OM problem

S Raff · Nov 24, 2011

I put new batteries in my OM40 yesterday and today whilst out and about it has been fine. I have been shooting with it set to Auto with TMX3200 rated at 1600. Typically my exposures have been 1.8/2.8 @between 30-250th. All fine.

This evening indoors I was having a play around and set up to take a shot in with fairly low light and was showing f1.8 @ 1/30th. I fire the shutter and it sticks open along with the mirror. Resetting with check on the dial releases it all. I try again and the same.

I have been playing around for some time with this now and what I have found is in manual mode there are no issues. In Auto and Program things play up. It occurs at speeds of around 30/60th and under.

Any ideas why this may only occur in the Auto and Program modes?

Stephen

Rick A · Nov 24, 2011

It may be trying to take the snap for the duration the meter is telling it to do, or the meter can no longer read low light. Try leaving it alone for a couple of minutes before resetting the shutter to see if it will reset itself. If it doesn't reset, you have an answer.

Pumalite · Nov 24, 2011

I bet is normal long esposure

S Raff · Nov 24, 2011

Thank you for the replies.

Okay so I go to the window and aim out doors, its mainly cloudy with a few breaks in it.

Set the camera to 400 iso, Auto mode, f1.8, got a shutter reading of 1/250th, cock the shutter and fire, all is fine.

Now I change the aperture to f5.6, light isnt consistent but now it gives me 1/60th, cock and fire, locks up, three minutes later still hasn't released. This time I have undo the battery cover to reset it?

Set to manual, f5.6 @ 1/60th, all is fine.

Back to Auto, same settings, first time fires but sounds slow, second time sticks.

I have read about cleaning the shutter magnets on an OM10 and guess this may be similar but what confuses me is why it works fine in manual, surely if the magnets were dirty it would stick/play up what ever.

Rick A · Nov 24, 2011

Time to send it in for a CLA.

S Raff · Nov 24, 2011

Being that it was given to me a few days ago as I was in the right place at the right time and not something I would of bought I'm not sure its worth the cost of a CLA. I only have the one standard 50mm for it and dont plan to expand on that either. Maybe I will try and give the magnets a clean myself or just live with it in Manual mode.

Thank you for looking though Rick A

mopar_guy · Nov 24, 2011

I had an OM-4T that recently having a similar problem. The suggested exposure was way off. I simply adjusted the film speed ASA/ISO dial back and forth several times and the set it to the desired setting and everything is working fine now. Possibly the contacts inside the film speed switch needed to be roughed up slightly. Possibly your camera has a different problem and needs to be serviced.

MattKing · Nov 24, 2011

I'll bet you didn't have any film in the camera when you had your "play around".

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that the OM40 has two metering systems - one to give an indication of exposure in the viewfinder, and another that actually controls the exposure by metering the light bouncing back from the film and shutter curtains.

If you try some test exposures in lower light without film in the camera, the black pressure plate reflects much less light than film, and as a result the exposure is lengthened.

S Raff · Nov 24, 2011

Thank you Dave I'll give that a try.

Matt, yes you are partly right as I did do my 'play around' without a film in the camera, but the problem started when I was 12 frames in and wasted the rest of the film also playing around with settings.

I will put an old film in again and play around with the metering options between normal and ESP.

darinwc · Nov 24, 2011

Is the exposure reading incorrect?
Are you using silver oxide or alkaline batteries?

I would not send in a OM40 for repair. Camera bodies are so cheap these days and especially the olympus. Get an OM2, OM2SP or OM4.
:alien:

S Raff · Nov 24, 2011

I'm just developing (and typing????) the film now so we'll see.

I have the LR44 alkaline cells in there... better or worst?

MattKing · Nov 24, 2011

S Raff said:
I'm just developing (and typing????) the film now so we'll see.

I have the LR44 alkaline cells in there... better or worst?

The alkaline cells aren't nearly as reliable as silver oxide - their voltage isn't consistent.

S Raff · Nov 24, 2011

Okay just while I have some time, I just went to do a test shot and firstly noticed that there was no display in the viewfinder. I continued to fire the shutter and yes unsurprisingly it stuck. Now there is no release with the check and nor does removing the batteries, which had worked in the past.

So these batteries are just three days old and it would seem they may of had the life sucked out of them. Unfortunately I dont have another camera to test on.

Is this what it could all be about, an issue with battery drainage perhaps?

S Raff · Nov 24, 2011

Get an OM2, OM2SP or OM4.

Any particular reason why the OM2n is included, I'm not up on my Oly cameras.

Rick A · Nov 24, 2011

All three of these models are auto mode and manual mode, the OM-2 was the first model to feature auto exposure from Olympus.

baachitraka · Nov 24, 2011

...and OM-2 and OM-2n have off switch but OM-2sp not. I would prefer OM-2n but OM-2sp got spot-meter. ;-)

MattKing · Nov 24, 2011

baachitraka said:
...and OM-2 and OM-2n have off switch but OM-2sp not.

Yes, but the off switch on the OM-2/OM-2n doesn't cause it to really work all that differently from the OM-2s.

If you pick up an OM-2/OM-2n that has been turned "off" and take a photo, it turns the meter on to set the exposure.

If you leave any of the three cameras "on", they will turn themselves off after a short time.

As a matter of practicality, all three cameras depend on the "auto-off" circuitry to save batteries.

baachitraka · Nov 24, 2011

Some owners of OM-2 or OM-2n have reported that they have battery life for an year or so, but in my case with OM-2sp it only lasted for two months upon moderate use. I personally do not care much since I like spot metering very much.

S Raff · Nov 24, 2011

So do we think that the alkaline batteries could be the cause of the problems I've had or a drainage issue? or neither

chriscrawfordphoto · Nov 24, 2011

S Raff said:
So do we think that the alkaline batteries could be the cause of the problems I've had or a drainage issue? or neither

The Alkalines are your problem. The later OM bodies, the OM-PC (OM-40), OM-4, 4T, and 2sp will not work right with alkalines, the camera draws too much current for alkalines to handle and it causes the mirror lock up problem because the camera thinks the battery is dead. You must use silver oxides. Don't use the 3 volt lithium cells either, they give the same issue as the alkaline.

S Raff · Nov 24, 2011

Thank you Chris, lets see what happens tomorrow.

Regards
Stephen

S Raff · Nov 24, 2011

Just noticed that in the manual (just found online) it says "Two 1.5V silver oxide (SR44) batteries or alkaline-manganese (LR44) batteries.

MattKing · Nov 24, 2011

S Raff said:
Just noticed that in the manual (just found online) it says "Two 1.5V silver oxide (SR44) batteries or alkaline-manganese (LR44) batteries.

It says that, but experience over the years has led many (including camera technicians) to a different conclusion.

S Raff · Nov 24, 2011

Okay well I'll run with some new batteries tomorrow and see how we go.

Thanks for all the input.

Rick A · Nov 24, 2011

Something you want to keep in mind, the OM's with a single digit are Pro grade(OM-1, OM-2), while the double digit and letter designation are entry level or hobbyist cameras(OM-10, OM-G). Now days the prices of the pro grade are running about what the entry level ones are fetching from the uninformed, shop around for an OM-2n, OM2sp or OM-4t if you want auto exposure.

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