Omega D5V with Chromega Head

It looks like I will be buying one of these in the very near future.

I've only ever used a Beseler 45MXT with a condenser head and indiviual contrast filters.

So, how the hell do you use the color head to dial in the contrast for VC paper?

Thanks for the help.

Very simple to use. The papers usually come with an index of settings for VC paper (I know ilford does). my "normal" grade 2 for ilford is 41 - 32(m). Just that easy. Turn the wheels until the correct setting shows up and shoot. For varying the contrast, turn the wheels. tim

David

When using the chromega, I use Magenta only, if the negative is too contrasty and the magenta zeros out I start using the yellow dial.
I only use one at a time and a good tip is to start recording the setting you like for each negative, as time goes on you will have a good starting point established based on the look of the negative you are printing

IS there a starting point? I am just wondering what equals a #1 filter and a #2 filter etc.

thanks for the replies so far.

noseoil said:

... The papers usually come with an index of settings for VC paper (I know ilford does). ...

Click to expand...

Tim is correct. In the instructions for Ilford papers (should come with every package), there is a chart with numbers for yellow and magenta and the equivilent multigrade filters. For the Omega, most of us use the "Kodak" numbers. (IIRC, Omega says to do this.)

There are two charts. One has simple settings of EITHER yellow or magenta, but the exposure time will change for each setting. The second chart has a combination of Y and M for each grade, that gives (more or less) equal exposure times.

NOTE: these are the numbers in the Ilford documentation. I have no idea why the amount for grades 00, 4.5 and 5 are different on each chart! :confused: They just are. Testing is advised, as always.

Anyway, I made myself a much easier Excel chart to read. I had to put it in Word to attach it here, but it should work.

Cheers, y'all.

David

Dear David,

I would like to suggest that you consider stepping away from the concept of paper grades as it is unnecessary with VC paper. I personally follow a method similar to the one described by Bob above, but I like to start with no filtration. I have also calibrated my system for rapid proofing on RC paper (unfortunately I have to do it again as It was done for Polymax and my stock is about out). With a projection step wedge, I made a curve of the number of stops represented on paper using a given filtration. A quick measurment of the number of stops from shadow to highlight in a given negative gives me the settings for the proof print. (This is, of course, not a recommeded method for a finished print.)

Neal Wydra

The omega manual covers what they think the values are for the various paper grades. It seems right on to me.