Not Many E6 Shooters - Processing Alternative

Lamar · Jul 26, 2010

I don't see too many slide shooters here. I started shooting slide film about a year ago. (I did some when i was a kid back in the 70's but I can't really count that.) I have just about stopped using C41 since. I noticed several posts looking for E6 labs so I thought I would share some info. I used Dwayne's for my E6 processing and they did a good job but I decided to try developing my own using the Single Use E6 Chemical kit from Kodak. Mainly because the week and a half turnaround time to get my slides back was killing me. I got the kit at Adorama along with some graduated cylinders and a 35mm syringe for smaller measurements. It's really pretty easy to process. I use a GE Roster ($22 at Walmart) with an analogue thermostat to maintain my temperature at 100.4 F, 300ml medicine bottles to hold the chemicals, and a single reel tank from Adorama. Works like a charm. I have developed about 6 rolls now and all of them have come out great. I estimate my cost at about $3.75 per roll to develop and it takes me about 1.5 hours per roll to mix chemicals, stabilize temperature, and complete processing. I have several examples on my website. www.lamarlamb.com

donbga · Jul 26, 2010

Lamar said:
I don't see too many slide shooters here. I started shooting slide film about a year ago. (I did some when i was a kid back in the 70's but I can't really count that.) I have just about stopped using C41 since. I noticed several posts looking for E6 labs so I thought I would share some info. I used Dwayne's for my E6 processing and they did a good job but I decided to try developing my own using the Single Use E6 Chemical kit from Kodak. Mainly because the week and a half turnaround time to get my slides back was killing me. I got the kit at Adorama along with some graduated cylinders and a 35mm syringe for smaller measurements. It's really pretty easy to process. I use a GE Roster ($22 at Walmart) with an analogue thermostat to maintain my temperature at 100.4 F, 300ml medicine bottles to hold the chemicals, and a single reel tank from Adorama. Works like a charm. I have developed about 6 rolls now and all of them have come out great. I estimate my cost at about $3.75 per roll to develop and it takes me about 1.5 hours per roll to mix chemicals, stabilize temperature, and complete processing. I have several examples on my website. www.lamarlamb.com

Please don't post advertisements here.

L Gebhardt · Jul 26, 2010

Don Bryant said:
Please don't post advertisements here.

Don, how is this an ad?

As to the original poster, I have gone from E6 to C41 because I can print in the darkroom as well as get good scans. With E6 I am locked to digital printing. I still shoot some E6 and develop it in a Jobo. How does GE Roaster work for a tempering bath? Is it waterproof? Do you just set it and forget it?

donbga · Jul 26, 2010

L Gebhardt said:
Don, how is this an ad?

As to the original poster, I have gone from E6 to C41 because I can print in the darkroom as well as get good scans. With E6 I am locked to digital printing. I still shoot some E6 and develop it in a Jobo. How does GE Roaster work for a tempering bath? Is it waterproof? Do you just set it and forget it?

Sorry guys, I totally mis-read the message. Mea-culpa.

Don

Bob Carnie · Jul 26, 2010

I think processing ones own E6 is totally do able and good for you being able to do so.
The first service IMO that is going to fade into the sunset are quality E6labs.
I am leaning more to C41 for all my colour work, I like the pallette more than Transparancy but many, many photographers swear that Trans is the way to go.
If you are getting good contrast and colour , don't change a thing.

Lamar · Jul 26, 2010

It's basically a large crock pot. The pan is removable and washable. I experimented to find the right temperature setting on the rheostat and marked it. I put the water in at as close to 100.4 F as i can get then just pay attention to the temperature and tweak as necessary. Here is a picture of the setup.

http://www.lamarlamb.com/Things/Hi-ISO-Examples/4657963_nHxiM#948545069_mwgyG

I only print digital. At some point I'd like to try doing real prints. I don't think I have any room left in the house for a real darkroom though

L Gebhardt said:
Don, how is this an ad?

As to the original poster, I have gone from E6 to C41 because I can print in the darkroom as well as get good scans. With E6 I am locked to digital printing. I still shoot some E6 and develop it in a Jobo. How does GE Roaster work for a tempering bath? Is it waterproof? Do you just set it and forget it?

donbga · Jul 26, 2010

Lamar,

Sorry I totally misread your message this morning after a short nights sleep and no glasses on and in a rush.

Please accept my apology for being a nit wit.

Don

wblynch · Jul 27, 2010

Lamar, those pictures of Mel's crack me up. It looks exactly like the Mel's Diner in San Rafael, California circa 1968.

Great photos by the way.

-Bill L.

