nuarc 26-1K

[AdLumen]

I turned on my 26-1K this morning, started the vacuum and turned on the light; only to hear a loud "pop" and have the unit shut down. I tried replacing the fuses but still no power. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Regards,

Jonathon :confused:

 

[Ron-san]

I turned on my 26-1K this morning, started the vacuum and turned on the light; only to hear a loud "pop" and have the unit shut down. I tried replacing the fuses but still no power. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Regards,

Jonathon :confused:

Jonathon-- Don't know if this will help, but here is my experience with my FT26 flip top. One day it burned out the bulb and everything stopped with a large POP. I bought a new bulb, installed it, and the machine would not power up. I looked at all the fuses and could not see that any of them had blown. Finally, in total frustration, I took off the front panel and just stared at the guts of the machine for a few minutes. Suddenly I noticed a wire that had melted through and was not connected. I reconnected the wire and everything powered up and has worked fine for the last several months.

I think the lesson I learned is that my machine can melt through a wire without blowing a fuse (what the hell are the fuses for, anyway?). Possibly something similar has happened in your machine? A wire has melted through without blowing a fuse? Hope this helps.

Cheers, Ron Reeder

 

[AdLumen]

Jonathon-- Don't know if this will help, but here is my experience with my FT26 flip top. One day it burned out the bulb and everything stopped with a large POP. I bought a new bulb, installed it, and the machine would not power up. I looked at all the fuses and could not see that any of them had blown. Finally, in total frustration, I took off the front panel and just stared at the guts of the machine for a few minutes. Suddenly I noticed a wire that had melted through and was not connected. I reconnected the wire and everything powered up and has worked fine for the last several months.

I think the lesson I learned is that my machine can melt through a wire without blowing a fuse (what the hell are the fuses for, anyway?). Possibly something similar has happened in your machine? A wire has melted through without blowing a fuse? Hope this helps.

Cheers, Ron Reeder

Ron,
Thank you for the help! Like you, I replaced the fuse and stil no power. I just looked again "under the hood" and found a wire burned into. Now the unit works fine.
Another question that you might be able to help with. How do I calibrate the timing cycle? I noticed a small dial inside, is that the timing unit?
Again, Thanks for the help!

Regards,

Jonathon Russell

 

[Ron-san]

Ron,
Another question that you might be able to help with. How do I calibrate the timing cycle? I noticed a small dial inside, is that the timing unit?

Regards,

Jonathon Russell

Jonathon-- Amazing! For once my advice actually worked! Unfortunately I have no idea how to calibrate the timing cycle. If you figure it out, let me know. When I replaced my bulb I think the new bulb was a bit dimmer than the old one. But the timing integrator seemed to keep on working since the ideal exposure in Nuarc Units remained the same. Good luck. Ron Reeder

 

[clay]

The little dial in the 26-1K is a basically a little variable neutral density filter that cuts down on the amount of light that hits the photo cell that determines the exposure. You can turn it one way or the other so that more or less light is hitting the sensor, and it will change the speed that the numbers on the front count down the exposure. Some people will calibrate this so that 1 unit is approximately 1 sec after the lamp heats up to full power during an exposure cycle. I never bothered.

Jonathon-- Amazing! For once my advice actually worked! Unfortunately I have no idea how to calibrate the timing cycle. If you figure it out, let me know. When I replaced my bulb I think the new bulb was a bit dimmer than the old one. But the timing integrator seemed to keep on working since the ideal exposure in Nuarc Units remained the same. Good luck. Ron Reeder

 

[donbga]

The little dial in the 26-1K is a basically a little variable neutral density filter that cuts down on the amount of light that hits the photo cell that determines the exposure. You can turn it one way or the other so that more or less light is hitting the sensor, and it will change the speed that the numbers on the front count down the exposure. Some people will calibrate this so that 1 unit is approximately 1 sec after the lamp heats up to full power during an exposure cycle. I never bothered.

Does anyone have source for a manual for the 26-1K that shows details on the neutral density filter adjustment?

Thanks,

Don Bryant

 

[clay]

I have never been able to track down a manual. I now have an Amergraph unit, but when I had the 26-1k, the reason I know about this little adjustment is that it is made of plastic material, and it can get cracked and crazed over time and start giving inconsistent results. I ordered a new one from Nuarc and put it on the unit one time when I was getting inconsistent exposures and it fixed the problem. It looks like a coin-size piece of plastic with a Yin-Yang symbol on the surface. You dial more and more black (Yang?) over the detector and the counter slows down. So if 1000 units is not enough for that negative, you can pop the top allow less light to hit the sensor and the lamp will stay on longer for a given counter value.

 

[donbga]

I have never been able to track down a manual. I now have an Amergraph unit, but when I had the 26-1k, the reason I know about this little adjustment is that it is made of plastic material, and it can get cracked and crazed over time and start giving inconsistent results. I ordered a new one from Nuarc and put it on the unit one time when I was getting inconsistent exposures and it fixed the problem. It looks like a coin-size piece of plastic with a Yin-Yang symbol on the surface. You dial more and more black (Yang?) over the detector and the counter slows down. So if 1000 units is not enough for that negative, you can pop the top allow less light to hit the sensor and the lamp will stay on longer for a given counter value.

Okay, thanks Clay.

Don

 

[AdLumen]

Does anyone have source for a manual for the 26-1K that shows details on the neutral density filter adjustment?

Thanks,

Don Bryant

Don,
I have a 7 page pdf on the 26-1K, it's yours if you want it. Just PM and I will attach it to an email.

Joanthon

 

[sanking]

In addition to adjusting the filter which is done as Clay describes one can also further adjust the integration by pointing the eye of the sensor directly toward or away from the small open hole directly above the bulb. This was done easily on the unit that I once owned by releasing pressure on a screw at the swivel point and then directing the orientatin of the sensor eye with respect to the opening hole.

However, even after adjusting the sensor I still got inconsistent results with the 26-1k, in that so many units of exposure did not always give the same density. I actually spoke to one of the technicians at NuArc and he suggested that the reason for the inconsistenct was that the peak sensitivity of the sensor was at a much higher wavelength than 360-370 nm. By what Clay says sounds like I may have just needed a new cell.

Sandy

I have never been able to track down a manual. I now have an Amergraph unit, but when I had the 26-1k, the reason I know about this little adjustment is that it is made of plastic material, and it can get cracked and crazed over time and start giving inconsistent results. I ordered a new one from Nuarc and put it on the unit one time when I was getting inconsistent exposures and it fixed the problem. It looks like a coin-size piece of plastic with a Yin-Yang symbol on the surface. You dial more and more black (Yang?) over the detector and the counter slows down. So if 1000 units is not enough for that negative, you can pop the top allow less light to hit the sensor and the lamp will stay on longer for a given counter value.