(Old) Canon F-1 Owners here? What year was it being produced via serial no, and other things...

Yashica · Sunday at 6:24 AM

Hello Forum,

i've bought accidently today via fleamarket (price was too good simply - to let it go...optical appearance is like new) a old Canon F-1, i know about the "old" F-1, and also the F-1 New, but heard also about a F-1n? This is getting confusing.

Well, my F-1 came into it's original leather case, looks new condition from the outside, i could only see some kind of weird black markings little bit inside the OVF, exactly onto the focusing screen - whereas the split-prism is. What is that? Dust? Dirt? Can this being removed? I know that the focusing screen is a very delicate thing, and get's scratches way easily, i don't want to touch it.

It came also with the matching (breech lock) Canon FD 50mm F1.4 S.C.C. lens...the lens looks 95% new, if all, very subtle marks from usage onto the breech lock part, means that silver-colored, fluted metal part, barely visible, and the F-1 does have no markings at all, as long as i see it..it only needs a new eyecup for the viewfinder, because that rubber flipped over, and can't being pulled back - it simply doesn't stay into that position anymore.

This F-1 was well taken care off, always stored into it's matching leather case, it seems to be...no haze, no fungus, no scratches on the 50/1.4 front lens element either way.

My question is - these old batteries aren't (mercury, perhaps) avialable anymore, is there a DIY solution or alternative for the match needle lightmeter avialable?
I am a Nikon and Minolta, Yashica/Contax guy...i've started via 35mm Film with the Canon "Colani" T90 into 86, but fastly moved over to the Nikon FM, back then, and Pentax MX.

My serial no. of this F-1 starts with 272xxx, i noticed, there's no middle film holder, on the backside of the filmdoor, and it looks like there never was any, at that part.

Is there a battery adapter, mechanically avialable? Damn, i know the old F-1 since decades, but never had one into my hands...only the F-1 New, which was (always) too expensive for my needs, and i had other, fine 35mm SLRs for my pleasure.

I own also the 35/2.8 nFD, and 50/1.4 nFD (plastic), as 50/1.4 S.C.C. successor, and have the 35-105/3.5 zoom floating somewhere here around...from the old days.

Thanks for your help!

1957ExaktaVarexIIa · Sunday at 8:12 AM

Congratulations . (From another Contax/Yashica guy also who has added some New F-1s to his gear and enjoys them a lot, especially using the FD TS 35 mm f/2.8 S.S.C. which is much cheaper than the Zeiss PC Distagon.)

There is a nice olypedia article (in German) about your classic F-1. It informs about the original F-1 and its "facelift" to "F-1 n" in 1976. It's easy to detect the one from the other.

Some call the successor (from 1981 on) "F-1 N" - but officially it was called "New F-1".

As for the producing year of your camera - I have forgotten, sorry to say, where I once found a site with informations about Canon FD SLR serial numbers. But perhaps this one might help a bit.

Andreas Thaler · Sunday at 8:18 AM

Yashica said:
My question is - these old batteries aren't (mercury, perhaps) avialable anymore, is there a DIY solution or alternative for the match needle lightmeter avialable?

WeinCell fit:

WeinCell Batteries

Wein Cell mercury free replacement batteries for cameras and photo equipment

www.weincell.com

WeinCell Batteries

Andreas Thaler · Sunday at 8:25 AM

You can always use a handheld light meter, e. g.:

Reveni Labs Incident Meter — Reveni Labs

More Product Details Here Video Review by Todd Korol 35MMC prototype review Alex Luyckx Written Review / Video Review Video Review by Ishkhan Ghazarian Advanced metering made more affordable Ergonomic hand strap eliminates neck straps, allows for zero-hand holdin

www.reveni-labs.com

Designed by our member @Reveni-matt

Yashica · Sunday at 8:33 AM

Hi Guys,

i am mostly a Contax/Yashica and also Nikon, Minolta shooter. Also have had owned serveral Canon 35mm SLRs, but besides the T90, it was all with AF, starting from the EOS 650 (87), which was a huge chunk of plastic. Yes, my copy is the F-1, not F-1n from 1976. I know about the Weincell Zink Air batteries, but serveral videos said, it's not recommanded, because of the discharge line, which goes more flat, than silver oxide batteries, via discharge diagram into use.

I really like, that the F-1 is such a heavy chunk of brass, and all mechanical, besides the LM. i'd look for the diode-based adapter, even it costs more than my F-1. I've paid 40 bucks for it, with the 50/1.4 S.S.C. lens (my 2nd copy - chrome nose, have the same, little newer one, breech lock, but without chrome nose lens)

The F-1 New (or New F-1) from 1981 usually costs a few 100's... too expensive. And i own the Contax S2b...so...not needed, for instance.

Andreas Thaler · Sunday at 8:47 AM

Yashica said:
but serveral videos said, it's not recommanded, because of the discharge line, which goes more flat, than silver oxide batteries, via discharge diagram into use.

Videos thrive on having something to say

The WeinCell is a good alternative if you take photos regularly; they discharge after being unsealed and exposured to air.

