Thank you! Ive noted too that a dribble of vinegar in the developing tray gives much better results for my van dykes, reducing the amount the print lightens in that first step quite a bit.
Missed this thread....usually this kind of topics are on Alternative Processes sub-forum. Not sure what the difference is between the two. Then there is the Hand-coated Wet Prints, seemingly with similar topics. Kind of confusing.
Anyhow, I think the main problem that I saw with pre-acidification was that it increased the propensity for "dark" reaction, thereby causing blue staining in the highlights/unexposed areas. If I can discern correctly from your attachments, the pre-acidified prints show the first step is not paper-white (or close) even with water-development which tends to give cleaner whites than acid-development.
In my experiments, what I did was compare unexposed coated/dried papers - one with pre-acidifiaction and the other without by developing them at several time intervals. The former had much greater blue staining than the latter, starting at time zero - the difference exacerbated with acid-development.
As far as I know, pre-acidication is mandatory for the Ware's new cyanotype (no first hand experience.) For the classic cyanotype, if you like whitest whites or lowest Dmin without sacrificing Dmax, which I do - not pre-acidifying is the way to go, in agreement with the above conclusion.
:Niranjan.
HCl is known to be a little rough on papers -- and sign of paper damage?
Other acids might work better...citric or oxalic for example -- I have used them with platinum printing.
I agree the multiple forums are confusing. I guess that I posted here after realizing that the alternative processes sub-forum is in the analog only section. I use digital negatives exclusively these days.
Thanks for the rest of the information, it is useful. Especially the observations regarding Dmin
I was motivated to do this experiment because I had noticed that unbuffered papers (platine and Crane's, specifically) seemed to require much less light for the same exposure compared to other papers.
I acidify all papers with sulfamic acid. And develop in Citric Acid. I get no bleed out with deep tones as well as high speed. The only paper I've tried that was odd was Strathmore Bristol IIRC. It solarized a little. I arrived at this by making a few hundred prints over a short time which was aided by exposure times as little as 90 seconds with an LED light I built. After doing all the experiments I did, I'm pretty convinced pre-acidifying and a citric acid bath are about as good as you can get. I also do two other things but I'll save those for if I ever write about it myself....
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