Thank you but that does not address whether this particular camera is meant to have its meter on all the time. Olympus Pen FT.
Diptychs, triptychs and panotychs, yeah that’s the way to go.
Can’t check mine at the mo cos it’s loaded. But will when I can.
How did you get on metering in-camera?
Edit: I have the same lens as you, 40mm f1.4, cracking lens. Also worth looking at is the 70mm f2, another stunning piece of glass.
The meter works but I have not checked it yet for accuracy. I Sunny F16 it as I do w pretty much every camera I use. But I will check it later out of curiosity! I’m assuming the 1.5v cell will Affect readings but I will compare w another meter to see how much by.
I think the crunchiness of the film winder is standard, mines the same and I think I’m on the verge of breaking something every time. Some if not all of the Gothic Pens had a double stroke advance, I read somewhere the designers thought it was too much on the mechanism to wind the film and cock the shutter in one sweep. They obviously changed their mind with the FT.The meter works but I have not checked it yet for accuracy. I Sunny F16 it as I do w pretty much every camera I use. But I will check it later out of curiosity! I’m assuming the 1.5v cell will Affect readings but I will compare w another meter to see how much by.
The lens is very sweet. The film spacing is perfect but the film advance is a little ‘crunchy’. As the spacing is perfect I assume that’s how they are? Not smooth like a Leica/Nikon etc
Yes I’ve tried the Wein cell and it lasted no more than a week or two. Once the air seal is removed it self discharges, there’s nothing practically to prevent it happening.Just for reference...my OM1-n used 1.35V mercury batteries. While those could still be obtained, I did a test with mercury oxide vs. alkaline button cell, to try to characterize the degree of error, so I might compensate via ISO setting. What I discovered was the error was NON-LINEAR, it varied with the intensity of the light being metered!
My suggestion is the use of Wein air cells, or the use of a constant-voltage adapter like the MR-9, if your meter is compatable with PX-125 mercury cell.
There's a foam mirror bumpers and seals inside the reflex housing. These tend to degrade with age and parts of it start to migrate between the main prism and the ground glass.
Apart from that no other foam seals except at the hinge.
My FT doesn't have a working meter unfortunately, but it's still a fun camera. A roll of 135/36 takes up ages to fill up
Good point. It could be a frame spacing issue so I’ll measure 2 x 1/2 frames and compare it with a standard 35mm width.I'm using the Nikon ES-2 film copier, and treat a dyptch the same as a regular 35mm image. Copying with a digicam.
Those "pen-o-ramas" are great fun. Just make sure you pan and shoot in the correct direction, otherwise the photos will be all out of order when it comes time to scan. Ask me how I know. If your film cassette loads on the left and feeds to the spool on the right it is "left to right".Once I get into panos with this puppy, that will also change.
Those "pen-o-ramas" are great fun. Just make sure you pan and shoot in the correct direction, otherwise the photos will be all out of order when it comes time to scan. Ask me how I know. If your film cassette loads on the left and feeds to the spool on the right it is "left to right".
Good point. It could be a frame spacing issue so I’ll measure 2 x 1/2 frames and compare it with a standard 35mm width.
I noticed on one of the rolls I ran a while back the film wasn’t running equally spaced top and bottom, resulting in the image being closer to the sprockets at the bottom relative to the top. (I’m aware the optics invert, but that’s not strictly relevant here).
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