This save yourself an intervention in the camera, which can potentially lower (or increase) its resale value.

Yashica said:
The F-1 New (or New F-1) from 1981 usually costs a few 100's... too expensive.

The New F-1 is a completely different SLR from a different time, only the names are similar.

Yashica · Sunday at 9:24 AM

Andreas Thaler said:
Videos thrive on having something to say

The WeinCell is a good alternative if you take photos regularly; they discharge after being unsealed and exposured to air.

This save yourself an intervention in the camera, which can potentially lower (or increase) its resale value.

The New F-1 is a completely different SLR from a different time, only the names are similar.

Yes, i know. I know both F-1 since >30 years.

Andreas Thaler · Sunday at 10:14 AM

Yashica said:
Yes, i know. I know both F-1 since >30 years.

I see

1957ExaktaVarexIIa · Sunday at 10:57 AM

Yashica said:
Is there a battery adapter, mechanically avialable?

I've noticed a thread in a German forum where someone got an idea concerning these old battery types. Maybe this helps a bit?

Yashica said:
I really like, that the F-1 is such a heavy chunk of brass, and all mechanical

Yes. I love that, too. Those heavy all-mechanical cameras are always a joy to use.

Cholentpot · Sunday at 11:35 AM

I was given a New F-1 along with a bunch of Brownies and assorted junk. I didn't even know what it was. It's an incredible camera but I've found it does have its glitches and habits. I wasn't up to snuff what it was when I got it. I figured it was an F-1 but I was informed that it was a New F-1, not a F-1n.

Canon is confusing.

Yashica · Sunday at 12:18 PM

The F-1 New is a fine 35mm SLR. Albeit i like Nikons 35mm SLRs very much. It turned out, my old F-1 does have at least one issue. The standard prism viewfinder was perhaps never, ever being detached from the body. I wanted to pull it off, in order to give the focusing screen a good blow from my Rocket Blower. Because as only drawback so far, i do see some black markings, inside the focusing screen, inside the focusing zone. I wanted to know, if that's only dirt, or whatever - but i can't detach my viewfinder from the body.

When i press the small two pins on both sides of the pentaprism, the viewfinder simply doesn't come off, as expected.
How could this getting stuck ?

I did it like here of course - https://support.usa.canon.com/kb/s/article/ART150761

It simple doesn't work. It's like the viewfinder is glued to the F-1 body...now what?

Yashica · Sunday at 4:58 PM

My old F-1 does have exactly these issues like described here into this old post:

Canon F-1

a pool for Canon F-1 or new F-1 camera users and fans! please remember to add "F-1" in your tags!

www.flickr.com

That is why - i can't simply de-tach my viewfinder (prism) from the F-1 body, i assume?
I have some weird chunks of weird stuff inside the split/microprism middle. And wanted to clean it off.

Paul VanAudenhove · Monday at 7:24 AM

Briefly, the original F1 was released in 1971, and was updated to F1n in 1976, The two cameras are basically the same and share the same accessories. Easiest way to tell if you have an F1 or F1n is to check the ASA film speed dial. The F1 goes to 1600 ASA, and the F1n goes to 3200 ASA.

The prism slides off to the back of the camera, so when you push the two buttons you may have to push on the front of the prism housing to get it to move. Other cameras, like the Nikon F series, have prisms that lift off.

As for the batteries, if I recall correctly, some hearing aid cells work with an o-ring to keep the battery centered. If you go that route, keep spares with the camera because the cells can go from good to exhausted in a short period of time. ie. not a lot of warning.

Hope this helps, even if it repeats some of what was already posted.

Yashica · Monday at 8:05 AM

Paul VanAudenhove said:
Briefly, the original F1 was released in 1971, and was updated to F1n in 1976, The two cameras are basically the same and share the same accessories. Easiest way to tell if you have an F1 or F1n is to check the ASA film speed dial. The F1 goes to 1600 ASA, and the F1n goes to 3200 ASA.

The prism slides off to the back of the camera, so when you push the two buttons you may have to push on the front of the prism housing to get it to move. Other cameras, like the Nikon F series, have prisms that lift off.

As for the batteries, if I recall correctly, some hearing aid cells work with an o-ring to keep the battery centered. If you go that route, keep spares with the camera because the cells can go from good to exhausted in a short period of time. ie. not a lot of warning.

Hope this helps, even if it repeats some of what was already posted.

Yes, i do know this. My serial No. is 272xxxx, 1st gen, no film holder on film door, no ISO 3200 avialable.
For just 40 bucks with the 50/1.4 S.C.C prime lens it was a bargain deal. Sadly, the viewfinder prism (OVF) is stuck - i posted something here, yesterday. It's alright. It's leather bag does have some markings & scuffs, but the F-1 inside was being well protected, i can't spot a single dent, dings or scratches on the body, not even on the bottom plate.

