OM-4Ti Trouble: Shutter

[KidA]

I've been using the camera for about a year now and it has never given me any kind of problems other than needing to clean the shutter ring to allow for smooth rotation, especially in the cold.

As of recent, after advancing the film, the shutter automatically fires without pressing the shutter release - only sometimes (about 75% of the time). I had a roll in there that's not yet developed, so I don't know if the shutter actually opens or if it's the the mirror flipping up. It does seem to be an electronic issue because even in 'B' and '60' (the mechanical settings) this occurs and also without batteries. I checked the batteries and they are fine.

This is obviously makes my camera unusable. Is it just some stupid little fix or has my favourite camera just turned into a paperweight?

Funny this started to happen JUST as I received an OM-4T (not Ti). Which by the way feels a lot less smooth than the OM-4Ti and the vibration from the shutter is far worse on the T than the Ti. It feels more like 'plastic'. The T is less used too. Is this normal? Anyone have these two cameras?

 

[thuggins]

My 4 was back in the shop numerous times for problems with the film advance and even when it was working it was never very smooth compared to the OM 1's and 2's. A technician told me that the rough film advance was characteristic of the 4's. I have not used that camera for many years as my go-to is now a 4T. BTW, the T and the Ti are the exact same camera. One was the designation in the US and the other designation for the rest of the world, just like the Mu/Stylus. So any difference you perceive between them is either in your imagination or an idiosyncrasy of the individual cameras (I would lean more to the imagination side, as my 4 and 4T feel pretty much identical).

As for your problem, it seems like this must be associated with the shutter "cocking" part of the film advance (whatever that entails for an electronic shutter). It is unlikely that it is just the mirror. Send it in for a CLA. If it has never been serviced it is certainly time for it, anyway.

 

[KidA]

It's 100% not imagination. I'm well aware of the potential different feels of the same models... but this just seems like too great of a difference to be right. The sound and vibration are much more on the new camera. I did a blind test, and also an 'inaudible' test, having my ears plugged and firing the two cameras. I was easily able to discern the two; anyone, and I mean anyone, would be able to tell the difference easily. The T has a lot more vibration. Although I will admit, the sound does make the camera feel like it vibrates more than I originally thought, so I was a just a little more relieved to know that the vibration wasn't as bad as I once thought. But still, not good when I'm, so used to the vibrations of the Ti and my two OM2-SPs, which are quite similar in dampening.

 

[MattKing]

Correct me if I am wrong, but I believe the OM-4T and the OM-4Ti are the same camera, just badged differently for different markets.

The OM-4 is, of course, an earlier model.

 

[Frank53]

Correct me if I am wrong, but I believe the OM-4T and the OM-4Ti are the same camera, just badged differently for different markets.

The OM-4 is, of course, an earlier model.

Yes, it is exactly the same camera, I think T was for US market, Ti was sold in Europe. I do have both and they are the same.
Regards,
Frank

 

[chrisaisenbrey]

As for your problem, it seems like this must be associated with the shutter "cocking" part of the film advance (whatever that entails for an electronic shutter). It is unlikely that it is just the mirror. Send it in for a CLA. If it has never been serviced it is certainly time for it, anyway.

I think there is no difference between a mechanic and electronic shutter when it comes to cocking the shutter. With an electronic shutter the release of the second curtain is controlled electronically.

Here is a phantastic site with the service manuals:

http://olympus.dementix.org/Hardware/

Perhaps it gives some ideas about the origin of the problem.

 

[eggen]

Correct me if I am wrong, but I believe the OM-4T and the OM-4Ti are the same camera, just badged differently for different markets.

The OM-4 is, of course, an earlier model.

OM-4T and OM-4Ti are not the same camera. The flexible circuit boards are different. 4-Ti has less current consumption than 4-T. Some late cameras of 4-T has the same circuit board than 4-Ti but most of the 4T cameras has not.

 

[wiltw]

OM-4T and OM-4Ti are not the same camera. The flexible circuit boards are different. 4-Ti has less current consumption than 4-T. Some late cameras of 4-T has the same circuit board than 4-Ti but most of the 4T cameras has not.

Methinks you have information confused.

