Olympus OM2: problems.

[Galah]

About a year ago, I got an OM2 (and early-ish model with the serial number in the 2----- somethings, and the metering pattern on the shutter blind going across in a uniform stripe edge-to-edge) quite cheaply (Buy cheap: pay dear! ).

It was in excellent cosmetic condition, but the seller said the battery wasn't working (I should have walked away right there ) and the mirror was in lock-up.

Anyway, I took a punt, bought it, eventually found batteries for it and...it wouldn't function:rolleyes:. (In future, I will always carry a set of Silver Oxide batteries so I can check before committing myself)

Well, with some help, I got it going, but -since then- it has had new seals, including around the prism and a a new prism, the meter calibrated and the advance mechanism re-lubed.

Now I notice, while the shutter appears to be working at most speeds, when set to 1/1,oooth, what happens is the mirror flips up and stays up while the shutter opens fully and stays fully open...until one moves the shutter speed dial back to 1/5ooth, then everything clicks back into place. Of course, the frame (if there is film in the camera) would be lost.

Has anyone heard of/experienced this situation, and can it be fixed, do you think?:confused:

 

[Chan Tran]

The 1/1ooo position on the shutter speed ring is defective (not making good contact) or the manual shutter speed resistor is defective.

 

[Galah]

The 1/1ooo position on the shutter speed ring is defective (not making good contact) or the manual shutter speed resistor is defective.

OK, thanks for responding: it sounds fixable?

 

[mr rusty]

or the manual shutter speed resistor is defective

just had a look at the circuit diagram and the various resistors are connected in series with the various speed contacts between resistors so that the overall resistance can be varied by selecting different contacts. This means that if one resistor failed you would lose all manual speeds, not just 1000. My guess is that it is the contact.

Do you really need 1000 on manual? I presume it works at 1000 on auto. If everything else is working as it should I would just enjoy it and use it. I know its nice to have everything perfect, but sometimes it just isn't worth the hassle.

 

[Jeff L]

Try John Hermanson. He contributes to the site and is an Olympus specialist http://www.zuiko.com/
He may pick up on this thread, or you could send him a note and ask - couldn't hurt.
I was given an OM2 and really like it.

 

[John Hermanson]

Oldest OM-2 (100,000 to 300,000) tend to need lots of work. Hard to tell what's really wrong with it. John

 

[xtolsniffer]

I had an OM-2n that had exactly that problem. It usually happened on the first frame, the second frame was ok though. In the end it had two new circuit boards but that never really solved it, the problem would come back every now and again. In the end I got rid of it and got an OM-1 instead. Sorry to sound so glum...

 

[mr rusty]

Not wishing to hi-jack the thread, but is the 300,000 serial number an exact cutoff? Mine starts 306,000 - what changed? is mine "early" or "later" spec?

 

[Galah]

just had a look at the circuit diagram and the various resistors are connected in series with the various speed contacts between resistors so that the overall resistance can be varied by selecting different contacts. This means that if one resistor failed you would lose all manual speeds, not just 1000. My guess is that it is the contact.

Do you really need 1000 on manual? I presume it works at 1000 on auto. If everything else is working as it should I would just enjoy it and use it. I know its nice to have everything perfect, but sometimes it just isn't worth the hassle.

Thanks for responding .

Actually, the problem is more serious than I initially imagined; it happens on auto as well as manual, and appears to affect more than the 1/1000 eg, the mirror lockup/slowdown/"sticking" now occurs at 1/500, 1/250 and 1/125th as well. I can't gauge whether the other speeds are accurate or not: they may all be about 1/60th no matter what the setting on the shutter ring.

Well, at least it explains why -for some time- I felt there may have been a metering problem .
Can you give me a link to the circuit diagram, please? (For my repair man, if I decide to go that way)

 

[Galah]

Oldest OM-2 (100,000 to 300,000) tend to need lots of work. Hard to tell what's really wrong with it. John

Thanks, John.

Seriously, if I were in the USA, I would send it to to you, but from OZ, just too many hassles, I think.

I'm feeling I may just donate it to my repair guy for spares: we'll see.:confused:

 

[mr rusty]

Can you give me a link to the circuit diagram, please? (For my repair man, if I decide to go that way)

sure

http://olympus.dementia.org/hardware/

 

[John Hermanson]

No, 300,000 is not a firm cut off number. The oldest cameras don't have gold plated switch wires. The OM-2 was undergoing constant upgrades during production. Your problem may be the manual shutter speed circuit under the main circuit. Clean carefully and lube LIGHTLY with a dielectric grease. John.

 

[unclemack]

John, I've been retired 10 years and memory's not great but wouldn't a simple mis-mesh of teeth cause these symptoms?
If the OP has removed or loosened the lens mount that is?
Just a thought...

 

[Galah]

sure

http://olympus.dementia.org/hardware/

Thanks

 

[elekm]

If I were in your situation, I would simply buy another body and get new seals installed. There are a lot of OM-2 cameras on the used market, and it probably isn't worth the time or money to invest more time and money having it repaired.

 

[Galah]

If I were in your situation, I would simply buy another body and get new seals installed. There are a lot of OM-2 cameras on the used market, and it probably isn't worth the time or money to invest more time and money having it repaired.

I'm rapidly coming around to the same opinion: thanks!

 

[John Hermanson]

Mis-aligned shutter gear would cause gear to be off that amount at every setting. Circuit is designed so brushes are always in contact with one speed or the next, there is no space in between that would allow the shutter to stay open. If the problem has been diagnosed as showing in auto asa well then it's a whole different set of reasons. Could be oily magnet, dirty trigger, dirty non-gold switches at the back of the circuit board. Many things. John

 

[John Hermanson]

If buying another non-overhauled used body, you may end up with another 30 year old body with another set of problems. John

 

[Galah]

:rolleyes:

If buying another non-overhauled used body, you may end up with another 30 year old body with another set of problems. John

A very good point, John (Oh why couldn't you be in Oz?)

I think I'll just sit on it a bit, but thanks everyone for the input so far.:confused:

However, it does seem the later models (e.g. OM2) may be a somewhat better bet due to the goldplating of the contacts, etc?

 

[John Hermanson]

I get repairs from Australia on a regular basis. John

 

[Galah]

I get repairs from Australia on a regular basis. John

Alright, I'll consider it, thanks. .