Nova Scotia, Cape Bretton, PEI

[Macwax]

I'll be traveling in Maritime Canada in August and would appreciate any suggestions for photographic locations.

Thanks,

John MacKechnie

 

[Pinholemaster]

In the Maritime, every corner you turn can be a photographic location. All three areas have their unique scenery.

I know PEI best. North shore is fun, but don't limit yourself on PEI since it isn't that big. Look out for agricultural fairs. Lots of good people watching opportunities.

 

[copake_ham]

I have many fond memories of both NS and PEI from two bicycle tours my wife and I did a number of years ago.

I do hope you're planning on at least a couple of weeks.

The south shore of NS is similar to Maine with many small fishing villages tucked into coves in a undulating coastline. We biked it, so of course our time concept was a lot slower - but if you take you time you will find fascinating places both natural and also quaint villages (with a "touch of tourist" of course).

The ultimate tourist village is Peggy's Cove - but despite that - it is a spectacular setting and well worth a visit. Before you get there (I'm assuming you're taking the ferry from Portland to Yarmouth) be sure to spend some time in Lunenburg. At the time we were there (almost 20 years ago) it was a down-at-the-heels fishing town - but already you could tell it was going to be "discovered". Lunenburg is where they built the original Bluenose. I'll let you learn more from your tourist brochures.

We very much liked Halifax then -and still recommend it. However, we stopped there on a cruise about two years ago and were surprised how "yuppified" the downtown has gotten. But heck, that means great restaurants and pubs - so it ain't all bad.

Unfortunately, we didn't have time for Cape Breton -it remains high on our "to do" list.

On the west coast you will certainly enjoy the Annapolis Valley. It reminded us of upstate NY - particularly with the apple orchards etc. More agricultural than maritime - it is an interesting contrast from the south shore.

As to PEI - we considered that the last way station before you get to Heaven.

We haven't been there since before they built the Confederation Bridge (oh, the mad dashes to the ferry in the "old days") and hope it hasn't changed too much.

It's really three islands in one. The west side is more sparsely settled and not as well-off. It has been re-newing its Acadian culture and offers a very different "look and feel" from the central and eastern parts.

Central PEI is where the bulk of the population, and most tourist attractions lie. If you are there during the first week of August - check out the fair in Charlottetown (can't remember the name, damnit). It is much like a State Fair but with the added attraction to locals that it is a time when those who've left the Island for fame and fortune - return to visit. So there is a sense of "homecoming".

BTW: I won CDN$5 on one of the horse races while there - so I have particularly fond memories!

The eastern side of PEI is the more maritime side. We arranged to leave our car with a B&B in Murray Harbor during one tour and biked the central and eastern parts from there. MH is itself a wonderful quaint town and exploring the eastern shore is a study in contrasts b/w modern tourism and the old fishing economy. It IS worth going all the way out to East Point just to say you did - and because the lighthouse is cool too!

By the way, while you may find "Anne of Green Gables" thing overdone on parts of the north shore - the PEI National Park is a beautiful stretch of (relatively) unspoined coastline.

August is kind of late for the lobster suppers (as I recall, lobster season ends in June) but if there are any - it's worth doing. They are sponsored as fund raisers by local churches and civic organization and attract a mixed crowd of both tourists and some locals.

Since you will be leaving in August - you will have the opportunity to pick up a few bags of early harvest PEI spuds - do so. They are great - more as "mashers" than "bakers".

As you can tell - I think you have picked great places to visit - so figure on lots of film. Oh, and PEI is a riot of green foliage contrasted with its famous red soil. If there was ever a place for which Kodachrome was invented - PEI is it. Of course Velvia would do well there too!

BTW, it will get cool in August - but pleasantly so. Have fun. I wish I had the time nowadays to get back there myself

 

[David Henderson]

I spent two weeks photographing in Nova Scotia about five years ago. The coast is interesting, much less so inland. I particularly liked the peninsulas and creeks south of Halifax, especially Prospect Harbour;Peggy's Cove before breakfast ( anytime later and its a zoo) Blue Rocks near Lunenburg; nearby South Stonehurst; Along Digby Neck; the Blomidon/Cape Split area. The towns of Lunenburg, Mahone Bay, Shelburne, Annapolis Royal and Wolfville are worth a stop and a walk, if not a lot of film. Halifax is not terribly interesting, photographically or otherwise.

 

[Bluenose Neil]

Atlantic Canada

John:The direction you take will depend on your photographic comfort zone. What would you like to see and photograph. We have a great deal of subject matter to choose from here in Atlantic Canada. Give me a brief interest list and I'll send you in a couple of directions with satisfactory destinations - most certainly. Neil in Lunenburg, ps. any trout jumping in Pa. this month?

