olympus om4 durability

northeast16th

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i had olympus om1's when i was learing photography and they were so great. i'm wondering if anyone knows if the om4 is built with the same durability as the om1. i'm thinking about getting one, and i'd like a camera that will last for decades, as om1's do. naturally i may have to have a normal cla every so often as you do with any camera. but to those who have experience with both, would you say the om4 is as much of a tank as the om1?

thanks so much for any responses and insights.
 

nsurit

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The OM 1 will work even when your batteries die. Not so with the OM 4. That being said, my experience with the OM 4 or really any of the OM line it that if you don't drop them onto something hard, like concrete you are probably OK. If you are interested in the OM 4, I would suggest the OM 4T because of its improved electronics. I currently own at least one of all the single digit OM cameras and the only one I've consistantly had failures with is the OM 2S. It is also one of my favorites. Get the OM 4T and you will be happy. You might want to get an OM 1 as backup. They are pretty inexpensive these days. When you get ready for a CLA, zuiko.com is the best place to get the work done. Bill Barber
 

Rick A

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I bought my OM-4 new in 1984, it's had one CLA(2 years ago), still runs like a work horse. It does eat batteries, all OM-4's do to some extent, it's the nature of the beast. Kick arse metering, small like an OM-1, uses everything the 1,2, and 3 use.
 

benjiboy

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Rick A said:
I bought my OM-4 new in 1984, it's had one CLA(2 years ago), still runs like a work horse. It does eat batteries, all OM-4's do to some extent, it's the nature of the beast. Kick arse metering, small like an OM-1, uses everything the 1,2, and 3 use.
Click to expand...
I used to sell these professionally and the early ones as you write Rick used to eat batteries, in fact the group of photographic retailers I worked for got so many returned from disappointed customers they refused to stock them any more until the problem was solved by Olympus. Olympus wrote to my company a few months later they had found out that the fault was in the central processing unit, which had now been redesigned and anyone having the problem could return the camera to them and they would replace the original one free of charge, so ones other than the earliest production models should be O.K.
 

Rick A

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True Ben, mine has newer circuit, and not as bad as the earlier ones, but compared to my OM-1, well lets just say it pays to keep spare batteries on hand. I go through a set every 6 months with regular use, and pull them out if it is going to sit on the shelf for a while.
 

E. von Hoegh

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I had the OM system, OM2, OM4, lenses, etc. The OM4 made me leave the system; it won't work without a battery, it ate batteries like Olympus owned Duracell, and when the electronics die it's a paperweight.
Basically, durable equals mechanical. When these old electronic cameras have troubles, you're out of luck as far as spare parts go - the only source is a parts body.
 

nsurit

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If one wants OM 1 darable with more modern metering, then the OM 3 or 3T might be a good choice. It can still be used with a dead battery, however there will be no metering, just like the OM 1.
With the OM 4, if you turn the battery check on and the beeping stops after 20 to 30 seconds, ithas the new circuit and should cause you problems. If it keeps beeping forever you have the old circuit.
 

nsurit

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Yes, I've made several post in this discussion and the 4T is the correct choice. Bill Barber
 

Bill Burk

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My OM-4 was smashed in the door hinge of Carmel Mission (see the photo on DPUG)...

Had to get a new lens, but the camera kept on ticking...

Sure it uses batteries (old circuit. I still get steamed that I sent it to Olympus twice and they returned it with a card saying the batteries are dead)...

But it never used more than 6 batteries in a week, and they don't weigh much. I always carry 8.
 

Xmas

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Batteries are not a problem take them out when you close 'front door leave in hat stand box, reverse when exiting.

Use silver oxide premium ones even with Ts.

Maintainability is more difficult no spare flexibile rigid circuit boards bit like dcameras - bin.

OM1 bit like Leicas you need good repair person cept heavy use needs new mirror damper but few get heavy use.

A good repair person will have a shelf of refurbs to sell as backups.
 

Bill Burk

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Xmas said:
Batteries are not a problem take them out when you close 'front door leave in hat stand box, reverse when exiting.

Use silver oxide premium ones even with Ts.
Click to expand...

Unless you have or buy on the used market, an original circuit OM-4...

The batteries can die in a session - and then - presto the third set you put in will hold for a week. I use swap meet alkalines for my original circuit OM-4 and have never been unable to get the next shot... Although I have had a few missed shots due to shutter lockup.

When that happens, it's nothing to me to set Manual 60, fire a wasted frame, replace batteries, get back in business. I have never had to "shoot" in Manual 60, because new batteries always got me back in business.
 

frank

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I tried an om4 but found the metering, while comprehensive, was too fiddly. I was focusing too much on spot readings (technical) and not focusing enough on the light and the subject. (aesthetics)
 

E. von Hoegh

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frank said:
I tried an om4 but found the metering, while comprehensive, was too fiddly. I was focusing too much on spot readings (technical) and not focusing enough on the light and the subject. (aesthetics)
Click to expand...

Actually the meter is the one thing I missed about the 4. Certainly the most versatile built-in meter I've ever had in a camera. The 4 I had seemed to need new cells every time I used it and annoyed me no end. But the meter was wonderful .
My late father left me an OM4 (possibly late circuit, I've never put a battery in it) and an OM3 that could pass for new, although they both need foam - as well as a bunch of lenses. I've been using late 60s Nikon stuff for the past ~20 years and have no intention of going back to Olympus at this point.
 

Xmas

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I have three OM4 and a Ti
two of the OM4 have high dark currents, the other OM4 and the Ti have lower dark currents.
If I leave the batteries on hall stand they can last for a year, never had one fail on a shoot
If Im going out for long exposures at night I use fresh premium silver oxides as the seloniod holding the second blind is high current for a cold button.

The Nikons I use as well as the K1000 have off switches - zero dark current.
 
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