Numbering film holders and recording exposure.

[Ektagraphic]

Hi Guys-
I am very new to LF suff so I have a couple of questions. Is there a standardized way to number film holders or should I just go with what works for me? Should each side of the 4X5 film holder have its own number or should each holder have a number and one side is (for expample) 1A and the other side 1B? Also is there a little exposure/notebook or a printout online set up for photgraphy or is it also best to make my own. Thanks

 

[David Grenet]

I can't really help with the numbering, but there is this to keep track of exposures. Haven't used it myself but I imagine it would be pretty useful.

 

[DanielStone]

Standardized: NO its a personal preference thing

I number each holder as #with an A or B behind it, so I know which side is which. (12a/12b)

get a small notebook from the dollar store, a pencil or two(mechanical are my preference). Write the exposure info you want to remember, recommended Dev(+/-/N) on a piece of tape on the holder, so you can keep track of them without having to refer to your little book all the time.

I got a small notepad at the 99c store that I record what I shot, exposure data, time of day, direction the camera is pointing(small 1/2" compass superglued to the top of my spot meter), lens used, filter(if any used), and bellows extension(if I have the time)(I got a small 3ft sewing tape at Joann Fabrics for $1)

but I'm kind of weird like that, so ya

-Dan

 

[John Kasaian]

I use those little round colored adhesive labels from Sanford.
Each side gets a number.
Then I ignore it.

 

[AlexG]

When I use my baby graphic, I'll always stick a fat piece of white gaffers tape on the darkslide once the film has been exposed. On the piece of tape I'll record any info that is needed. Also, this method stops me from ever re-exposing the same pice of film. Once I'm in the "darkroom" I peel the tape (gaffers tape is made to never leave a residue - some manufactures even have a guarantee backed be a warranty!) and stick it smack down on the table next to the sink so I can develop accordingly.

Alex

 

[bobwysiwyg]

I had a similar question not long ago, but went one step further wanting to ID a particular negative back to the holder. This is a thread that described my solution, or the one I used, notches in the holders and a notebook.

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

 

[Ektagraphic]

well I already took care of the exposed film problem because one side of the slide is silver one black....but I couldn't resist this tape!
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/434740-REG/General_Brand___Warning_Exposed_Film_Tape.html It acually also says only open in darkroom on it too.

 

[Toffle]

...get a small notebook from the dollar store, a pencil or two(mechanical are my preference). Write the exposure info you want to remember, recommended Dev(+/-/N) on a piece of tape on the holder, so you can keep track of them without having to refer to your little book all the time.

I got a small notepad at the 99c store that I record what I shot, exposure data....

but I'm kind of weird like that, so ya

-Dan

I have 26 holders, but I never use more than a few at a time. They've all been tested, so I keep them clean and rotate them in and out of service. Each one has a letter or number identifying it. I ignore these too.

Field data is important. I double-record my data in a dollar store flip notebood and on a sticker on each holder. When I process my film, I transfer the stickers into my developing log. I'd be tempted to transfer them into my print log as well, but I had my printing book laid out long before I started LF, and I like the way it works. Nonetheless, there is a clear written record of the entire process from exposure through printing and toning.

 

[Ektagraphic]

Well I just decided to number them and I used a 1A on one side 1B on the other and so one.....

 

[msage]

Well I just decided to number them and I used a 1A on one side 1B on the other and so one.....

I number on side "1", the other side "2". Next holder "3" and "4", on so on. That number goes with exposure info in my notebook.
Michael

 

[numnutz]

Here are a couple of ideas as to how to identify each individual sheet of film that you shoot.

I am using a binary system that will number up to 256 sheets of film starting at 0

In the field I just note down the number on each side of every holder in a binary system rather than the numbering systems shown I figure that I will not need more then 128 double sided film holders i.e.