 

[luvmydogs]

George - I just want to say that your post makes me want to go there asap! It's been on my and my husband's "to visit" list for a long time and we still haven't made our way to PEI, and we are Canadians!

 

[copake_ham]

George - I just want to say that your post makes me want to go there asap! It's been on my and my husband's "to visit" list for a long time and we still haven't made our way to PEI, and we are Canadians!

 

[areaeleven]

I have just recently moved to Halifax and am enjoying people's suggestions as a new resident/permanent tourist! I have visited Peggy's Cove of course, and this time of year the suggestion to visit before breakfast is a good one. It is a zoo otherwise. I was there in early May and had the place to myself, but this time of year is nutty.

I have also visited Lunenberg a couple of times, a nice little town that has embraced the tourism industry and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. My favourite place so far has been the Cape Split/Blomidon area. I could spend a great deal of time and film there.

When I first arrived I took a couple of months off and got to do some exploring. Now that I have a job my exploring time is limited and miss those days off. But keep those suggestions coming, I love to hear about people's fave spots in the area and will continue to explore as I get time. Wherever you go I think you will be happy.

Oh, and if you're in Halifax and you feel the need for a beer I can always be convinced to meet up I live downtown and have a rubber arm, real easy to twist.

Cheers,
c.

 

[frugal]

I'd definitely recommend the South Shore, Lunenburg is a UNESCO world heritage site (for the old town), docks, harbour, lots of fixed up old victorian houses, etc. Lunenburg academy is incredible. Take the short drive out to blue rocks for a much less touristy fishing village look that will be all but deserted compared to Peggy's Cove (and a different type of rock too). Peggy's Cove is beautiful but that entire area of coast is great and Peggy's Cove is the one area that gets all the "cred", go to Indian Harbour (not far from there) and see the same stuff with no tour busses, or Prospect, or Chester, etc, etc.

If you're hitting Lunenburg then also take some time in Mahone Bay which is also quite beautiful.

I'm a little biased for the South Shore because my family's from there.

For Halifax (my locale, feel free to get in touch for a coffee or something) the waterfront and harbour is nice. If you're on foot, take the ferry over to Dartmouth for a great view of the city (really nice at night and the cheapest "harbour cruise" you'll ever find at $2 each way), citadel hill and the forts at point pleasant park can be worth a look. If you have the time and are interested in forts then take the time to head out Purcell's Cove Rd. to York Redoubt which isn't as visited and has a lot more fortifications (all part of the harbour defences which were active up to WWII in some cases).

Other sites, maybe head to the Annapolis Valley for a different thing, Annapolis Royal is really nice but it's been ages since I've been there. For Cape Breton, it's hard to go wrong wit the Cabot Trail and Louisburg.

Again, feel free to drop me a line for more info or to grab a coffee.

 

[Whiteymorange]

I second the Lunenburg area. Take some time there and go down some of the small byways just out of town. Kingsburg is particularly nice. There is a cemetery there that was for the original German population, right on the beach. 100 families, 100 barns, 100 dory sheds, etc. It's remarkably intact and has a great number of folks working hard to keep it that way. The spit of land called Gaff Point, off Upper Kingsburg Rd., is protected and a wonderful place to walk and take pictures.

 

[DeanC]

Cape Breton Island (especially along the Cabot Trail) is one of the most beautiful hunks of real estate I've ever seen. I've done a couple of motorcycle trips through there and it's just magnificent.

Also, if you happen to be somewhere near where this woman is singing while on your trip, stop in and see the show...

 

[thebanana]

I've never done the Cabot trail, but I hear it's a must.

 

[Macwax]

Wow, I can't wait. I'm going to have to load up on film. We're landing in Yarmouth, heading toward Digby and will be staying for three days in the B & B in the Google Earth photo in the attachment. Then it's off to Dartmouth and the Halifax area via the southern coast. Then we head up to Cape Breton for three days. Three days in PEI and then two in St. Andrews to relax and prepare mentally for the reentry and push back to Bethlehem, PA.

This is actually our backup trip. My wife broke her foot and was advised not to try to do the all Alps trip we had booked. We figured that this would be less strenuous.......and the food is definitely going to be better in the Maritimes.

I've already warned my wife to bring lots of books since I'm bringing all of the cameras.

John MacKechnie

 

[DeanC]

Whatever you do, don't get a nail in the back tire of your motorcycle while camping in Cheticamp on the Saturday morning of Labo(u)r Day weekend...

 

[copake_ham]

John,

Sounds like a great trip - your itinerary brings back many fond memories. Glad to learn from others here that Lunenburg is now a UNESCO heritage site. I can now say, I visited even BEFORE everyone else did!

Post some pics when you get back!