IIRC, there were/are two bulb options for the B-22 - you should check whether you have the lower output option.
KHB has lots of info: http://www.khbphotografix.com/omega/Enlargers/B22.htm
An ND gel of your choice in the filter drawer.
You could try it without the supplementary condenser for 35mm.
Light output would be reduced, and any added flare would probably help with contrast.
Is it possible to use a dimmer switch with your machine?
Some of the Beselers used a variable rheostat for this purpose, no?
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Lutron-Rotary-600-Watt-Single-Pole-White-Ivory-Dimmer/1059607?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-rpe-_-google-_-lia-_--_-dimmersandspecialtydevices-_-1059607-_-0&store_code=647&cm_mmc=src-_-c-_-prd-_-rpe-_-google-_-rough_plumbing_and_electrical-_-MHLIA_RPE_Rough Plumbing and Electrical_Low Priority-_--_-0-_-0&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgvuysKPl5QIVBW6GCh338QFUEAYYBCABEgIcsPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Adjusting the rheostat may change the colour temperature of the lamp in a way that will affect contrast.
It shouldn't be too much of a problem if you just pick one or two settings (high and low?), and then calibrate your results at each of those settings.I’ll have to do some research into how much the color temperature changes when dimming a halogen/incandescent bulb.
It shouldn't be too much of a problem if you just pick one or two settings (high and low?), and then calibrate your results at each of those settings.
I wouldn't recommend many different settings, with accompanying different colour temperatures.
The original 111A bulb is only 75W, not sure why this is too bright for you. You may have to change the socket since the 111A is a bayonet base. For some diffusion, Omega did have a 3-1/2" opal glass--you might find it on *bay, or make something yourself.
From the Ilford Multigrade filter info sheet:
MULTIGRADE papers are designed for use with both diffuser and condenser enlargers. However, because of the different types of illumination there can be a contrast difference between the two types. In practical terms with most negatives, condenser enlargers give about an extra grade of contrast compared with a diffuser enlarger. This contrast difference, though, depends on the amount of silver left in the negative.
An ND gel of your choice in the filter drawer.
I did what Pieter12 suggests, cutting, stacking and taping 1, 2, or 3 sheets of ND2 gel for my B22-XL. I can't recall how much change in contrast there was (if any), as I didn't print much without the gels. With them, I typically was using Ilford filters 2 or 3.
To convert to a true diffusion enlarger you need to get rid of the condenser altogether. Not sure about the B22, but with my D3 I can take out the bottom condensers leaving for lack a lack of better term the metal tube the condensers sit in and have sheet of opel glass cut to fit the tube. Again leave the adjustable top condenser out, but it will be slow. With only a small portion of the light actually hitting the negative, not too bad with 4X5, but once down to a 35mm need a stronger lamp. Color heads use halogen for a reason. I have a Omega cold light for the D5, I occasionally use it for 4X5, but really slow with 6X6 or 35mm. while myLPL with color head prints 35mm just as fast as the D5.
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