Now ready to order film and developer

I checked Freestyle ,
that is one fantastic place for photo enthusiast.
Unfortunately, I am in Ontario, Canada and not Ontario California.
But thanks for the tip anyhow
Ronald

RonaldD said:

Kodak D-76, 128 oz powder $ 6.99
Kodak Indicator Stop 16 oz $6.99
Kodak Fixer Powder 1 Gal $6.99
Kodak Photo Flo 200 16 oz $8.99

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Thats a good basic list of what you need to get going. I would suggest getting a rapid fixer, they are easier to mix, work faster, and wash out easier. I like the Ilford Rapid Fix product, but Kodak makes it as well in a two part (you dont need the hardener part really). You do not have to stick to a single manufacturer's product line and can mix and match as long as you use them as indicated and in the correct order. (dev, stop, fix, wash)

My favorite tanks are the Patterson Super System 4 plastic tanks and reels, you would want at least a 2 reel sized tank. If you can find the plastic reels with the large insert tabs for 120 film, get them, they are very helpful for beginners learning how to get film onto reels.

Get yourself a a graduated beaker or at least a measuring cup with lines for mL and Oz. and a thermometer too.

Thanks Newt on Swings,
Another new term Wetting Agents,
what are they and are they needed?
Thanks,
Ronald

RonaldD said:

So here it goes, all at Henry's in Toronto.
Kodak D-76, 128 oz powder $ 6.99
Kodak Indicator Stop 16 oz $6.99
Kodak Fixer Powder 1 Gal $6.99
Kodak Photo Flo 200 16 oz $8.99
Does this cover the ratio without
buying more of one item?
It also mentions Rapid Fix Hardener; where does that fit in
and do I need it?

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Kodak fixer is the old standard, Most folks these days use Rapid fixer. Kodak makes a rapid fixer which comes with a hardener, they alos make "kodafix soution." It henrys I find the cheaper fix is the Ilford Rapid fix. One bottle makes 5 liters and is twice as fast, also you can mix it up as needed.
the ILFORD RAPID FIXER 1L TO MAKE 5LT Webcode: 420ILF022 is 11.99, while the 500ml Webcode: 420ILF018 is 7.95 so it is a touch cheaper by the liter. I normaly keep the 1 liter bottle in, and buy a new one for stock once I start to use one. It keeps very well.

RonaldD said:

Re- plenisher, I am asking to make sure but
you probably will tell me to forget this for now.

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Replenisher is only practical for Labs that run a lot of film. When you do small quantities it is best to use the developer for one roll and throw it away.

RonaldD said:

Am I missing something as far as chemicals is concerned. Little additive drops of some sort?

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That is the basics, many folks will skip the stop bath for film, but it is used for prints so no harm and it is cheep.

RonaldD said:

All I need now is to find a site either forum or personal
that tells or shows me the steps and what I need to do
and what is not necessary, stuff like to squeege or not to squeege; here is the question
Without having to bother all of you for each individual steps.
Trays and clothespin and what not I ( think ) I will figure that out.
Oh, what kind of cannister and inserts, plastic or metal?
If this is enough to finish a few rolls of BW 24 lenght I can see that once being able to finish this at home is still a lot cheaper than
having it shippped to a lab in Southern Ontario.
Sincerely,
Ronald

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That will provide the chemistry to develop your negs, You will need a tank to develop the film in. (you stick the film in the tank in total darkness, and then you can use the the chemicals in teh light) our pals henrys has the AP UNIVERSAL PLASTIC TANK W/2 REELS Webcode: 348APA005 which is as good as any for a beginner.. you may have to get the local store to get it in for you. To hang the film wooden clothespins will do.

BTW, Don't discount freestyle. I order a bunch of stuff from them a couple of times a year. if you shoot enough film the shipping can be worth it.

RonaldD said:

Another new term Wetting Agents,
what are they and are they needed?

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Wetting agents for film are functionally similar to the "Jet Dry" liquid you use in your dishwasher to keep water spots off your dishes.

Water spots on film can leave visible marks on your final prints that can spoil your image. Using a high grade surfactant in your final rinse makes the water run off cleanly instead of beading up and causing spots.

PhotoFlo 200 is a common wetting agent for film. You mix it up, per the instructions (200 to 1) with clean water then you dunk your film in it for 30 seconds before you hang it up to dry. Just like "Jet Dry" PhotoFlo prevents water spots from forming on your film as they dry.