• Launched as OM-4 in 1983, this had excessive battery consumption even when not 'on'.
• In 1987 the OM-4T (US)/ OM-4Ti (rest of world) had the revised circuitry to fix the battery consumption issue, as well as supporting the F280 flash for flash with shutter faster than 1/60, and the Titanium top.
• In 1997 the OM-4T was renamed the OM-4Ti in the US market, with no design/feature changes.

 

[John Koehrer]

A camera with an electronic releasehas a couple of weak points the mechanical one doesn't usually with the latch and release magnets.Often it will have a dirty or oily surface that won't allow it to hold. Give it the exact symptom you describe.
The Canon AE1 had the same illness as they aged, sometimes you could clean 'em sometime
you had to replace the magnet.

 

[shutterfinger]

Depending where you are on this planet will determine what cleaning products are available in your area.
CRC Quick Dry (QD) Electrical Contact Cleaner is one of the best available. It can usually be found at Home Depot, hardware and Auto Part stores.
With the batteries removed spray around the shutter release and operate it several times. If you're brave remove the top cover and spray out the release switch. The ISO dial can be a bear.
The best option is to take/send it to a repair shop for a CLA.

 

[KidA]

A camera with an electronic releasehas a couple of weak points the mechanical one doesn't usually with the latch and release magnets.Often it will have a dirty or oily surface that won't allow it to hold. Give it the exact symptom you describe.
The Canon AE1 had the same illness as they aged, sometimes you could clean 'em sometime
you had to replace the magnet.

Depending where you are on this planet will determine what cleaning products are available in your area.
CRC Quick Dry (QD) Electrical Contact Cleaner is one of the best available. It can usually be found at Home Depot, hardware and Auto Part stores.
With the batteries removed spray around the shutter release and operate it several times. If you're brave remove the top cover and spray out the release switch. The ISO dial can be a bear.
The best option is to take/send it to a repair shop for a CLA.

So you guys think for sure it's fixable from what I've described? What are the chances of it not being repaired?
Shutterfinger, can I carefully rub around the shutter release with a semi soaked paper towel of this special cleaner? Would that be of any benefit to keeping the cleaner confined to only around the are I'd like it to travel to. Or is it ok (and maybe even good) for it to clean the other moving parts in the area?

And my intention was not to start an argument on the history of Olympus cameras. I might start another thread for that….

 

[shutterfinger]

Sample: http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-QD-11-oz-Contact-Cleaner-02130-6/202262505
every can I've used is red. Its safe for all surfaces. I use it for cleaning large format shutters and camera parts. Put the little tube in the nozzle and spray it into the gap between the shutter button and the housing in short burst.

 

[KidA]

Sample: http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-QD-11-oz-Contact-Cleaner-02130-6/202262505
every can I've used is red. Its safe for all surfaces. I use it for cleaning large format shutters and camera parts. Put the little tube in the nozzle and spray it into the gap between the shutter button and the housing in short burst.

Thanks! I'll try this.

 

[KidA]

FYI, I just developed the roll that was in the camera last night and there are a bunch of frames completely blank. I guess this automatic firing didn't open the shutter after all? Or perhaps at a shutter speed to quick? My roll was mostly shot in 1/30s-1/60s range.

 

[Newt_on_Swings]

i would say its probably just dirty with old grease. take off the bottom plate and wind it and fire and see if you can spot the point where something slips and it fires immediately after winding. clean that section out. if you cant see anything there slipping, you may have to dig deeper and take off the top plate with is a lot more work. I have a write up of that somewhere here if you search for it. worst case scenario is that you have stripped gears.

the T and the Ti are the exact same, the camera you bought just maybe has been sitting for awhile. but the wind on is def not as smooth as an om1. The gold standard i think for slr wind on are the nikon f3 and em, both buttery smooth.

 

[nsurit]

Paper weight/unusable? I'd contact zuiko.com to see about a CLA. He has done many OM series cameras for me over the years. Great service! Bill Barber

 

[jonw]

Don't know if it would help, but have you tried the power winder on that body? I have found the advancement lever on my OM4 has a "rougher" advance compared to using a power winder.

 

[KidA]

Don't know if it would help, but have you tried the power winder on that body? I have found the advancement lever on my OM4 has a "rougher" advance compared to using a power winder

I have on the problematic one, months ago... I didn't notice anything. I have yet to try the winder on the newer 4T.