Some other guy into another forum have had the same issue, like me - he simply can't detach the OVF from the F-1 body. Nope, i haven't made mistakes. Just the 2 PINs being pushed inside - at the same time, then pull the OVF (pentaprism) housing off the body, but it's being stuck, it's really extremely sticky, as it was being glued with superglue on the F-1...sad, but true. Because i do have some weird little fragments inside the focusing screen, i wanted to give it a good blow via Rocket Blower, and clean it. Mission: Impossible.

This is my main (!) concern and issue - i can't detach the OVF, to clean the focusing screen underlying here.

Tony-S · Monday at 11:16 AM

MR9 battery adapter in mine. Allows use of silver oxide batteries and maintains proper voltage. Well worth the price, IMO.

Yashica · Monday at 1:10 PM

Tony-S said:
MR9 battery adapter in mine. Allows use of silver oxide batteries and maintains proper voltage. Well worth the price, IMO.

Yes, but because these are about a bit pricey - today i've found PX675 batteries for <1 EUR, albeit 1.45V, these are zinc-air hearing aid batteries. Does it really make that much of a difference, for the built in LM? Well, i have not bought it. I know about that MR-9 diode adapter for years..but it's like 40 bucks. For instance, i know that the LM circut from my Yashica Electro 35 is adapts the correct current, it doesn't matter, if the battery would be 5.8V or 6.2V, the LM would function properly, for example.

MattKing · Monday at 1:59 PM

The hearing aid battery adapters work well.
Using the hearing aid battery adapters can be a pain, because you have to change the batteries almost as frequently as the people who use them in hearing aids!
The batteries are cheap though.

Yashica · Monday at 2:49 PM

Problem solved - i had to push more directly on the front of the pentaprism, much harder than i've imagined, to release after pressing the two pins my viewfinder from the F-1. There's no dust, debris or whatsoever happily here - it looks all brand-new, never detached before. I'll exchange the focusing screen some point later this year, now i know, i have to push it more, to simply release it. I'm always afraid, subtle, sensitive, when it comes to camera gear - because i don't want to break something, and especially not my F-1.

Mackinaw · Monday at 6:22 PM

Most likely your camera has been sitting for awhile and is just stiff. I'd work all the controls to loosen things up. And if your prism hadn't been removed before, it's been attached to the camera for over 50 years. Don't be surprised if your shutter caps. As for a new battery, consider a Kanto silver-oxide adaptor, it will last much longer than a Wein cell. If you want to date your camera, look at the date code stamped in ink in the film cassette chamber. The first digit (letter) is the year, the second digit (number) is the month of manufacture, the last few numbers are internal factory codes. With a 27XXXX serial, yours was probably made in 1975 or "P".

Tony-S · 2025-06-03T03:24:29-0400

Yashica said:
Yes, but because these are about a bit pricey - today i've found PX675 batteries for <1 EUR, albeit 1.45V, these are zinc-air hearing aid batteries. Does it really make that much of a difference, for the built in LM? Well, i have not bought it. I know about that MR-9 diode adapter for years..but it's like 40 bucks. For instance, i know that the LM circut from my Yashica Electro 35 is adapts the correct current, it doesn't matter, if the battery would be 5.8V or 6.2V, the LM would function properly, for example.

Meh. $40 is nothing considering the camera. Stable voltage with long-lasting battery is my preference, so I have MR9s in my F-1n and MAT-124G cameras. I just use one 3V 123A and one 3V 1/3N lithium batteries in my Electro 35 GSN.

Yashica · 2025-06-03T04:42:56-0400

Tony-S said:
Meh. $40 is nothing considering the camera. Stable voltage with long-lasting battery is my preference, so I have MR9s in my F-1n and MAT-124G cameras. I just use one 3V 123A and one 3V 1/3N lithium batteries in my Electro 35 GSN.

True. I habe a battery adapter also into my Electro 35 GSN/GTN. You can't get everything cheaply. But i am a bargain hunter, i must admit.
There are serveral 35mm SLRs, which feel like massive bricks, and when i put on a DSLR or "modern" DSLM to my eyes, it feels like a joke, into contrast. Build quality...what is that`? It's ok...good enough, but not the same kind of feelings, from haptics.

Yashica · 2025-06-03T04:48:00-0400

Mackinaw said:
Most likely your camera has been sitting for awhile and is just stiff. I'd work all the controls to loosen things up. And if your prism hadn't been removed before, it's been attached to the camera for over 50 years. Don't be surprised if your shutter caps. As for a new battery, consider a Kanto silver-oxide adaptor, it will last much longer than a Wein cell. If you want to date your camera, look at the date code stamped in ink in the film cassette chamber. The first digit (letter) is the year, the second digit (number) is the month of manufacture, the last few numbers are internal factory codes. With a 27XXXX serial, yours was probably made in 1975 or "P".

I really like the Shutter of my D700....my S2b, XD7...for instance. But there are few other SLRs, that "klong"...it's eargasm. Thanks for the heads up, in terms of year....1975 serial no. with 27xxxx would be very cool, because it's my birth year.

(Old) Canon F-1 Owners here? What year was it being produced via serial no, and other things...

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