observation on camera reliability

Light Capture

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My Hasselblad repairman advises against my buying the 200 and 2000 series, and that if I buy a 1000 or 1600 version it only be used to occupy a shelf for display.

There are only two people repairing 1000f and 1600f as far as I know.

Most things on 200 series can be repaired by Hasselblad but they don't have any shutters left.
I would also advise to avoid them unless you have one of the lenses that works only on focal plane bodies or need 1/2000s.
 

Don_ih

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I agree with everything you've said. I was really only talking about the possibility - i.e., I said mechanical parts can be made by a person.

Time to get real again. The only parts that will be remade from scratch now will be cloth shutters for Graflexes and Speed Graphics. No machine shop will make parts because the cost is too high.

At no point was I talking about making multiple copies of a part or making completed mechanisms as replacement parts. I was only talking about making a single new gear or cam or lever etc. to replace one that was too worn or broken in a single camera. You don't need to employ a machine shop for that. Scraping one camera to fix another is going to eventually trash almost every camera. You may not consider that a problem.
 

benjiboy

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I don't have any concerns Flavio about the failure of my Canon F1s , at my age I'm more worried that I will expire first.
 

monopix

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I agree 100% and it's nearly word for word what I say if I get asked about reliability.
 

Sirius Glass

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I don't have any concerns Flavio about the failure of my Canon F1s , at my age I'm more worried that I will expire first.

I would not recommend going that far. Buy another Canon F1 and stick around here longer.
 

ciniframe

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All this discussion about repairing mechanical cameras has made me wonder if anyone has worked on the original Exa, the one with the mirror/drum shutter. Although there were quite a few limitations to that design, ie. low top speed and limited long focus lens use, the design itself seems fairly simple, with minimal parts.
I had one, and remember the shutter at 1/25 to be very smooth and nearly silent. Kind of sad I sold it but I had just too many cameras ( still do in fact).
 

flavio81

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How do you reach the conclusion your cameras need new parts?

I have repaired FE cameras and when the auto system fails, it is often bad contact on the timing switches around the mirror box. In other words, an electrical problem.

The Nikon EL uses a similar system, it's just harder to disassemble.
 

Light Capture

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FE has a dead AI readout resistor.
EL's - one has mechanical speed available only (shutter timing defective) and other one's meter is off by a couple of stops.
I only looked at FE since benefits of repairing them aren't that important to me and still have two working FE's.
FE is my replacement for EL2. That is my favorite body with match needle metering when it comes to manual focus Nikons.

So far it was cheaper and much more convenient for me to get replacement than to repair it but that might change if prices keep going up.
I have few other manual Nikons so it shouldn't affect me for quite some time. Few times I opened electronic bodies of this kind it was something that wasn't repairable. Will probably have more luck next time with these spare bodies for parts.

Issues with switches are usually relatively easy to trace. Applying good contact cleaner on them gets it working most of the time. Careful application is needed so it's not sprayed where it shouldn't go.
Swab, toothpick or brush is better for targeted application. Contact cleaner also contains traces of fine light oil and it will protect contacts from oxidation for some time.
 

flavio81

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FE has a dead AI readout resistor

You mean the FRE? Damn Nikon, i hate their FREs. They can't make a reliable variable resistor. They should learn from Canon and Pentax.

But then, this is an electrical issue, not really electronic.

EL's - one has mechanical speed available only (shutter timing defective) and other one's meter is off by a couple of stops.

That is probably purely electrical. Timing relies on the timing switches and switches do corrode/get dirty and misadjust.

The meter can be recalibrated.
 

Bill Burk

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I would mention that 'reliability' for me, means a mechanical camera that I can easily take apart. While reliable for general purpose recommendation would involve recommending a camera likely to work well without likely needing any repair.
That's one reason I avoid recommending electronic cameras (like Minolta XG7) although they may have been a very good choice when they were new. Ralph's original observation may have included inherently "better" and more reliable electronic cameras, (like Nikon).
 
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