Marco B · Jul 27, 2010

Thanks for sharing these ideas. I have vaguely been thinking of doing my own E6 development, but always had the idea it would be too cumbersome. Your simple setup and reported good results make me think otherwise. This is a no-frill, low tech solution I could implement with my limited darkroom space...

Lamar · Jul 29, 2010

I moved the images linked below to a new location:

http://www.lamarlamb.com/On-Film/Technical-Stuff/Developing-Slides/13127177_PneAp#948545069_mwgyG

Lamar said:
It's basically a large crock pot. The pan is removable and washable. I experimented to find the right temperature setting on the rheostat and marked it. I put the water in at as close to 100.4 F as i can get then just pay attention to the temperature and tweak as necessary. Here is a picture of the setup.

http://www.lamarlamb.com/Things/Hi-ISO-Examples/4657963_nHxiM#948545069_mwgyG

I only print digital. At some point I'd like to try doing real prints. I don't think I have any room left in the house for a real darkroom though

patois · Aug 28, 2010

I bought the chems to do my E-6 in highschool but never did it because I worried about the temperature not being consistent.

IloveTLRs · Aug 28, 2010

I've been meaning to do my own E-6 for a while now (C-41 too, even) but I've never gotten around to it. I also thought that it would be too difficult.

I don't shoot much color, and I was under the impression that E-6 chemicals (especially) must be used quickly before they spoil.

atlcruiser · Aug 30, 2010

I am ready to start my E6 adventure. I just bought the Hamilton Beach roaster..got the idea from the OPs website I want to try the Arista E6 kit from Freestyle. Initial investment is not too bad. I hope to get about 50 rolls out of the kit so average price should be around $1.75 per roll.

I have a wonderful, quick and more or less cheap local E6 1 hour lab within 10 minutes of my office but I want the control and the experience of doing it myself. I am also cheap!

Lookng for a source for bulk purchase of E6 film...any suggesstions? Right now looks like Freestyle is the best deal I can find.

lensworker · Nov 13, 2010

I used to process my own Fuji Velvia ISO 50 in the kitchen sink. Tepmerature regulation was accomplished by adding warm or cold water to the sink as needed. The idea of using an electric roaster is something I never though of myself - good idea!

To all who want to process E6 at home, it is TOTALLY doable. The only really critical steps are temperature control during first developer and color developer. After that, you have more leeway regarding temp.

As for printing, you can print from E6 transparencies using Ilfochrome paper & chemistry. It is not much different from B&W printing.

I'm no darkroom superhero - anyone who wants to do E6 processing and Ilfochrome printing can do it. Don't let these processes intimidate you is my advice.

Nowadays, I'm shooting Kodak Tri-X almost exclusively. I'm doing alot of documentary work as opposed to landscape and travel when I was shooting mostly Velvia. I haven't forsaken Velvia - I'm just using alot of Tri-X for my current projects.

I'm also in the process of designing and constructing my own darkroom at home. I am totally committed to film - I have no interest in digital. In fact, I don't own even one digital camera, not even a pocket digital. Digital is just not for me; film, paper and chemistry are what I enjoy using. I love the results and the process.

Diapositivo · Nov 14, 2010

Tri-X said:
The only really critical steps are temperature control during first developer and color developer. After that, you have more leeway regarding temp.

As far as I know, colour development is also a process "to completion", just like all other E6 baths excluded the first development.

That means that critical temperature control is required only for first development. All subsequent baths being "too completion", they cannot be overdone. In case of doubt about correct temperature of any bath from the second on, just prolong treatment time to be sure that the treatment goes "to completion". Past "completion" nothing happens so there is no way you can make a mistake for excess of treatment.

The real problem with colour development is that in order to have repeatable results one must reach during the first development bath not only a stable temperature, but also a constant agitation. That does not just mean constant within each treatment, but also constant among several treatments. Agitation, like temperature and time, affects development, so once you find the right temperature/time/agitation combination, you should be able to repeat the treatment using that same temperature/time/agitation combination.

This is why people like so much rotary processors for colour processing, they allow to adopt an agitation pattern which is exactly repeatable between processes.

If you want to try colour development without a rotary processor my advice is to use one of those tanks which have a "pivot" outside the cap which rotates the reels inside the tank.

That would allow you to place the tank in a temperature controlled bath, and to agitate it (using a "back and forth" pattern preferably) with a perfectly repeatable agitation pattern, without ever taking the tank out of the warm water.

This is not to say colour development is not feasible with different means. It means it is easier with the right means.