00000010=2, 00000011=3, 00000100=4, 00000101=5, 00000110 = 6, 1111101=125 etc.

just use the method of marking the film holders as described on these pages

http://www.doerzmanphoto.com/film_holders.html

http://www.jbhphoto.com/articles/filmno/filmholder1.htm

Hope this provides some inspiration


nn

 

[Steve Hamley]

Here's a jpeg of drilled film holder rails that I got from a TVA sale. The film holder number is 54, hence the set of 5 and set of 4 dots. The two dots that are "perpendicular" to the others indicate side 2 of the holder. The exterior is also marked with the number 54, because of course, if you have many holders and you find a leaker, you have to unload them all to find number 54. So for drilling the rails to be useful, you also have to mark the exterior.

Cheers, Steve

 

[bobwysiwyg]

Steve, I considered this route, but finally went with binary notching. How did you avoid drilling too far? I'm assuming you removed the dark slide and slipped something under the lip?:confused:

 

[Steve Hamley]

Bob,

I didn't drill them, someone at (I assume) TVA did - I was told by Thompson's Photo that was where they came from.

But back to the question, they make drill stops that attach to a drill bit, and most drill presses can be set to stop at a certain distance.

Cheers, Steve

 

[mikebarger]

On small jobs like this I've used several layers of tape around the drill bit as a stop.

Mike

 

[RalphLambrecht]

the pdf linked to this thread may help

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

 

[Chuck_P]

I number on side "1", the other side "2". Next holder "3" and "4", on so on. That number goes with exposure info in my notebook.
Michael

This is what I do except I use A/B, C/D, etc....I refer to them as the "A/B holder" or the "C/D holder". The holder ID goes on the note card with the particular letter circled.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

This is what I do except I use A/B, C/D, etc....I refer to them as the "A/B holder" or the "C/D holder". The holder ID goes on the note card with the particular letter circled.

Notching the holder has the benefit that the developed film has the same number as the holder and the notes. My problem was that, even with taking notes, after development, it was very difficult to know what sheet of film went with which notes.

 

[Chuck_P]

Thanks Ralph, I found the PDF file to be very interesting and have printed it for my notebook.

 

[Ektagraphic]

I don't think that I will notch my holders quite yet. I will just take good notes with the particular scene and then develop them in order so that when I pull them out of the tanks they are in order and they can eventually have their numbers back when they are sleeved.

 

[Ektagraphic]

BTW, does anyone have a link to that thread where we discussed wether the light or dark slide of the darkslide should be in or out? I can't find it.
Thanks.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

I don't think that I will notch my holders quite yet. I will just take good notes with the particular scene and then develop them in order so that when I pull them out of the tanks they are in order and they can eventually have their numbers back when they are sleeved.

No chance and potentially dangerous, because exposure records get confused and wrong conclusion are made for future exposures! Also, you are missing one of the biggest advantages of sheet film that way: exposing and developing according to the Zone System.

If you hesitate to make large notches, consider very small notches. They serve the same purpose. It's really no big deal. Notching makes them better, not worse or devalued!

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

I just number each side of the holders consecutively and use those numbers in my notes, and between them, I pretty much always know which neg goes with which holder on the basis of content and the appearance of the negs. Maybe it is more difficult if one makes many very similar images or if the notes aren't sufficiently detailed to distinguish them. On my Grafmatics, I leave the number wheel intact to print a number on each frame. Sometimes I don't take very detailed notes, but then I usually don't think it's as important to keep track of which neg goes with which side of which holder, because they are all getting the same development treatment, and I've used the holders enough to have weeded out light leaks and such.

One of the best systems I've seen for ID'ing filmholders I think was posted by a user on the LF forum several years ago. He used a router to cut out a rectangular space on the flap and then printed clear labels with an ID number and copyright notice and glued them into the space, so they would print on the film rebate.

 

[Chuck_P]

Maybe it is more difficult if one makes many very similar images or if the notes aren't sufficiently detailed to distinguish them.

I pretty much keep track of the negatives with good notes for the subject just as you indicate.

But I believe when taking multiple pictures of the same subject for varying the exposure and processing later, the notch system could help avoid some major confusion, so I agree---I think I'm going to try it.

 

[mikebarger]

I have lost track of negatives to belonging to which holder before. I like Ralph's system, but the drilling the coded holes looks easier and serves the same purpose. Probably even quicker to do.

I've notched all my Hasselbald backs years ago, time to get after the LF holders.

Mike