Hi everyone , I have just purchased a olympus 35 rc and everything appears to be working with the exception of the aperture clock. It will allow me to turn the clock and select A, off, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8 but not 11,16 and 22. The clock stops turning at 8.
OK, here's a test for you, with the camera facing bright light (probably a light bulb rather than the sun this time of the year in Newcastle!), set your camera on 'A' and maybe a shutter like 1/30. Do the aperture blades go smaller than what they look like when you manually set f8?
Wondering if the hard stop is an issue with the ring or with the blades.
OK, here's a test for you, with the camera facing bright light (probably a light bulb rather than the sun this time of the year in Newcastle!), set your camera on 'A' and maybe a shutter like 1/30. Do the aperture blades go smaller than what they look like when you manually set f8?
Wondering if the hard stop is an issue with the ring or with the blades.
OK, here's a test for you, with the camera facing bright light (probably a light bulb rather than the sun this time of the year in Newcastle!), set your camera on 'A' and maybe a shutter like 1/30. Do the aperture blades go smaller than what they look like when you manually set f8?
Wondering if the hard stop is an issue with the ring or with the blades.
So, fully open (big hole) is f2.8 and fully closed (small hole) is f22. If you can see that range on 'A' then the camera is working well that way. If it is like that, I wonder if the ring just needs a bit of exercise to losen up, perhaps it hasn't been used in ages.
Did you buy it from a dealer? If so, you could send it back if you really need manual control. If it wasn't from a dealer, can you make it work as it is?
So, fully open (big hole) is f2.8 and fully closed (small hole) is f22. If you can see that range on 'A' then the camera is working well that way. If it is like that, I wonder if the ring just needs a bit of exercise to losen up, perhaps it hasn't been used in ages.
Did you buy it from a dealer? If so, you could send it back if you really need manual control. If it wasn't from a dealer, can you make it work as it is?
Yes I'm hopeful that when I put a battery In, the camera will work fine in 'A' auto mode. I bought the camera from an auction site for cheap but the camera is immaculate and looks like it hasn't been used since the 70s. No wear and tare anywhere on the camera. I will try using it in auto mode then look to get it repaired.
Ah, you definately need the battery otherwise that lightbulb test won't work. Modern batteries are too strong so you'll need to decrease your ASA setting about 2/3 stop to adjust. For example if you have 200 speed film set the camera to 125.
Or use the 625 hearing aid batteries (zink/air). They are close in voltage and work well.
I think there's a catch-needle mechanism in the bottom of the camera which picks the aperture in A mode. Like @perkeleellinen says it shouldn't work without a battery.
Yes I'm hopeful that when I put a battery In, the camera will work fine in 'A' auto mode. I bought the camera from an auction site for cheap but the camera is immaculate and looks like it hasn't been used since the 70s. No wear and tare anywhere on the camera. I will try using it in auto mode then look to get it repaired.
As the camera looks like generally in a very good condition, it probably is worth to get repaired.
You can send it to Olympus specialist Benjamin Menge in Germany. He has been trained by the former head of the Olympus Europe Service center, Frank Timmann. And he has original Olympus factory tools, measurement instruments and spare parts: