OM-2S Program light meter issue

[MattKrull]

I just got a OM-2S Program. Cosmetically it is in 'user' condition (that is, some brassing, and a chip out of the plastic around the hot shoe). Shutter and film advance are perfect, view finder is bright and clean.

The problem I'm running into is the light meter is working just enough to give me hope, but I don't know how to fix it short of sending it off for CLA (which I'm not sure the camera is worth to me - I love the ergonomics of my OM40, and the OM-2S really needs a small grip to match that).

The light meter is reporting many (at least 5) stops too low. It scales properly; so if I change my aperture it moves up one stop. I've put some fresh silver batteries in it, no change. I haven't tried it with film in it yet, but I don't think that should affect anything else (my OM40 also has a TTL OTF meter, and it works the same regardless of whether or not film is loaded).

Anyone have any ideas or suggestions? My google-fu isn't pulling up anything useful other than the service manual; which showed me how to adjust the light meter directly, and it also showed me how incredibly hard that job would be for someone of my skill level.


In other news, I also got a Nikon FA at the same time, and holy cow that is a nice camera. But I already have Olympus lenses, and I'd rather have a second body that uses those than start collecting a whole other set of lenses...

 

[Xmas]

Try a different ISO setting.

If that has no improvement set the minimum ISO and maximum ISO three times and then try the above ISO setting.

Noel

 

[baachitraka]

May I know, whether you put the camera in manual or auto mode.

 

[MattKrull]

Xmas: I'll give that a shot. I have tried turning up the ISO all the way to see if I could cheat just by offsetting the iso.

Baachitraka: I was using it in manual mode. Aside from the display changing, does it meter differently when in Auto or Program mode?

 

[Rick A]

In program mode, the aperture needs to be set to minimum for the meter to set proper shutter/aperture combo. Auto mode is aperture priority and sets shutter speed accordingly. Manual/spot mode displays a bar graph with += symbols for over/under exposure warning. There is a single photo cell facing toward the film plane, and only takes (partial) reading from light passing through the mirror, and actual reading is accomplished from direct reading of light reflected from film.
My suggestion is to test the camera with film and printing the results ascertain if it functions properly.

 

[baachitraka]

Yeah.

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/olympusom1n2/om2sp/spec_OMSP.htm

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/olympusom1n2/om2sp/

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/olympusom1n2/om2/index.htm

 

[MattKing]

Try it with another lens - just in case the problem is with the portion of the lens mount that communicates the aperture setting back to the camera.

And try shooting a roll of film in auto mode, with bracketing, in case the OTF metering is working, when the in the viewfinder metering isn't.

 

[mopar_guy]

Sometimes, the ASA/Meter switch can get a little gunked up and doesn't make a good contact. Try setting different ASA settings several times as the contacts can make a better electrical connection when you move the setting dial.

 

[nsurit]

The meter is the weak link with this camera. If the circuit goes bad, which is what is likely causing your problem, new circuit are not available. Nice paper weight. Who you would want to contact about a CLA is Camtech, (zuiko.com) The OM 2S is one of my favorites. Bill Barber

 

[Xmas]

The meter is the weak link with this camera. If the circuit goes bad, which is what is likely causing your problem, new circuit are not available. Nice paper weight. Who you would want to contact about a CLA is Camtech, (zuiko.com) The OM 2S is one of my favorites. Bill Barber

Yes it is an electronic camera and any electronic fault is parts camera but a body only OM10 or OM1 are easy replacements.

if the altering the ISO setting alters the manual exposure then the electronics is ok and the 2nd mirror may have stuck up or partly up.
you could remove the lens and lock the shutter on B.
get a can of Zippo and a cassette tub and large darning needle and drip a droplet of Zippo on hinge then dry fire the camera 50 times on 1/125 then try meter again.
Not Im assuming the mirror has a half silver and mini mirror for the spot like an OM4 too long since I used one.
Don't clean the mirror or play with the hinge of the mini mirror try droplets and excersise lots of times.
if the fault clears don't lube use the camera more frequently.

 

[MattKrull]

Thanks for all the help so far.

I've dry fired the camera 50+ times. It didn't affect the light metering, but the film advance smoothed out even more.

Changing the ISO back and forth many times didn't change anything.

I have a test roll in it now. In auto mode it seems to be close. I figured out my manual settings with a separate light meter, and listened for how long shutter click was. I then took the same photo on Auto and the shutter was either the same or very close. So I think Auto mode works (I'll find out for sure when I develop the roll).

The meter reading in manual mode is more buggered than I originally though. While it does scale with changes in ISO and aperture, it doesn't change based on how much light it is getting (mostly). If the lens cap is on, it reports nothing, with the cap off it reports the same light reading no matter how bright or dark the scene/subject I point it at are. The secondary mirror behind the main mirror is definitely hanging down in what appears to be the proper position.

 

[Xmas]

The secondary mirror illuminates the same sensor as the one for OTH metering so something strange is happening. The ISO dial is in common as well.

How can you tell the secondary mirror is ok do you have a dental mirror under the main mirror?

In spot mode does the light reading vary as you track the spot across a light source?

 

[MattKrull]

In spot mode, the meter doesn't change. I haven't swept a flashlight across it, but I have swet the camera from looking out a bright window to a dark wall, and the meter stayed constant.

It is possible the secondary mirror isn't in the exact spot, but it is hanging down very close to vertical. I can see it by looking directly at the primary mirror. You can see it's pattern back through the mirror - which upon reflection sounds like it may not be hanging far enough back, because it should be reflecting that light down, not straight back at me...

You mentioned zippo fluid on the hinges. I don't have lighter fluid around, but would kerosene work as well? I'm guessing I'm just looking for a powerful solvent?

 

[Xmas]

try removing lens and shining flash light under primary mirror if on and off causes big changes in meter it most likely is mirror.

kerosene is excellent solvent but removing it mission impossible sorry Zippo will flash off but still may stain rear of mirror dont worry we are not going to clean any mirror surfaces... big sin

invest in a can or borrow. spill 1cm of Zippo into cassette tub. Find largest darning needle remove lens set shutter to B invert camera and fire shutter and lock with a cable release to provide access to secondary mirror pivots

Dip sharp end of needle in Zippo transfer to each mirror hinge until bored we need small droplets

then fire shutter on 125 lots of times probable lube turned to gum hopefully Zippo long term fix

repeat darning needle treatment if no effect Id not be tempted to use needle as a pry bar just keep trying

 

[Rick A]

Ya-know, pouring lighter fluid on things only gives a temporary relief, then leaves a non-lubed hinge. Better to send it in to Camtech(zuiko john) and have a cla done. Wait until you have your test roll developed and printed to make sure thats is a problem, you may not even have an issue.

 

[MattKrull]

So, I was able to compare where the mirror hangs with where the mirror on my OM40 hangs, they hang at the same angle. I also used a flashlight to test it, and that had no effect. So it doesn't appear to be the mirror position that's at fault.

I'm curious what the test roll will show, but otherwise I'm done worrying about it. I won't CLA is, as the rest of the camera just doesn't justify that to me (if the body was in good shape I'd consider it, but the body's seen better days).

Thanks for all the insight guys.

 

[Xmas]

Please look at the secondary mirror both cameras when they are both on B.