Olympus OM-1 or OM-1n?

cmo · Aug 6, 2009

As I own several Olympus lenses I am lusting for an OM camera body... using these lenses on an EOS with an adapter is an infamy.

The main purpose will be landscapes. For the landscapes I will use infrared film sometimes (now you know why I don't want to do that with an EOS, it fogs the IR film...).

So, no winder, no motor, no TTL-flash is needed, but I need a camera that does not kill the battery during long exposures, preferrably works without batteries, and is rock solid. An OM-1 and 1n are probably a good choice.

Is the OM-1n a better choice as it is younger?

geauxpez · Aug 6, 2009

I would say the OM1n because, as you say, it is "younger". According to mir.com it had "34 improvements" over the earlier model.

oscroft · Aug 6, 2009

Yep, I'd go for an OM1n - there are far more of them around, and they're newer so any "teething" imperfections in the OM1 were solved. You need to be careful getting a suitable battery for the meter though - I had mine converted to use silver cells.

Robint · Aug 6, 2009

I also agree on an OM 1n for the improvements. For the battery problem I used a zinc oxide battery and a 'O' ring. As the camera is all mechanical you could use a seperate meter. You only need a battery if you want the internal meter. Do stay away from the alkaline equivelents, they do not give constant voltage.

Ulrich Drolshagen · Aug 6, 2009

*All* OM1/n (and OM2/n) need a CLA anyway. Otherwise they get destroyed by the internal seal foam. It's the same stuff as the light seals. Test their state and you know what to expect internally. If they are not sticky ask the vendor whether the stuff inside got replaced too. The replacement of the light seals may have been a DIY-job. Changing the internal foam definitely is not. Still being adjusted to mercury cells is a hint that the replacement of the light seals has not been made by a qualified repairsman.
If it gets a CLA, it's not a big deal to adjust it to 1.5V and use silver oxide batteries.
Besides an OM2n I own a very early OM1 (I've been told that it must be one of the first hitting the marketplace in Germany). I've no problems so far but I don't use it often anymore.

Ulrich

oscroft · Aug 6, 2009

*All* OM1/n (and OM2/n) need a CLA anyway.

I think that's something of an exaggeration. I have an OM1n and three OM2ns (and other OMs), and only the OM1n has had a CLA. The OM2ns are working just fine (and should one of them fail, it won't be worth the cost of a CLA - I'll just throw it away and buy another, they're so cheap).

John Hermanson · Aug 6, 2009

yes, go with a 1N. Very reliable and has all the improvements that ever went into the plain OM-1. John

Paul. · Aug 6, 2009

Well I went the other way and traded an OM1n for a mint OM1 use it frequently never had a problem, same with my OM2n if/ when they break I will have them repaired and have the OM adapted to silver oxide batteries.

Whichever you choose I am sure it will please you.

regards Paul.

nsurit · Aug 6, 2009

Whichever you get, send it to John at zuiko.com for a CLA and conversion to modern batteries. Bill Barber

One_DaveT · Aug 6, 2009

While I wouldn't want to discourage you from picking up a nice mechanical OM body, regarding IR and EOS, I believe a EOS 1V does not use IR for sprocket detection, but something like an Elan 7E does.

And to throw some more controversy out there, since you're looking for a new body...
for IR, I think a range finder or any sort would be preferable over an SLR, just because the IR filters are almost opaque to the human eye. Also, I think the quality of your fine zuiko's might be lost in the IR rendering.

But there's more to taking the photos, than just technical nit picks that I've mentioned.

have fun,
Dave

JohnPaul · Jul 29, 2012

oscroft said:
I think that's something of an exaggeration. I have an OM1n and three OM2ns (and other OMs), and only the OM1n has had a CLA. The OM2ns are working just fine (and should one of them fail, it won't be worth the cost of a CLA - I'll just throw it away and buy another, they're so cheap).

Well, maybe but with a CLA from someone like John Hermanson you're good to go for another 25 years.

JohnPaul · Jul 29, 2012

nsurit said:
Whichever you get, send it to John at zuiko.com for a CLA and conversion to modern batteries. Bill Barber

Yes, absolutely! unless of course you're just looking for a paperweight.

thuggins · Aug 7, 2012

I have a 1 that works great and it is doubtful you'd find much meaningful difference between the versions. I'm going to go with the CLA recommendation. If the camera hasn't been CLA'd then it is pretty much certain that the prism foam has degraded and damaged the prism silvering. That is really not a big problem as the polished glass reflects well by itself. Polish the glass and feather the edge of the silvering with a mild abrasive such as toothpaste, and you won't even notice the damage. I believe having seen that an OM-10 prism will fit, but don't recall exactly. Either way, once it is fixed up it will be a joy for many years.

wblynch · Aug 9, 2012

I find the OM-1 smoother and quieter than the OM-1N. I have 5 OM-1's and 2 OM-1N's to compare.

I like the OM-1 because it is more pure in appearance, especially around the eyepiece and hot shoe mounting area. (but that's just my obsessive compulsion order showing)

One other thing. The Black OM-1 has an all-black meter switch and the Black OM-1N has a white stripe in the switch which I find annoying. (compulsion...)

baachitraka · Aug 10, 2012

OM-1n without hotshoe + 50mm f/1.4 > 1.1m lens + metal hood.

Loads of film + cheaky hand-held lightmeter + shoulder bag.

*Lens choices may vary. My perference is 35mm f/2.8 for street photos or 28mm if you shoot buildings + monuments + ruins(which I did in Italy)

Dali · Aug 10, 2012

Had an OM1n for a long time. Have an OM1 now. No noticeable difference. The most important is to get it checked and the meter adjusted as 625 batteries are no more available.

Take care.

MattKing · Aug 11, 2012

There were a number of incremental changes in the design and construction of the OM-1 over its production life. All of those changes were incorporated in the OM-1n.

I think you will find that repair people like John Hermanson will recommend the OM-1n.

In addition, the OM-1n shares the Hot Shoe 4 with the OM-2n, although Hot Shoe 4's in undamaged condition can be hard to find.

Olympus OM-1 or OM-1n?

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