OM2n Problem

ajuk · Nov 28, 2006

OK so I got my OM2n in the post this morning, it looked a bit grubby so I gave it the once over with the polish and good as new!

The only problem as far as I can find it the film advance lever, it doesn't return on its own, well it didn't but after constantly using it its starting to go back very slowly, my guess is that there is friction somewhere stopping it from springing back, I'm guessing it need cleaning? So does anybody know how I get the lever off? Also is it a good idea to spay WD40 into the inside of a camera?

glbeas · Nov 28, 2006

No WD40! The advance lever on most 35mm cameras are held on by a screw with the two holes on its flat top meant to be removed with a small spanner wrench. I doubt taking that off will get you anywhere as the problem should be in the gear train under the top cover. Removing that can be opening a can of worms! Best to take it in for a good cleaning by a reputable repair service, which should last you quite a long time with an average amatuers use before needing another. Sounds like some grease inside has hardened with age and needs replacing with a modern equivalent.

BruceN · Nov 28, 2006

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!! Don't spray it with anything!

That's not really a do-it-yourself fix. As Gary said, the problem is most likely old grease in the geartrain deep in the guts under the rewind lever. Send it to John at Camtech for an overhaul, since it probably also needs the prism foam removed and the other foam replaced. He specializes in Olympus OM repairs. It will be money well spent and your camera will be good to go for years. Almost all of my 35mm stuff is shot with Olympus OM-1n's and OM-2n's. One of my OM-2n's was my very first SLR, I've used it for 24 years now. I send all of my OM equipment to John and have never had anything but stellar service. http://www.zuiko.com/

Bruce

ajuk · Nov 28, 2006

The gears feel fine, remember its when it springs back I get the problem, its ratcheted so going back it's disjointed from the gears like if you back pedal on a bike, right? TBH Sending it for a professional repair would cost more than the cameras worth, the reason why I suggested WD40 is because that stuff seems to be good at anything + it dries and leaves a protective layer so I wouldn't need to worry about it melting on a hot day.

ajuk · Nov 28, 2006

Its actually springing back quite quickly now, and no I haven't sprayed anything on it, I prolly wouldn't spray WD40 into the camera, just by the lever, but it seems to be working now, I have always wanted a proper OM, The screen seems to look a lot better, I'm guessing thats down to the increased coverage, and is it me or is the focusing screen lighter?

leeturner · Nov 29, 2006

I've got quite a few OM1 and OM2n cameras (don't ask). The foam replacement is quite easy and you can get a kit for a few pounds that will be enough to replace the foam on several cameras (see http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110062160398&ssPageName=MERCOSI_VI_ROSI_PR4_PCN_BIX&refitem=110061384304&itemcount=4&refwidgetloc=closed_view_item&refwidgettype=osi_widget ). Delivery from the USA is around 3-4 days!

Lovely cameras that give superb results.

Ulrich Drolshagen · Nov 29, 2006

The prismfoam must be replaced none the less if it has not been done by the preowner (he would certainly have mentioned it if he had). Otherwise it will destroy the prism by the time. I strongly suggest to have it CLA'd. Whatever you paid for it, the OM2n is worth it.

Ulrich

Andy K · Nov 29, 2006

AJ, I had my OM-1n MD serviced by these people. Mine also had a slow returning film advance lever, which got worse as the weather got colder. They did a great job and also converted the camera to take an SR44 cell instead of the old PX625. All in it cost about £65 not including postage.

ajuk · Nov 29, 2006

How do I get the battery cover off?

Andy K · Nov 29, 2006

Use a coin (1p or 2p) and turn it anti-clockwise. There's a pdf OM manual here.

ajuk · Nov 29, 2006

That doesn't work!

Andy K · Nov 29, 2006

What doesn't work? The link to the Instruction Manual or turning the battery cover?

ajuk · Nov 29, 2006

The battery cover, it wont come off! IS there some sort of safty catch, is that what the hole is?

Andy K · Nov 29, 2006

It should just unscrew. The battery cover is the larger of the two covers on the bottom plate. The smaller cover is for the motorwind.

ajuk · Nov 29, 2006

It won't budge! I gave up trying because it was starting to round off!

ajuk · Nov 29, 2006

Looks like I really do have a problem now!

plummerl · Nov 29, 2006

With a proper screwdriver, it is very easy to unscrew the base and check out the other side of the cover. Nothing is attached or ready to jump out.

Simon E · Nov 30, 2006

A 20p coin is a better idea for the battery cover, but don't worry about that now. Get it to an engineer and never, ever use WD40 in a camera.

I have also used Colchester Camera Repairs, the one linked to by Andy K above, and they know their stuff. An OM-2n overhaul will cost a bit more than for the OM-1 but it will be worth it, and new back & pentaprism foam seals are worth it on their own. Consider it an essential part of the running cost.

Simon.

plummerl · Nov 30, 2006

Simon E said:
A 20p coin is a better idea for the battery cover, but don't worry about that now. Get it to an engineer and never, ever use WD40 in a camera.

I have also used Colchester Camera Repairs, the one linked to by Andy K above, and they know their stuff. An OM-2n overhaul will cost a bit more than for the OM-1 but it will be worth it, and new back & pentaprism foam seals are worth it on their own. Consider it an essential part of the running cost.

Simon.

To be clear, I was referring to the entire base cover of the camera, not the battery cover.

Earl Dunbar · Nov 30, 2006

1. I'm pretty sure OM-2n prisms don't suffer from foam rot; that problem was with the OM-1; by the OM-1N and OM-2N, the design was resolved.

2. The baseplate is held on by small screws. But I agree DON'T DO REPAIRS YOURSELF. You need to send the camera to Camtech or Photosphere (http://www.olyfix.com). I know that John at Camtech won't work on cameras that have been worked on by users, and Clint at Olyfix probably won't either. So STOP before it recovery is impossible.

John Koehrer · Dec 1, 2006

You can remove the baseplate by removing the screws in the bottom.
If the battery has swollen, this releases the pressure on the batt cover & it shouldn't be difficult to remove. If the batt has corroded you can try soaking the base plate in a baking soda or hydrogen peroxide to loosen the cover.
The insulator around the MD contacts will be loose. Don't you be losin' that thing now!

ajuk · Dec 1, 2006

Simon E said:
A 20p coin is a better idea for the battery cover, but don't worry about that now. Get it to an engineer and never, ever use WD40 in a camera.

I have also used Colchester Camera Repairs, the one linked to by Andy K above, and they know their stuff. An OM-2n overhaul will cost a bit more than for the OM-1 but it will be worth it, and new back & pentaprism foam seals are worth it on their own. Consider it an essential part of the running cost.

Simon.

20p was worse than a 1p, a 2p fit best, anyway I got it done at Luton Camera Repair Services, only took him a few minutes and he didn't charge me (second time they have done a very minor repair free, so I am not longer pissed at them for charging me £7.50 for just the door part light seal) He had to make an extra indent in it just to get the leverage.

Anyway he managed to get it off, also as I said before they film winder problem basically fixed its self, so now I have a fully functional OM-2n

Thanks for that John, I'm not daft! the light seals do look a bit worse for ware, I think I will buy a kit of eBay and have a go myself.

OM2n Problem

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