Omega D2 Enlarger: what do I need to get going?

evites

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when you plug it in, the light comes on; and that's all I know about the functionality of this dirty dirty $60 enlarger.
Judging by this photograph, what is missing? What do I need? I understand the basics I.e., I need a lens, a negative carrier, some sort of time-o-lite, but other than that I'm not sure.
I'd like to print all the way from 35mm to medium format, eventually to 4x5. Confusion sets in when anyone starts speaking of "condenser heads" and "cold lights" . I've only ever worked in dark rooms that were already set up and ready for use, mostly in labs at college. I've been contact printing my B&w 6x9's for a while now, but you can understand I'm feeling limited by my size restraints. Judging by this poor photograph, what am I going to need to get going?
 

Hatchetman

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well you need a lens, negative carrier and some sort of time-o-lite. that baseboard looks in really tough shape. if it is wobbly or the surface is uneven you will need to change that. shouldn't be too hard to make your own. It needs a good cleaning inside and out. make sure the lenses are there (3 of them?), not broken or scratched. is the lens board there? I'm sure there is a parts diagram or instruction manual online somewhere. make sure all the pieces are in place.
 

MattKing

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That appears to be a condenser head, but it is hard to tell.

And I really wonder what is at the negative stage - it looks like an old carpet tile!.

Here is a resource you will want to bookmark - KHB's page on the D2: http://www.khbphotografix.com/omega/Enlargers/D2.htm
 

ic-racer

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In addition to what Matt posted, information you need is available here if you have not found it already: http://www.jollinger.com/photo/enlargers/omega-d.html

You have a condenser head. It uses lenses to focus the light toward the negative. Imperfections and dirt on the lamp or condensers may show in the print, so carefully clean them if they are dirty. There are usually hundreds of enlarger lenses on Ebay at any given time. Look for something 90-105 for your 6x9 negatives.

Timers are 'convenience' items, so select one that has features you want. Realize Ansel Adams printed with a metronome and on-off switch. Microprocessor controlled F-stop timers ("Science Fiction" during Adam's life) are now affordable or can be made from instructions on the internet.

Omega enlargers are pretty common in the US. I suspect there are hundreds of 'regulars' here that own or have used Omega enlargers. Nuts, bolts and screws are SAE , not Metric.
 
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John Koehrer

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The condenser is in the silver tube just above the negative stage.
You're probably going to need:
Obviously, negative carrier(s),and a lens board or two,
This one is old enough that it will likely need lens cones for each focal length lens.
Make a baseboard from MDF & use a formica sheet to make it smooth & easy to clean. The Original baseboards I think
were way too small. The dimensions are probably online but I'd make something more akin to the Beseler 45 series.
The larger board has a couple of advantages, greater stability and more room to move the easel
if you want to crop for something off center.
 

Neal

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Dear evites,

The good news is that it is an easy to use enlarger with parts readily available on ebay. You really don't need that much to get it going but see if the person who sold it to you has any of the accessories as others have mentioned.

You should look for others in your area who enjoy darkroom work. You won't need everything they have, but going through the process with someone who has done it before will be helpful. Here is a link to an interactive map that will help. There are a number of facilities in your area (don't be afraid to click on the "private" darkrooms). A visit to a used bookstore is a good idea as well. A cheap book explaining the entire process can be quite handy.

Good luck,

Neal Wydra
 

jvo

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as a long time owner and happy user of the d2, i can tell you they are well-built and fairly repairable, with lots of parts available, since they were widely used by the army in WWII.

1st thing i'd check is the bellows and make sure they're in good shape and no holes/cracks in it.

then check you condensers, (that round, aluminum cylinder that goes up and down)... clean and not scratched.
size matters as well - if they are the full circumference of that cylinder they are for 4x5 negs.... if smaller, then 6x6, or 35mm if even smaller. the condensers, lens and negative carrier all relate to negative/camera format size you use.

check electrical components/wires.

if that all this is in good shape, you can easily replace the baseboards and clean it up.

do a search for "dick butkus"... he has various camera manuals and may have a service manual for this.

you can do this!

good luck
 

MattKing

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Ronald Moravec

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If this is push/pull rather than crank up, the springs are difficult to find.

If the head has moveable condensers, it will print any format. If not, you need lenses and condenser sets for each format. 50 mm lens takes a flat board, medium format around a 2/3" lens cone extension. 4x5 needs a 6" one all because the bellows has limited draw.

Clean condensers like a lens. DO NOT LET THEM HIT EACH OTHER OR THEY ARE TOAST, Place the bottom in the collar flat side down, add corrugated ring, lower top flat up with a loop of string. NO OTHER REALLY SAFE WAY TO DO IT.
 

RalphLambrecht

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I had one of these before I went to the Durst L1200;big jump in quality but the D2 worked. It has some rigidity issues but, if you can build a bracket to secure the top of the column to the wall,You'll be more than fine.stay way from it or the table that the easel sits on during exposure for critical sharpness.Other than that it's a fine piece of equipment in competent hands.
 

Ronald Moravec

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If you could post a picture of the machine. There should be a nameplate somewhere.

Early D2 had separate condenser set for each format. They are contained in an aluminum collar under the lamp house which contains the bulb. 4x5 condensers fill the whole round collar.. 35 mm condensers are around 3" in diameter and medium format are in-between. Different collars for each. Later models had a box and condensers were moved inside, much more convenient if you change formats. I think there is a supplementary small one at the top for 35mm only.
Those later models also had a crank for up/down. The first you had to muscle up & down with the help of counterbalance springs.

50 mm lenses fit to a flat plate. Medium format lenses fit to a 3" cone for longer effective bellows extension. 4X5 lenses need a 6" cone. Later models simply had a longer bellows, but they are not D2`s.

You need a negative carrier for the film.

Trays for chemicals, tongs to move the prints, a timing device for wet process. And ways to wash and dry the prints.

Diffusion enlargers have a box that diffuses the light and NO GLASS CONDENSERS.
 
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