Mabman,
This technique is not a convienience in my mind, it is truly useful and important.
I actually use this technique a lot when I shoot weddings. Direct flash is fine if all your doing is gently filling, but if the strobe is the main light source (typically true in the situation you described) shooters need to find a way to light the background appropriately too.
Modifiers (any brand) and bouncing help by splitting up the light; a small portion of the light is directed at the subject (maybe 10 to 20%), most though is directed at the cieling or wall or whatever to bounce around the subject to light the background, provide a light direction, get rid of subject shadows, and control the harshness. The light for the background has to go furthar so it takes a lot more volume.
Since the subject is essentially lit directly by the strobe WB is not a big issue, same with the background.
WB only becomes an issue when no direct flash is provided. i.e. On occasion I will remove the modifier and point my strobe generally backwards to bounce against surfaces behind and/or beside me; in this case the room's color makes a big difference, it also takes a whole lot more power. This does though allow me to create very soft lighting because there is no direct light. I can also control the direction of the light across the subject the same way. That's why the heads swivel clear around backwards on the fancier strobes.
If WB is going to be a big issue switching to B&W is an easy choice.
This is a powerful technique once you get some practice.