While virtually everybody would tell you to use a wetting agent for your film, there are different schools of though as to how to proceed.
Some will tell you to just gently shake the film to get the water off then hang up to dry. Others recommend using a sponge, a chamois or a specially made squeegee to wipe exess water off the film first.
My personal method is to attach one end of the film to my clothes line with a film clip then I pull the free end until the film is taut and run my finger over the film to wipe away the water. If you do this method, first make sure your hands are percectly clean and dip a finger in the PhotoFlo before touching the film. Be careful not to use too much pressure lest you scratch the film.

Wetting agents can form an invisible film that builds up on your containers and utensils. Be sure to wash your equipment well with hot water before putting it away to dry.
Some folks recommend an occasional trip through the dishwasher to keep your equipment clean. (Top rack only.) Personally, I don't do that. I just rinse them in a tub of water then rinse under the hot water faucet, shake off the excess then put them in the drying rack.

I too would recommend a non-hardening Rapid Fixer over Kodak regular fixer, unless shipping complexities make it a problem.

I would recommend the Kodak and Ilford Rapid Fixers equally, except the Kodak version is only sold with the hardener, and that little bottle of hardener:

a) is a concentrated (read strong) bottle of a highly acidic liquid; and
b) that little bottle of hardener makes it harder to ship the entire package.

You won't need, and probably won't want hardener with Kodak, Ilford or Fuji films.

Unlike Randy, I don't squeegee films when I hang them to dry. We have very soft water here though.

The links I referred to earlier, and the Horenstein book I referenced, will all answer many if not all of your questions.

Have fun! I have, since I was 11 years old.

The Horenstein Book is definitely guetting puchased.
About the Ap universal tank that holds two 35mm or one 120.
Since I will be finishing only one roll of 35mm at the time and the tank holds two and ( it has to be filled to the top)?
does it mean that I will be using twice the amount that I actually need for the roll?
Ronald

RonaldD said:

The Horenstein Book is definitely guetting puchased.
About the Ap universal tank that holds two 35mm or one 120.
Since I will be finishing only one roll of 35mm at the time and the tank holds two and ( it has to be filled to the top)?
does it mean that I will be using twice the amount that I actually need for the roll?
Ronald

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The bottom of the tank has figures for how much solution to use with what films (to ensure they are covered by the solution).

It has the numbers for 1 roll of 35mm or 126 film (375 ml), 2 rolls of 35mm or 126 film (650 ml), 1 roll of 120 or 220 film (590 ml) and 1 roll of 127 film (460 ml).

Some times you need to use a bit more solution if you are using very dilute chemistry, but generally these numbers will do.

And you may find that you surprise yourself - the ability to develop two rolls at once is very handy.

Thanks Matt,
Ron

MattKing said:

The bottom of the tank has figures for how much solution to use with what films (to ensure they are covered by the solution).

It has the numbers for 1 roll of 35mm or 126 film (375 ml), 2 rolls of 35mm or 126 film (650 ml), 1 roll of 120 or 220 film (590 ml) and 1 roll of 127 film (460 ml).

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Some folks put the empty reel in the top position when they are running one roll just to make sure the reel with the film stays in place. The full reel goes in the bottom of course.

cmacd123 said:

Some folks put the empty reel in the top position when they are running one roll just to make sure the reel with the film stays in place. The full reel goes in the bottom of course.

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Mine came with a clip that holds the bottom reel at the bottom when it is alone in the tank.

Surprisingly, I still have that clip!

For what it is worth, re wetting agent, I use Sprint End Run and am quite thrilled

MattKing said:

Mine came with a clip that holds the bottom reel at the bottom when it is alone in the tank.

Surprisingly, I still have that clip!

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I have made reel spacers using black 35mm film canisters, its easy, holds the single reel at the bottom well, and its one less reel to wash if you do not have those neat clips.

To make, all you have to do is take a old canister, black preferably, (but honestly the clear ones don't match as well lol), stick one reel on the center light blocking column, put the canister on top of the reel, against the column, and use the top of the column as a guide to score the can with a knife. then take off the can and use your knife to cut along the score line, and be sure to remove and sharp surfaces or hanging plastic burrs either with the knife, or by sanding lightly.

You will end up with a open ended tube that you can put on between the bottom reel, and the top of the locking film developing canister, which effectively locks the bottom reel against sliding up. Works well for medium format as well with a smaller spacer.

I have included pics to make this clearer.