Odd problem on my Yashica 35 GSN

[Dean Holt]

OK, here we go...Got myself a very nice GSN. It has the wonderful sound that is the 'thunk'. The battery check works, it seems to work ok in AUTO (waiting on the negs to arrive), the flash works using a Minolta 118X flash unit, shutter opens/closes as expected, speeds look good, in all it appears to work fine BUT...the shutter doesn't close when set to 'BULB' (B).

It only closes when I move the advance lever. It only has to be moved a centremeter (if that) before it closes.

I genuinely don't think its the POD as other than the B problem its a fine camera. So...has anyone got any ideas with whats causing it ?

I have yet to have a look at the POD as I don't won't to take it apart unless I really have to.

Thanx in advance for any pointers and/or advice

Dean

 

[Kino]

Usually that is the first sign of a shutter needing to be cleaned. You will slowly lose the slower shutter speeds as the lubricant migrates into the blades and eventually the shutter will start to stick open at all speeds.

It may happen tomorrow or in a year, but it will eventually happen.

The standard advice is to get a CLA; the less standard is to search the Internet on a tutorial on how to clean the shutter in situ with solvents.

 

[Dean Holt]

Usually that is the first sign of a shutter needing to be cleaned. You will slowly lose the slower shutter speeds as the lubricant migrates into the blades and eventually the shutter will start to stick open at all speeds.

It may happen tomorrow or in a year, but it will eventually happen.

The standard advice is to get a CLA; the less standard is to search the Internet on a tutorial on how to clean the shutter in situ with solvents.

Many thanx for for that. I'll get straight on it.

Thanx again

Dean

 

[Helge]

Sounds like slightly oily shutter blades.
The momentum and recoil is enough to overcome the viscosity in other modes.
Try a really long exposure and see if the problem is the same.

 

[Dean Holt]

Sounds like slightly oily shutter blades.
The momentum and recoil is enough to overcome the viscosity in other modes.
Try a really long exposure and see if the problem is the same.

Thanx for the reply.

Yep, down to f.11 at a very close distance from my pc screen its fires for maybe 1/2 sec (maybe shorter) @ f.16 it fires, opens and stays there without closing until i nudge the film advance.

Does that indicate oily shutter blades ? and if so, what can I do, if anything.

Dean

 

[Helge]

You just need to cover the photocell to force a long exposure.

I don’t know exactly how and where the shutter works in the Electro.

On some rangefinders it’s a matter of getting a spanner tool and taking out the first lens group to get to the shutter.
And then very, very carefully and gradually cleaning off the blades with extremely small amounts of naphtha on a Q-tip or soft brush.
Maybe experimenting with getting homeopathic amounts into the hinge mechanism of the blades, to liquify/soften and thickened grease.
Fumes are often enough to start the process.

Most probably though you’ll have to send it off.
If it’s in very good condition, as you say, it’s definitely worth it.
Else sell it to someone who is willing and able to do either of the above.

It’s a long shot and unlikely, but you might be able to massage your way out of the problem.
Fire the shutter repeatedly fifty or so times. If there is the slightest improvement (sluggish closing instead of no closing) then continue for another fifty.
Don’t be tempted to go overboard on this though. If a couple of hundred subsequent fires (five rolls) hasn’t improved things permanently, the rest will just be wearing the poor mechanism down, without any benefit to you or the camera.

 

[Dean Holt]

You just need to cover the photocell to force a long exposure.

I don’t know exactly how and where the shutter works in the Electro.

On some rangefinders it’s a matter of getting a spanner tool and taking out the first lens group to get to the shutter.
And then very, very carefully and gradually cleaning off the blades with extremely small amounts of naphtha on a Q-tip or soft brush.
Maybe experimenting with getting homeopathic amounts into the hinge mechanism of the blades, to liquify/soften and thickened grease.
Fumes are often enough to start the process.

Most probably though you’ll have to send it off.
If it’s in very good condition, as you say, it’s definitely worth it.
Else sell it to someone who is willing and able to do either of the above.

It’s a long shot and unlikely, but you might be able to massage your way out of the problem.
Fire the shutter repeatedly fifty or so times. If there is the slightest improvement (sluggish closing instead of no closing) then continue for another fifty.
Don’t be tempted to go overboard on this though. If a couple of hundred subsequent fires (five rolls) hasn’t improved things permanently, the rest will just be wearing the poor mechanism down, without any benefit to you or the camera.

Thanx. Now thats interesting. I covered the cell, set to AUTO ' f.1.7 all the way to f.16 and it stayed open as expected and closed immediately after taking my finger away from the light cell. Now would that imply that the shutter blades are NOT oily ?

Looks like i've got that yashica additiction i've read about.

 

[Kino]

A shutter that sticks at any speed is a game of chance.

 

[Dean Holt]

You just need to cover the photocell to force a long exposure.

I don’t know exactly how and where the shutter works in the Electro.

On some rangefinders it’s a matter of getting a spanner tool and taking out the first lens group to get to the shutter.
And then very, very carefully and gradually cleaning off the blades with extremely small amounts of naphtha on a Q-tip or soft brush.
Maybe experimenting with getting homeopathic amounts into the hinge mechanism of the blades, to liquify/soften and thickened grease.
Fumes are often enough to start the process.

Most probably though you’ll have to send it off.
If it’s in very good condition, as you say, it’s definitely worth it.
Else sell it to someone who is willing and able to do either of the above.

It’s a long shot and unlikely, but you might be able to massage your way out of the problem.
Fire the shutter repeatedly fifty or so times. If there is the slightest improvement (sluggish closing instead of no closing) then continue for another fifty.
Don’t be tempted to go overboard on this though. If a couple of hundred subsequent fires (five rolls) hasn’t improved things permanently, the rest will just be wearing the poor mechanism down, without any benefit to you or the camera.

Phew ! removed the top cover and lo-and-behold, I do believe its got a new POD as the colour is yellow/orangey sort of colour. So its at the very least a partial clean etc but and this nearly broke my heart. Once I got the top cover back on...no battery light. It fires as it did, no problems with speed etc (BULB is still sticking) but no bloody battery light.

Grrrrrrr

Dean

 

[Helge]

The small wires to the bulbs are very thin and sensitive. If the cover has been off before, it’s anyone’s guess how careful the repair person was about not tucking the wires and thereby the solder joints.
If you like the camera, I’d say ship it off to a reputable place. It's going to cost a bit, but you will know you have a camera that has been checked over by an experienced person.