Fabrizio

lensworker · Nov 16, 2010

Consistent agitation is key

Diapositivo, you are correct about agitation. Consistent tank agitation can make or break your developing results - this is stressed in the instructions that come with E6 developer kits.

Regarding agitation, all I ever did was to follow the instructions as provided by Kodak or Tetenal. I agitated by hand, for ____ seconds initially and for ____ inversion cycles every ____ seconds during processing.

I was always pleased with the results of my efforts.

GRHazelton · Nov 18, 2010

I'll have to try E-6. I remember processing roughly 100 feet of Ekatachrome shot during a trip to London and Paris in the spring of 1976. I'm not sure which process that was; I don't think that 100 was the first and color developer temperature. I used a 5 or 6 reel stainless reel tank; no problems. As others have said, consistency is key as it is in developing BW film.

Anyone else remember E-2? The reversal was accomplished with a PHOTOFLOOD

donbga · Nov 18, 2010

Tri-X said:
Diapositivo, you are correct about agitation. Consistent tank agitation can make or break your developing results - this is stressed in the instructions that come with E6 developer kits.

Regarding agitation, all I ever did was to follow the instructions as provided by Kodak or Tetenal. I agitated by hand, for ____ seconds initially and for ____ inversion cycles every ____ seconds during processing.

I was always pleased with the results of my efforts.

Just an FYI, a good friend here locally uses the Kodak E-6 kits and keeps the developer bottles topped off with Argon. He uses the same gizmo that people use to preserve opened wine bottles.

Don

GRHazelton · Apr 5, 2011

Return to E 6 wet work....

Since my post in November I've scored a pretty complete Pentax 645n kit plus a Kindermann 6 x 6 projector. Scanning the web almost no one offers E6 processing for 120 film with mounting. So, maybe I'll go back to DIY.

Kodak seems to have left the market for DIY kits. I've noticed that both Arista and Tetenal are three bath systems rolling the last three solutions - pre bleach, bleach, and fixer into one. The 100 feet of E4 ? that I did almost 35 years ago still look fine. Does anyone have any life span reports on Arista or Tetenal?

As I recall Kodak was adamant about the first developer temperature, around 100 F +- 1/2 degree, I think. The others were to be held at a similar temp, but not as critical. The Arista info gives time/temps for 70 to 105 !! with no temp tolerances metioned. They do hint that 70 will show density and color shifts. 105 times are bolded, is this what they really want?

Tetenal gives times only for 100 +- 1/2 degree. This seems safer.

I'd appreciate any words of wisdom, shared experiences, or links to good advice.

Thanks!

donbga · Apr 5, 2011

George in Georgia US said:
Since my post in November I've scored a pretty complete Pentax 645n kit plus a Kindermann 6 x 6 projector. Scanning the web almost no one offers E6 processing for 120 film with mounting. So, maybe I'll go back to DIY.

Kodak seems to have left the market for DIY kits. I've noticed that both Arista and Tetenal are three bath systems rolling the last three solutions - pre bleach, bleach, and fixer into one. The 100 feet of E4 ? that I did almost 35 years ago still look fine. Does anyone have any life span reports on Arista or Tetenal?

As I recall Kodak was adamant about the first developer temperature, around 100 F +- 1/2 degree, I think. The others were to be held at a similar temp, but not as critical. The Arista info gives time/temps for 70 to 105 !! with no temp tolerances metioned. They do hint that 70 will show density and color shifts. 105 times are bolded, is this what they really want?

Tetenal gives times only for 100 +- 1/2 degree. This seems safer.

I'd appreciate any words of wisdom, shared experiences, or links to good advice.

Thanks!

Since you are in Georgia, E-6 in Atlanta will process your 120 film for $8 (unmounted). I think you will have a difficult time finding a lab that will mount 120 slides these days.

There used to be 5 or 6 labs (possibly more) in metro Atlanta that processed Ektachrome, now 1 remains. So finding a lab that will mount 120 will probably be impossible.

Don

GRHazelton · Apr 8, 2011

There used to be 5 or 6 labs (possibly more) in metro Atlanta that processed Ektachrome, now 1 remains. So finding a lab that will mount 120 will probably be impossible.

Don[/QUOTE]

Don, I'm afraid you're right. I've searched the web from coast to coast and haven't found a one that will mount 120, regardless of format. 35mm is no problem. Oh well, if I can find a reasonably priced source for 6x45 mounts I'll do it myself.

Always one to pursue the road less taken, I've just bought a Busch Pressman C, the 2 x 3 baby. Forget color, I'll have to stick to BW for this cutie.

Not Many E6 Shooters - Processing Alternative

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