No Manual Control For Canon A1

[Ellis666]

Hi I'm Ellis, 17, this is my first post so I'm sorry if it's in the wrong place.

I have a Canon A1 I bought several months ago with a 135mm F2, I had spend alot of time fixing the shutter, mirror and mode selector and it worked perfectly every time I used it however recently I have noticed a problem. When I select the manual mode, the camera will not close the iris to what I have selected if it will result in underexposure, also the small 'M' light does not appear in the viewfinder. I use flash alot now it gets dark early and this means I cannot use this camera as it will overexpose everything. SOMETIMES the 'M' light DOES show when the flash has loaded and only when, I have no idea why this is happening.

Also, When I was fixing it I did not effect any electronics as far as I know, I did remove the top plate twice but I can't see this effecting the manual mode in anyway.

I've spent along time fixing this camera and really want to be able to use it so if anybody could help it would be great!

 

[AgX]

Are you sure it is not a mechanical fault (on either side) between lens and body and that manual-mode indicator plunger assembly.

Did you repeatedly check that manual-mode indicator switch, by poking into that respective hole in the mount?

 

[Ellis666]

Thanks for the reply! I know it's not the lense(s) as they all work perfectly on my AE1 (24, 50 and 135) and is this plunger the on that tells the camera maximum aperture or the one on the other side because non seem to effect what I see in the viewfinder at all.

I have just noticed that there is a smaller plunger on the mount that is pushed in by a pin on the lens, when the lens is set to 'A'; I'm assuming this tells the camera NOT to use 'M' mode and that infact mine is permanently stuck thinking the lens is in 'A' mode.

 

[AgX]

I was refering to that latter plunger, just indicating the mode.

It should be flush with the flange when you look at it.


And... "welcome to Apug"

 

[AgX]

Maybe you lost that spring that pushes it to the front, the plunger now erratically actuating the switch.

(I have not looked deeper into the issue or that plunger assembly, just a guess!)

 

[Ellis666]

Oh ok, it does sit flush and presses in correctly but has no effect; I've tried pressing it on my AE1 and it changes the mode from M to AE modes so I'm now pretty sure the problem lies with what's on the other side of this plunger on my A1, thanks for helping me figure this out! Now comes the hard part of fixing it haha, any suggestions!?

And thanks, seems like an interesting place

 

[Ellis666]

I've just taken the mount and cover off and found the bar that the pin pushes down, it seemed to spring back perfectly and looked exactly the same as it does on my AE1; I assume you have to remove the shutter mech to look further behind the pin which I am not doing, it seems fine so I assume the problem is somewhere else unfortunately :/

 

[AgX]

You should check the respective switch. If it works fine, then it is for you to go into the electronics. (But I will be out of the game then...)

 

[gone]

You can buy these cameras for probably $30. It's not worth all the time and effort to go on anymore w/ yours. Once the electronics start to go w/ these cameras.....

That lens deserves a better body anyway. Either an F1, a T90, or my personal choice, an FT QL or FTb, especially if you want to go full manual. Either of the last two are about 90% of an F1 for most people's purposes, and are a lot cheaper to buy. An AE-1 Program has a full manual feature too, sorta, along w/ the AE/Program modes.

 

[AgX]

Well, 30$ is money too. And that other sample is likely not mint either. And there still is that option of making one from two.

 

[trythis]

a1 is a nice little lightweight camera compared to the f series. Its too bad they are built like sony walkmans. I finally fixed mine but it had a different issue si I am no help here.

 

[Ellis666]

Yeah I have little faith I could fix any electronic problems to be honest, might just have to deal with the way it is...

And momus, I am looking to buy a Nikon F3 or maybe even go to rangefinder in time, I've probably got about 10 35mm cameras and these canons are the first that I actually put value to, because it was only a few months ago I started shooting film regularly; I know they're not great or anything but the A1 is the best camera, TO USE, I've ever had as it has everything I want.

I rarely use the 135mm as I prefer the 24 and 50 but I keep it as I got it for cheap and I know it's a great lens. I got the A1, AE1, 24, 50, 135 and crappy vivitar 70-200 for £75 which I know I could sell on to buy a good body, I was considering saving for a few weeks for a Leica m2 but I know it would very rarely leave my house :/

 

[AgX]

I got several A's and T's. The FD-System is worth considering sticking too. One advantage is the short built of the bodies, meaning that you got a good chance to use other brand lenses with a respective adapter (typically in all-Manual mode) and still yield infinity, which makes the System even more versatile.

The T-90 has a great design concerning holding. And aside of other features a metering system alike the great Gossen Profisix meter (a meter you will come across sooner or later).

 

[Ellis666]

I hate canon digital systems but the analogue cameras seem great, yet again I have little frame of reference so what do I know. I originally wanted a F3 when I started looking for higher level cameras but ended up with the A1 which I guess was a kind of lucky impulse buy. An F3 would be further useful as I could use the ais lenses on my digital system, manual exposure isn't something I really see as an inconvenience (no metering).

I've been looking at the Canon P and 7 recently which seem like really nice cameras, might buy a crappy rangefinder from a charity shop and see if I like the feel/shooting process.

 

[John Koehrer]

The switch is mechanical. If the plunger is works unfortunately the problem lies within.
There are a series of switch contacts on the side of the mirror box that may be dirty, even a broken land or pinched wire.

The high end cameras didn't give any different results, but longer life.
Many amateurs began with the AE1 and went from there.
The T90 was basically an A1 with a winder.

