Ok its clear... I have no idea what I'm doing .: T-max developer :.

Loopy · Aug 30, 2005

I'm trying to learn how to develop my own black and white film, which I did in High school... but high school was 5 years ago.

I started off buying Kodak D-11 developer. Oops. Its still sitting on my shelf waiting for a use to arise.

I just some Kodak T-Max Developer, Indicator stop and polymax t-fixer locally on E-bay and placed a bid.

Now what? From what I've read, this seems to be excatly what I need. But I've been searching around the internet, and I read somewhere that its only for certain types of films. I usually shoot Agfa 100/400.

Can someone help me out here, I feel so lost.

srs5694 · Aug 30, 2005

T-Max developer is marketed for T-Max films, but it can be used with most B&W films, and is some peoples' preferred developer even for non-T-grain films. I've never used it, so I can't comment on its characteristics, either generally or with Agfa film. I'm also unfamiliar with Polymax T-Fixer. The developer and fixer are the two key ingredients you must have to develop B&W film, at least in a conventional sort of way. Indicator stop bath is useful but not required, as are hypo clear and Photo Flo. If I were you, I'd get some Photo Flo, and perhaps some hypo clear.

Quite a few beginners' Web sites that summarize the steps required exist, but unfortunately, I lost my bookmarks recently, so I can't provide pointers to the ones I've used. :-( A Web search will turn them up, though.

shadesofgrey · Aug 30, 2005

Loopy said:
I'm trying to learn how to develop my own black and white film, which I did in High school... but high school was 5 years ago.

I started off buying Kodak D-11 developer. Oops. Its still sitting on my shelf waiting for a use to arise.

I just some Kodak T-Max Developer, Indicator stop and polymax t-fixer locally on E-bay and placed a bid.

Now what? From what I've read, this seems to be excatly what I need. But I've been searching around the internet, and I read somewhere that its only for certain types of films. I usually shoot Agfa 100/400.

Can someone help me out here, I feel so lost.

Hi Loopy. Did you mean ID11? If so, you can't go far wrong with that. T max is a good choice as well, though it depends on what look/feel you are after. I like it with Agfa but prefer ID11 with most other films. Give the ID11 a run for a while so you have something to go by, then try the other. As to all things developing go to either http://www.about.com/ look under photography/developing or http://www.photogs.com/bwworld/bwresources.html or try Agfa, Ilford home page.

Enjoy
B.

Neal · Aug 30, 2005

Dear Loopy,

It will all come back quickly.<g> Check the Ilford web site for a document called "Developing your first b&W film" or something like that. Check under products - b&w.

Just to get you started:

- Develop for the suggested time. According to the "Massive Development Chart" at digitaltruth.com, use 6-1/2 minutes for APX100 in T-Max developer diluted 1:4. There are times for a "new" and old APX400 so you'll just have to figure out which one you have.

- Stop Bath: 30 seconds (continuous agitation). Mix it using the instructions on the bottle.

- Mix the Polymax fixer to the conentration listed on the bottle for film. Fix for 5 minutes.

A copy of the Kodak b&w darkroom dataguide is a nice thing to have as well.

Neal Wydra

Tom Hoskinson · Aug 31, 2005

Loopy said:
I'm trying to learn how to develop my own black and white film, which I did in High school... but high school was 5 years ago.

I started off buying Kodak D-11 developer. Oops. Its still sitting on my shelf waiting for a use to arise.

Kodak D-11 is a Metol/Hydroquinone Film Developer that uses Sodium Carbonate as the alkali.

AFAIK Kodak has not marketed D-11 for some years. Sitting on the shelf in a sealed can, it should still be fine.

As a starting point, try 4 minutes of development at 68 deg. F.

D-11 can be diluted with an equal amount of water. In the diluted case try an initial starting point of 8 minutes at 68 deg. F.

Small Tank agitation: 30 seconds of gentle agitation initially, followed by 10 seconds of gentle agitation every minute.

