Omega D3 - should I keep it?

[Jeff Bannow]

We currently have 2 Omega D2V enlargers that we are pretty happy with, and have just acquired a Omega "autofocus" D3. I would like to keep 3 4x5 enlargers in the darkroom, as there may be 3 of us printing at the same time, but am thinking of getting rid of the D3 as it operates a bit differently and takes different lens cones, plus it needs focussing tracks.

Looking for advice - anyone used a D3 and think it's great? It has 3 "autofocus" tracks - for 50mm, 75mm and 135mm Omegaron lenses. It doesn't have any of those lenses though. It does have a 75mm Kodak enlarging Ektar I believe.

If we kept the D3, would I need to get new focus tracks cut for my lenses? Is it worth the trouble? Seems to me that if the "autofocus" was so great they wouldn't have discontinued it 30 years ago, but I haven't used it so what do I know ...

 

[ic-racer]

When I have used autofocus enlargers I always double check with the grain focuser anyway. So, in real-life use, a lens that is not perfectly matched to the focus cam might work OK. For me the advantage was in composing the image on the easel, and getting the image the right size for the borders I am using. So, I only expected it to keep the image clear to the unaided eye. Then I fine-focus after composing.

How does it focus with that 75mm? Do you have the manual? You have to set the focus all the way at the top and it expects a 1" easel height for proper operation.

I'd see how those cams work with some of your existing lenses, you have a 50mm and a 135mm to try? Again, unless you are using a glass carrier and are in a hurry to pump out 100 prints an hour, you will be double checking with the grain focuser, even if you have the serial-number-matched lens/focus track sets.

 

[fschifano]

The cams and lenses were originally sold as a set, with the cams ground to the exact focal length of each individual lens. That said, the cams will work even if the lenses are not perfectly matched but you will need to fine tune the focus. It's not a big deal or a show stopper.

The real problem is in finding suitable cams. If you want to go with an 80 mm. lens then most likely you'll find the cam for the 75 mm. lens unsatisfactory. Another consideration is finding cams for "odd" focal length lenses like 90 or 100 mm. These would most likely need to be custom made.

 

[Jeff Bannow]

My biggest issue is that the D3 would likely be the backup or loaner enlarger "just in case." It would also be set up to do contact prints probably. Does the D3 operate differently enough from a D2?

It has cams for 50mm, 75mm and 135mm. Assuming I keep the 75mm that came with it, I would be all set for cams as I use 50mm and 135mm normally.

 

[Mark Fisher]

Is it possible to disconnect the autofocus feature? Then it would behave the same as the D2Vs (?) With different easels in a community darkroom, it seems like autofocus would be more trouble than it is worth.

 

[removed account4]

hi jeff

i have used a military contract d3v omega enlarger since about 1988ish,
and i really wouldn't trade it for a different enlarger - omega, bessler &C ..
it works very well ...

there is a website run by a fellow who knows EVERYTHING there is to know
about omegas - harry taylor.
he has a help board, makes the cams, has accessories to sell &C
http://www.classic-enlargers.com/ you might give his site a look-at.

one thing i did to avoid the cones is get a "accessory focusing bellows" (lensboard with bellows attachment )
to make mini/jewel prints ... it works well if you have a few different lenses too since you can adjust it ...

have fun!

john

 

[fschifano]

It does operate differently in that you set the follower wheel onto the cam for the appropriate lens. Then get the focus right. Once set, you can raise or lower the head and the image remains in focus, more or less. As I said earlier, you'll need to do some fine focusing adjustments unless your cams and lenses are perfectly matched.

Disconnecting the autofocus system doesn't work. Bypassing the cam allows the lens stage to drop to it's lowest point. The focusing adjustment does not have enough travel to compensate. There is plenty of travel if the lens and cam are even just moderately well matched. You might even be able to get away with using an 80 mm. lens with a 75 mm. cam.

 

[ic-racer]

Is it possible to disconnect the autofocus feature?

Quote from Harry Taylor:

I tell you as I tell the once a wek inquirers who call saying "I got terrific bargain in a D-3. Now tell me how to convert into a manual focus D-2"

My answer is "sell it and buy a D-2".

 

[ic-racer]

It has cams for 50mm, 75mm and 135mm. Assuming I keep the 75mm that came with it, I would be all set for cams as I use 50mm and 135mm normally.

You should be all set, except maybe for the lens cones.

A few of interesting quotes from Harry Taylor from his website that seem to answer all the issues brought up here:

Although the D-2 and D-3 look a lot alike they are quite different in the they way they focus.

On the D-2 the focus knob can be turned 3 complete revolutions to move the lens stage about 5" up and down. On the D-3 the the focus knob will only turn about 3/4 of a revolution and moves the lens stage only a litle over 1".

The marks on the focusing tracks (not rails) sometimes say clearly what lens the track is for, like on yours that says "for 135mm lenses". The rest have cryptic numbers that may have meant something but I havent been able to relate them to lens focal length.

In this system the 50mm is the only lens that uses a flat lens board. All others use cones. The 75mm and 80mm can both use the same 1 1/2" cone and the 135mm needs a 4 1/2" cone.

I have master tracks for 35-50-75-80-90-100-105-135-150-160-170-190 -210 mm,

I have a device for making exact duplicates of any of these tracks. And I sell them for $65 each plus $5 shipping. I will ship up to 3 tracks for one $5 charge.

I also have most if not all of cones and flat board lens mounts. Several years ago I bought all of Omega's remaining stock of cones which they were no longer actively selling. All of my cones are $90 each Plus $5 shipping

 

[Jeff Bannow]

Interesting - thanks for the info Dale!

It looks like it is certainly workable - I'll have to decide if I should invest in some parts for the D3 or invest in another D2. Who am I kidding, I'll probably end up doing both!

The good part is the D3 came with a drop bed table, which is now under my D2 instead. I tested last night and can enlarge 4x5 negatives up to 28"x36". That ought to be big enough for now!