No more stop bath

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Joseph said:
The Film Developing Cookbook, pg 103, suggests that a water stop bath will allow shadows to continue to develop (while highlighs do not) and can also enhance adjacency effects.

Has anyone found this to be true ???

I guess the developer is more active in the highlight areas, and will exhaust faster there. There is a developing technique called the water bath method, which is used to lower contrast, where film is alternated between water bath and developer, 1 min in each, back and forth. In the water, the highlights will stop developing almost immediately, while it will take longer for the developer to exhaust in the dark values, which will effectively decrease contrast. Used only when extreme contrast is photographed.
I guess it's along the same lines.

- Thomas
 

BarrieB

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Joseph said:
The Film Developing Cookbook, pg 103, suggests that a water stop bath will allow shadows to continue to develop (while highlighs do not) and can also enhance adjacency effects.

Has anyone found this to be true ???
No I have not tried it, It may work if the water was still, like stand or two bath developing, however if running water is used surely any developer left over in the emulsion would very quickly be washed away or diluted.
Barrie B.
 

Ole

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Joseph said:
The Film Developing Cookbook, pg 103, suggests that a water stop bath will allow shadows to continue to develop (while highlighs do not) and can also enhance adjacency effects.

Has anyone found this to be true ???

I wonder how this could be tested...

Two identical films with identical exposure and identical processing - OK. Can do that.

Then dump one in (still) water for 30 seconds, the other in (still) stop for 30 seconds. OK - can do that.

Then fixing in separate baths of identical fixer for the same time. Sorry - no can do. ne emulsion has been acidified, and will react differently to the fixer for the first (crucial) seconds.

Acidic rapid fixer tends to bleach the image slightly more than neutral to alkaline fixer does. This is especially obvious where there is least image - in the shadow areas of film and highlights of paper.

How can you tell what is due to what? Whether one had "developed further" or one has "bleached back"?
 

Kirk Keyes

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Why don't you test your rapid fixer and see how fast it bleaches your neg - and if it is significant. Or why not use a neutral fixer for both films.
 

Donald Qualls

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Or, for purposes of the test, why not simply use the same conventional acid fixer for both? If the question is about whether stop bath stops development faster than water, it's obvious it should -- acidifying chemistry that only works in an alkaline environment is faster than simply diluting it until you can't detect the reaction rate. What happens in the fixer should be pretty much the same (at least for the first negative in fresh fixer) after the stop or "water stop" step. If you're that concerned about it, give both negs a second bath in acid stop so they enter the fixer in the same condition.

However, there are other considerations -- an acid stop used with a carbonate alkali developer runs a risk of gas generation damaging the gelatin, but once the stop (or short wash) is completed, there's still the question of whether to use acid fixer or neutral/alkaline fixer. It's been strongly asserted, with what seems good chemical basis, that neutral to mildly alkaline fixers and, indeed, an all-alkaline process are better for emulsion, but there may still be a need to precisely stop development.

One suggestion I've seen is to use a lower pH stop bath with a buffer providing a reserve of acidity -- sodium acetate buffering an acetic acid bath will have lower pH than the common 1.3% acetic acid stop, yet has (potentially, depending on concentrations) much larger reserve of acidity against neutralization by alkali carried from the developer, and is less prone to form gas on reaction with carbonate (because it's less strongly acidic). In fact, I wonder if it might not be possible to use unacidified (and thus very mildly alkaline) straight sodium acetate solution as a near-neutral stop -- still stopping the development, but without an acid that can change the gelatin state.
 

Ole

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I'm merely pointing out that it will be impossible to tell the difference between the effects of stopped/continued development and the effects of different subsequent emulsion pH.

On second thougt - if both samples were washed for five minutes in running water between "stop" and fixer, it should be possible to determine. I didn't think of that!
 
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