None pyro dev. for Pt/Pd printing

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Ingemar

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Hi!
I am in the beginning of learning Pt/Pd process. I want a film/development combo that not include Pyro. I´ve heard that pyro is a bit tricky for a beginner. I think that kodak films are rather expensive. I´ve read god things about Ilford FP4+. Mayby i can get some tips about overdev. and decreasing the exposure to get a negativ suitable for Pt/Pd process. I dev. in trays.
I be very glad for a an answer.
Best regards.
Inge
Escuse my bad englich!
 

Ian Grant

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Ilford PQ Universal is an excellent clean working developer for making higher contrast negatives for alternative processes. Have a look at the data-sheet for Ilford Ortho Plus times are quite similar for FP4+

Welcome to APUG BTW and apart from the "Escuse my bad englich!" your English is excellent :D

Ian
 

rwyoung

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If your English reading skills are reasonably sharp, get a copy of "The Book of Pyro" by Gordon Hutchings. You may not get into using Pyro developers right away but it is a good read and will help you make a decision.

If you have a sense of adventure, mixing your own formulas isn't that difficult. Just be careful. And again, I don't know what resources are available to you but you can buy formulas like Pyrocat-HD pre-mixed from various sources.

PQ is pretty good stuff and should be widely available, one might even say universally available. There is a pun for you to help you practice the subtleties and vagaries of English. :smile:

Part of alternative printing is about experimenting. Have fun and make detailed notes as you experiment with your developers and printing.
 

Jim Noel

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D-76 and HC 110 dil A also work well to produce negatives with a scale for platinum/palladium. If you us e HC-110 dil A at the same time and temperature as for dil B your negatives should be in the ball park for platinum.
 

Vaughn

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I use Ian's combination of FP4+ and PQ Universal Developer with success for Pt/pd negatives. I find that I can adjust the dilution easily to control contrast...usually 1:15 to 1:25 depending on the contrast of the original scene, with development times of 5 to 10 minutes (at 20C). I use a Jobo drum for most negs, but if I have large areas of even tonality (such as skies), I prefer to use trays.

Vaughn
 

FredW

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I think almost any developer will do, I have used ID-11, XTOL, mixed my own D-23, when I wanted plus development. For me basically, I gave normal scenes plus development for Platinum/Palladium will get you reasonably close. You just have to watch the highlights do not block up. I have been using Pyrocat HD for most of my sheet films, I also develop in a tray, by shuffling. I use the 2:2:100 ratio, as I was finding the development times for 1:1:100 were just too long for me.

Fred.
 

JBrunner

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You do not have to use a Pyro developer to make negatives that are good for Pt/Pd. Almost any developer will do. The big advantage to pyro is being able to make a negative that will print well on silver or or alt process, essentially offering a different density curve with the different spectrum. With a conventional developer, just process for bulletproof to start, and adjust from there, you'll have it dialed in a short time.
 

nze

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I second ilford PQ , Terry king introduce me to this developer and I keep on using it for my platinum palladium.
 
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