Old 127 Color Negative film

[Christopher Walrath]

A friend just gave me an old Brownie No. 0 he inherited from an uncle. It has an extremely old exposed roll of color negative 127 roll film in it. Anyone feeling adventurous? My friend is curious as to what is on the roll. Anyone here can and might be willing to process this film and return the negs? Let me know. I'm kinda curious as well.

 

[srs5694]

I've got the formulas for C-22 (as published in the British Journal of Photography, or so the original post claimed) tucked away on my hard disk. I lack some of the ingredients, though, and I'd prefer not to go buy them just for this one roll of film. Note that it's possible to develop C-22 film as if it were B&W film, so that might be worth considering. Here, though, is the C-22 formula that I've got, as posted to the rec.photo.darkroom Usenet newsgroup by Francis A. Miniter on July 19, 2007:

Developer (final pH 10.5 to 10.6)
Benzyl Alcohol 8.5 ml
Sodium Metaborate (Kodalk) 35.0 g
Trisodium Phosphate, crystalline 25.0 g
Sodium Sulfite, anhydrous 2.5 g
Potassium Bromide 1.5 g
Potassium Iodide 0.006 g
CD3 7.8 g
Water to make 1000 ml

Stop Bath (final pH of 4.3 to 4.7)
Glacial Acetic Acid 20.0 ml
Sodium Sulfite, anhydrous 10.0 g
Water to make 1000 ml

Hardener (final pH of 10.4 to 10.8)
Formalin (35-40% solution) 20.0 ml
Sodium Carbonate, anhydrous 10.0 g
Water to make 1000 ml.

Note: Formalin is hard to dissolve and requires extended heating to get even an 18% solution. Purchase of formaldehyde solution and recomputation of required amount is recommended.

Bleach (pH 6.6 to 7.0) NOTE: E3/E4 Bleach may be substituted and acts faster
Potassium Nitrate, crystalline 25.0 g
Potassium Ferricyanide 20.0 g
Potassium Bromide 8.0 g
Boric Acid 5.0 g
Borax, crystalline 1.0 g
Water to make 1000 ml

Fixer (pH 4.4 to 4.6)
Ammonium Thiosulfate, crystalline 120 g
Potassium Metabisulfite 20 g
Water to make 1000 ml

Keeping Time:
Developer with CD3 two weeks
Developer w/o CD3 6 months

PROCESS

Color Developer 14 min. @ 75.0 F +/- 0.5 degrees
(optional 20 sec. rinse on way to stop bath)
Stop Bath 4 min @ 68 - 75 F
Hardener 4 min @ 68 - 75 F
Normal Lighting may be resumed.
Wash 4 min @ 68 - 75 F
Fixer 8 min @ 68 - 75 F
Final Wash 8 min @ 68 - 75 F

Working Capacities

Developer, Stop Bath 300 sq. in. per liter
Hardener, Bleach, Fixer 600 sq. in. per liter

Agitate first 15 seconds then 5 seconds per minute. Contrast is varied by raising or lowering KBr in developer. If developed separately and sequentially, subsequent roll should get additional 20-30 seconds each.

 

[sun of sand]

Is P-122 the same process as C-22
Was there a separate and distinct process for film and prints?
Printon and P-122 kits I have but using em is another matter
reels for that film?

Anyway, I'd go the B&W route.
I have some rolls, too. 1 from 5th grade I can remember exposing. We were taking pictures of butts. LOL I could go to prison.

This is not a pleasant thread
Goodnight!!!

 

[Frank Szabo]

Is P-122 the same process as C-22
Was there a separate and distinct process for film and prints?
Printon and P-122 kits I have but using em is another matter
reels for that film?

Anyway, I'd go the B&W route.
I have some rolls, too. 1 from 5th grade I can remember exposing. We were taking pictures of butts. LOL I could go to prison.

This is not a pleasant thread
Goodnight!!!

Are you certain you still have ALL of those rolls? <grin>

 

[Christopher Walrath]

If B7W, what is the process? I have HC110, Kodak Stop bath and Kodafix and not the capacity to buy other chemicals. How would I proceed? And if the film can produce color in the negs at this age, will processing as B&W alter this in anyway? I know this whole thing is a crap shoot but I don't wanna ruin it if there is something simple I should know. Thanks to all.

 

[srs5694]

A Web search turns up a couple of posts with suggested times for this: one (D-76 and LC-29 times) and Dead Link Removed I stopped here, but you can keep going if you like. I used Google to search on "C-22 B&W processing," but other search terms or search engines might work as well or better.

 

[railwayman3]

If you just have the one film, and don't want to get into mixing chemicals specially, I'd try one of the labs who specialise in the old processes like C-22.
(Rocky Mountain, in USA, and there is one in the U.K. if you google for it.)

They have the knowledge, and tweaks to the process, to make the best of old film. Not particularly cheap but may be worthwhile if you value the pictures highly (and you'd need to balance it against the cost of specially buying a whole lot of chemicals just for one film). I have tried the UK lab, with good results for E4 film at least.

 

[Christopher Walrath]

Thanks, srs. I think I'm gonna try it for 7-7.5 minutes depending on my mood. I think I might forgo stop and fix and go for just a complete water rinse. 30 sec., dump. Clear, dump. Same time again, dump. Then 5, 10, 20 it to death and see what we get. Thanks for the help folks. As always, I am in your debt.

 

[nworth]

Is P-122 the same process as C-22
Was there a separate and distinct process for film and prints?
Printon and P-122 kits I have but using em is another matter
reels for that film?
...
Goodnight!!!

P-122 is quite different than C-22.