Rodinal formula) 1:100 stand for 70 minutes.

I'm not sure what the lighting was at your concert. Probably not as much light but maybe comparable. I estimated I was going for something between 6400 and 12000 -- basically just trying to get anything at all.

Image: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7447315/celts_125-0008.jpg

Good luck!

Click to expand...

E. von Hoegh said:

That's pretty damn good!

Click to expand...

I agree, it's very good! I have the Rodinal (unlike some of the stuff in the recipes I posted) and may have to try this for fun.

I accidentally shot a roll of Acros at 3200 once (hand-held in my Hasselblad at a party, probably using f/2.8 at 1/60th and 1/125 all night. It was quite dark, and I figured with that much underexposure on a slow film, I'd really have to punch the development. I used sprint print developer diluted 1+1, and developed for 18 minutes.

I've printed from the negatives with some success.

Super soup, funny I didn't see any of the four neccesary other ingredients. At least it should have had the eye of newt or wool of bat!

Well he said he'd be willing to pick up other developers so it's another possibility. At this point eye of newt might be the best bet.