Ive only seen flat bottomed stainless sinks, and any slope to drain is in the stand. I bought a California Stainless sink and built a bank of wooden base cabinets to support it. This cabinetry is very strong and able to support any weight I might place in the sink. The sink has a flat bottom, and I made the cabinet bottom flat with no slope, so that trays in the sink would be level. It drains well, down to about one gallon, which I squeegee out. I still prefer the flat bottom for the trays, and dont mind the last squeegee effort.
I looked at the Rosy Products sinks, and compared them to ones I have used. One difference is the steel typethe Rosy sinks are 304, while other manufacturers use 316. Type 316 is more resistant to long-term exposure to corrosives, but as long as you dont leave chemicals in the sink for an extended period, and flush the corners with water during cleanup, there should be no concern with type 304. My sink is 316 and my back splash is 304, and I can see no difference.
Another difference is the gauge of steelRosy doesnt mention the gauge, and some manufacturers go as thin as 24 gauge. I had a 24 gauge sink once, and I didnt like itit was always oil canning or deflecting with a pop when any load was applied to the spot. And the bottom would form ripples to impede water draining. I hated it so much that when I ordered my current one from Cal Stainless I specified 16 gauge, the heaviest available. It has a perfectly flat bottom.
Finally, consider the cornersmost have square corners that trap moisture. If possible, have your sink made with coved corners.
To support a washer, any sink, plastic or steel, would be acceptable, provided the stand is sufficiently strong. You may find the best solution is to build your own stand for whatever sink you choose.