Gerald Koch · Aug 31, 2005

You certainly don't want to use the Kodak D-11 as this is intended to produce high contrast negatives. Since you are just starting out, buy a bottle of Kodak HC-110 since it can be used with any B&W film. This particular developer is economical and lasts forever. Go to the website www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110 for information on this developer and development times. When you have more experience you can experiment with other developers. Avoid the siren call of other developers since they are more restrictive in their use.

Loopy · Aug 31, 2005

Thanks everyone, all the information you provided was a big help. I don't feel so lost anymore ^_^

I won the bid last night, so I'll be at it tonight. Exciting.

Thank you thank you ^_^

srs5694 · Aug 31, 2005

IMHO, if Loopy already has the T-Max developer, he might as well use it, unless somebody can give a specific reason why it's unsuitable for use with the Agfa films he has. Buying another developer, like HC110, would just be a waste of money, at least in the short term. In the long term, of course, Loopy might want to experiment with both developers.

Gerald Koch · Aug 31, 2005

srs5694 said:
IMHO, if Loopy already has the T-Max developer, he might as well use it, unless somebody can give a specific reason why it's unsuitable for use with the Agfa films he has. Buying another developer, like HC110, would just be a waste of money, at least in the short term.

Considering the cost and shelf life of Kodak's T-Max developer, it could be considered a waste to use it on ordinary (non T-Max) film.

gnashings · Aug 31, 2005

I am just curious why loopy went down this rather complicated route for his re-introduction to developing?
I would suggest a traditional emulsion film and an easy, bullet proof developer like Rodinal. You may want a different look later - but at least you are practically guaranteed a workable image.
I'm just writing from the perspective of someone who still has his baby steps in this field fairly fresh in his mind - and I know that the simplicity was a nice touch. I never had to worry about depleted developer, used water for a stop bath and some Ilford Rapidfix, and had nice, printable negs that really let me learn a lot.
Having said that - if you already have the developer on your shelf - hit digitaltruth.com, its easy and mostly spot on for most things - if you want a more subjective analysis, run a search here on APUG - I don't think a month goes by without a complete cycle of developer+film combos being discussed in terms of look, pushing ability, etc. Just shoot a lot and by the time the film starts to jump onto the reels by itself, you will have a pretty good idea what changes you may want to make and to what end. Good luck!

Peter.

PS. I feel pretty accomplished because I reached a stage where I am beginning to know what it is I don't know... so I know how you feel

Loopy · Sep 1, 2005

gnashings said:
I am just curious why loopy went down this rather complicated route for his re-introduction to developing?

I like things complicated. Actually I had no idea things were going to get this complicated when I first started looking for developer. It seems like everyone has their preferred brand. I thought the T-max would do me good.

I think I'm going to stick to it, try it out. If it doesn't work to my liking, I'll go try some Rodinal.

I never got around to trying it last night, just way to tired. Hopefully I'll get the chance after work.

Thanks again to everyone for their advice and input. I really appreciate it.

Cheers,
Loopy

(p.s loopy is a girl -_^ )

joeyk49 · Sep 1, 2005

I'm with gnashings...

I went off in two or three different directions, when I first started developing film last year. I've settled on using Rodinal for most of my films and will pick up other developers if the film I'm using is different from my usual stuff.

Perhaps in another year or so, I'll start to branch out and experiment with different "feels", but for now, I'm going to keep it as simple as possible.

Incidently, if your using tmax dev, read the threads on fixer times and antihalation stuff. It will save you from pulling some hair out when trying to print.

Welcome to the community!

gnashings · Sep 2, 2005

Hi Loopy,

Hope you didnt take any offense to my post
I re - read it and realized that it was extremely awkwardly worded, and I kept refering to you in 3rd person... I dont know why - it just came out that way (probably sleep deprivation). I hope you can forgive me my chauvinist presumption as well - it was, as well, totally unintentional

Now, apologies out of the way - I think its very easy to complicate things the most when you are starting out, because youhave many different opinons, suggestions, etc. But its all not that bad in the end, as you sort out through what you have and what you need and move forward with that knowledge. Take care, and all the best inyour new photographic endevours!

Peter.

Ok its clear... I have no idea what I'm doing .: T-max developer :.

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