Off-camera Flash with an F100?

[AutumnJazz]

I want to start messing around with off-camera flash with my F100, and was wondering how exactly to go about it? I'd like 2-3 strobes (SB-800? SB-28?), and I'd like to be able to control them wirelessly.

I'm really at a loss, of what I can do, although I've been reading strobist.

I suppose I should get a light meter so I can use the flashes manually and expose correctly?

Thanks to anyone that can help...

 

[aparat]

This may not be helpful to you, but I found that the easiest way to use wireless flash with my F100 is by means of radio triggers (I use cheap ones) and a flash meter.

Also, the SB800 has an Auto feature that works really well. I trigger the flash wirelessly and if let the flash decide on exposure. This works most of the time.

Alternatively, you can use a dedicated TTL cord and rely on the camera's TTL metering, or use regular PC cord and flash meter or Auto function of the flash.

aparat

 

[Pinholemaster]

To use the iTTL features of the SB800, you need the new Nikon F6 camera body.

Haven't tried multiple SB800s on my F100. Usually only use one on an SC-17 cord for off camera fill light.

Good luck.

 

[AutumnJazz]

I think I'll wait for the RadioPopper Jr. to come out this summer, then get 2-3 SB800's (and light stands, umbrellas, etc.) and a Sekonic L-358 (and a really long PC cord).

I might have to sell some stuff, but...

Does anyone have any other ideas/objections?

 

[Colin Corneau]

The SB-26 has a built-in 'slave' sensor triggered by flash.

You shoot it on manual or auto in this usage, but it works and is only limited by the number of SB-26's (and any other flash shooters nearby, as I discovered the hard way shooting a wedding once).

 

[AutumnJazz]

I was just thinking, wouldn't an older/cheaper strobe work just as well since I plan to shoot manual and use a wireless trigger?

 

[haris]

Any flash(es) will work. Use it like any studio flash. You can buy radio trigger to put on camera and radio reciever for every flash, or IR trigger and photo-cell for flashess, I think it is cheaper than radio solution. Or, you can use Nikon flash on camera in manual mode to trigger other flashes, and other flashes can be any brand.

If flashes with flash output regulation is too expencive, you can buy even cheaper flashes without output regulation, and controll flash output with moving flash closer or further from subject.

For example I bought IR trigger for 20 USD and photo-cells with flash hot shoe for 5 USD each and used that combo with my Canon EOS3. Flashes I used had not power regulation and were not Canon dedicated...

Of course in both cases you will have to use flash meter or if you know flash output (Guide number) of you flashes, you can calculate how to position your flashes (or if use flashes with output regulation, what flash power to set).

Basically, use flashes like any studio flash.

And for price of dedicated flash (Nikon or Canon or...) you can buy secondhand (or even new) real studio flashes (monoblock). Getting camera flashes (dedicated or not) is good if you shoot on location without electric power source, and not need power of real studio strobe.

P.S. Just remember to use X sync speed of your camera In all manual non dedicated situation, you of course lose all automatization and must use head

 

[haris]

Oh, yes, if you use non dedicated flash be carefull if flash have too much trigger voltage it can fry your camera, so check that. FLashes which are on photo-cells you don't have to think about trigger voltage, even if you fry photo-cells, they are not expencive

 

[keithwms]

You can trigger an SB800 wirelessly in SU4 mode from any other flash; that may help.

If you want to get fancy then consider the pocket wizards.

 

[Jim Bradley]

I've got one of the cheaper wireless systems, a SB 600, SB 28 and a Sekonic L-358. You can fire the transmitter from the L358 to get a reading. Doesn't help with balancing multi strobes just gives an overall reading. Works great with the hassy and I cheat and balance with the dcamera.
JGB

 

[Shane Knight]

If you like manual:

cheap stands,
vivtar 283's,
pocket wizards,

simple and cheap.

Good luck!
Shane Knight
The Shane Knight Gallery
horse photography

 

[removed account4]

if you want to try to figure out the trigger voltage for the strobes you are looking to get
http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html
this has a whole lot of them mentioned.
most cameras can take about 200v but it is best to
contact the company directly regarding the ouput from an on camera flash.
there are all sorts of companies that make saftey-sync devices
which buffer down the voltage, they are note too expensive and worth it
if you are worried about that sort of thing.

manual cameras don't really have much to worry about,
it is mostly the digi/electronic cameras that one needs to worry ...
and from what i have read, the pc sockets can take more voltage than
a hotshoe, but then again ... i could be wrong ...

good luck

john

added later ...

Dead Link Removed
pg 83 says incompatible voltage is 250 + volts
i would call nikon if you are worried about how much of a zap your camera can take.

 

[John Koehrer]

most cameras can take about 200v but it is best to
and from what i have read, the pc sockets can take more voltage than
a hotshoe, but then again ... i could be wrong ...

good luck

john

200V through either should toast the F100's circuit board.
Most of the newer cameras don't use a mechanical switch for flash any more so going through the PC connection vs hot shoe doesn't matter.

 

[Anupam Basu]

Radio slaves work, but also consider wireless optical slaves - they're cheap at $15 or so a pop and work great as long as there's some sort of line of sight - even bounced. Any flash will do - but one's that have a wide adjustability for power are easier to handle - otherwise you need ND gels and stuff to control power. Here's a shot with a holga and 3 flashes - SB-24 on camera, SB-28 and SB-18 off camera with wireless slaves.

 

[fschifano]

If you like manual:

cheap stands,
vivtar 283's,
pocket wizards,

simple and cheap.

Good luck!
Shane Knight
The Shane Knight Gallery
horse photography

All very inexpensive except for the Pocket Wizard, They run about $200 each and you need at least two.