Om2n problem

Hello all

Ive had my OM2n for about a month, and was firing the 4th roll of film though it, when the mirror jammed up.

I reset the camera, by moving the manual/off/auto switch to reset, and the mirror came down.

I've since replaced the batteries, but the film advance lever is jammed, and the shutter release button is in the down position.

Is there a simple way to breath life back into my camera?

Thanks

Geoff

Is the self timer partway wound? If so, wind the rest of the way, hold the lever and try to wind/fire the shutter. If not, you may have a broken lever in the wind mechanism, often caused by using of a soft release button. John

Set the shutter to bulb/reset. Buy some silver oxide batteries.

If you can't get it to sort, give Michael a ring here:-

http://www.camerarepairs-r-us.co.uk/

he's an old school Olympus specialist, very easy to talk to and reasonable costs. Had both my OM1 and OM2 CLAd by him. he sorted an intermittent within the OM1 meter (dry joint) without charging me extra over the CLA and replaced the prism in the OM2 which was foam affected for a very reasonable extra over. Whatever it is that's wrong, he will sort it.

"and the shutter release button is in the down position."

ah, sorry I missed this part. I will take a look at my OM2n tonight. I dont remember having this problem before.

Hi geoff, I had the same problem on one of my om2n's. A chrome one, strangely the black ones have been fine. I don't know how mechanically minded you are? but the fix is relative simple if annoying because that body did it several times when i dry fired it until the problem was cured. You'll be glad to hear it has not let me down since.

From memory now,to fix the problem, first remove the battery cap,batteries and bottom plate of the body(i put the little screws in a jar). Now keep the camera upside down and while moving the advance lever gently back and forth (it will only move a few mm anyway) look to the right hand side of the mechanics. You should see 2 bars(with hooked ends) moving in unison, one above another latching onto some teeth on a cog? gently move them out and away from the teeth on the cog (i use the smallest precision screwdriver i have), this should now have released the cog so it can turn , you should be able to advance the lever the full length of it travel? do this and stop.Let the prongs fall back into position. Now replace the back , replace the batteries and 'reset the mirror'. The shutter should now fire and the advance lever advance correctly.

Unfortunately for me the first time I did this, i found that the shutter froze again unfortunately and I had to repeat it a few times. I quickly got into the habit of test firing it while it was still upside down, balancing the the bottom plate with batteries and executing resets. It was annoying but it worked.

I don't know about yours but my chrome body started having this problem after I used the self timer. The other thing i found helpful with this particular body was to press the shutter button incredibly gently, lifting off the moment the shutter fired and not depressing the button all way down or hard, and moving the advance lever in one smooth fluid motion( not too softly and not too hard ) helped too.

The om2n really is a great body and one of my favourites along with Canon T90 and Pentax Spotmatic F.

Hope this helps. Any problems I can give you my number etc . . . Good luck!

Thanks for those instructions, Ill take a look tonight, but if it looks too complicated, Ill take it back to the camera-repair man I bought it off about a month ago

Geoff

It is common for part CE0854 to break (especially with soft release button). This part locks the release button after an exposure is made. John

I know it's not an answer to your problem but if it's of any use to you, I have an OM10 which I will probably never use which you can have for the postage cost.

I don't know if it has enough common parts to be useful for spares. I'm fairly certain it does work though.


Steve.

The OM-10 has a similar part, but that can be used in OM-1, 1N only. If this part is used in a 2/2N, release may work properly, but B shutter speed definitely won't. If this is the broken part, only a replacement from a donor 2/2N will fit. John

Take it back to the repair guy you bought if from first Geoff and let him fix it, because you don't want to give him an excuse to say that any future problems you may have have been caused by you dismantling it.

I've just acquired an om2n by post from a guy who was honest enough to say that the shutter release/ wind on wasn't working. It was cheap, but I wondered if anyone could give advice about a simple/cheap fix. What's the difference in lr44 or sr44 batteries?

LR44 are alkaline and SR44 are silver oxide batteries. SR44 last longer.

Anon Ymous said:

LR44 are alkaline and SR44 are silver oxide batteries. SR44 last longer.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the info on the batteries. However I've just noticed the rewind lever won't line up with the mark on the bode i.e it won't go to horizontal. Could that be a clue as to why she stuck shutter release?

Anon Ymous said:

LR44 are alkaline and SR44 are silver oxide batteries. SR44 last longer.

Click to expand...

Also, if I remember correctly, the lr44's voltage drops with use while the SR44 stays pretty constant until it dies.

The winding mechanism is part and parcel of the mechanism which cocks the shutter, in order for the two things to happen at once. Remove the bottom plate and have a look to see if anything is obviously jammed in the shutter mechanism. If you can't spot anything, and if removing the top plate doesn't give any clues*, it's probably going to need a professional service. Trouble is these cameras are so cheap and unwanted these days that when you factor in the cost of someone else's labor costs it's often cheaper to just buy a working one to start with.

*hunt out the YouTube tutorial on removing the OM1's top plate to clean the pentaprism. The OM2 probably disassembles the same way.

OlyMan said:

The winding mechanism is part and parcel of the mechanism which cocks the shutter, in order for the two things to happen at once. Remove the bottom plate and have a look to see if anything is obviously jammed in the shutter mechanism. If you can't spot anything, and if removing the top plate doesn't give any clues*, it's probably going to need a professional service. Trouble is these cameras are so cheap and unwanted these days that when you factor in the cost of someone else's labor costs it's often cheaper to just buy a working one to start with.

*hunt out the YouTube tutorial on removing the OM1's top plate to clean the pentaprism. The OM2 probably disassembles the same way.

Click to expand...

Hi thanks, but I don't know where you live, but I don't think they can be bought cheaply!

derek andrews said:

Hi thanks, but I don't know where you live, but I don't think they can be bought cheaply!

Click to expand...

Same place as you by the looks of it, if the 'Lancs' in your location is Lancs, UK. Good condition working examples on eBay can be had for £60 upwards if you bide your time and avoid some of the nutters with crazy Buy It Nows who think we all just crawled out from under a gooseberry bush. I don't know of any service technician who would get out his screwdrivers for under about £75. Hence they're often not worth repairing unless you're buddies with someone who will give you mates rates.