 

[flavio81]

Hi I'm Ellis, 17, this is my first post so I'm sorry if it's in the wrong place.

I have a Canon A1 I bought several months ago with a 135mm F2, I had spend alot of time fixing the shutter, mirror and mode selector and it worked perfectly every time I used it however recently I have noticed a problem. When I select the manual mode, the camera will not close the iris to what I have selected if it will result in underexposure, also the small 'M' light does not appear in the viewfinder. I use flash alot now it gets dark early and this means I cannot use this camera as it will overexpose everything. SOMETIMES the 'M' light DOES show when the flash has loaded and only when, I have no idea why this is happening.

Also, When I was fixing it I did not effect any electronics as far as I know, I did remove the top plate twice but I can't see this effecting the manual mode in anyway.

I've spent along time fixing this camera and really want to be able to use it so if anybody could help it would be great!

Hi Ellis!! I'm Flavio, 33. Nice lens you have. I am also an electronics hobbyst since i was about 15 years old and have owned the Canon A-1 as well, and a lot of FD lenses.

If you can locate the micro-switch that senses the pin that protrudes with the lens when the lens is set to "A", then perhaps you can see if the switch itself is bad or there is other problem. However, i think that the problem could be most likely a "cold solder joint" (google it) or corrosion between connectors. Remember that the A-1 has many ICs that have to communicate together.

And momus, I am looking to buy a Nikon F3 or maybe even go to rangefinder in time, I've probably got about 10 35mm cameras and these canons are the first that I actually put value to, because it was only a few months ago I started shooting film regularly; I know they're not great or anything but the A1 is the best camera, TO USE, I've ever had as it has everything I want

Careful with the Nikon F3. Their electronics are not more reliable as the ones in the Canon A-1. I owned an A-1, no problems save for the "shutter squeal" syndrome which is very easy to fix. The photometer of my Nikon F3 died suddenly, does not work anymore and one tech could not repair it (i'll have to go for a second opinion). Two of the Nikon F3 i found here on the used market had an electronics problem, while most un-battered Canon A-1s here had pretty OK electronics. In the electronics game, Canon > Nikon, at least for the late 70s cameras. Nikon only achieved bulletproof electronics on the Nikon FE2 and later cameras. OTOH the Nikon FE is a good camera (i own one as well), and seems to be more reliable tha the F3, so go for it. For the ultimate Nikon get the F or the F2.

Stick with the FD system. I sold all my Canon FD lenses and switched to Nikon manual focus lenses. Two weeks ago, i found a mint Canon EF camera and now i'm buying Canon FD lenses again. I believe that Canon was the best japanese optical manufacturer during the 70s and 80s; better than Nikon and the rest. However, i like Nikon cameras a bit more.

If you want a good Canon FD-lens camera these are my recommendations:

- Canon EF
- Canon F1 (old or new)
- Canon FTb
- Canon FT, FX, TX

all these are good camera bodies, in my order of preference. They have mechanical shutters, or hybrid shutters (in the case of the EF and the New F1).

My top pick is the EF, F1 and the FTb. All those three are great. I used to love the Canon A-1 but the ones i've listed have better build quality and feel. If you want a capable and reliable electronic canon there is the T70. But it is ugly as hell. The T90 is amazing but they are very expensive nowadays, and sometimes the LCD display has faded down.

Finally, a tip: Don't overlook the Canon FL lenses. There are some hidden jewels there, some that don't exist in FD equivalent.

 

[flavio81]

but the A1 is the best camera, TO USE, I've ever had as it has everything I want

I liked the A-1 a lot, sold many pictures shot with it, used it for years and was very happy with it. However there were some things i didn't like:

1) On manual mode you can't see what's the aperture you are using unless you take out the eye from your viewfinder.

2) After stopping down, you need to do the special "reset" procedure or else the automation won't work and you will see "EEEEE" on the viewfinder. The procedure is detailed in the manual (press the multiple-exposure lever and move the film advance lever)

3) Top and bottom are plastic, not metal

4) Had a bit higher battery consumption than the Canon AE-1 whose batteries seemed to last forever.

5) You need to turn it off to save batteries...

The things i liked:

1) that LED display is beautiful and comfortable in the eye.

2) ...and you can disable it, for maximum concentration!!

3) easy way to lock the speed dial

4) ultra-sensitive SPC meter which gives you 90% perfect exposures once you use the exposure compensation dial tips indicated on the manual.

5) low shutter and mirror shock

6) it is quite a beauty!

7) the way of switching between P, A, S, M modes is a thing of genius

 

[Ellis666]

Flavio, thanks for taking the time to read and share your knowledge dude! I have taken the mount and cover off to look at the pin, the lever thing under it feels exactly the same as on my AE1, which is why I believe it is electrical however on my AE1, it stays in manual mode until that pin is pushed in and on my A1 it is stuck in some way as it acts as if the pin is constantly being pushed down; I have little electrical knowledge but I imagined an electrical fault such as a unresponsive contact would cause it be constantly be stuck in a state where the plunger is not being pushed no? When I took the top plate off to fix the stuck Av/Tv switch (which takes forever(twice)) I saw some scary looking circuit boards which I would imagine are connected to the exposure mode dictated by the plunger on the mount? If I can find the problem there I will throw some solder on it with my year 9 soldering skills.

I agree with your points on the A1, I use aperture priority in sunlight alot of the time and the read out in the viewfinder is the clearer than alot of digital systems however on the AE1 you can only the see shutter speed in the viewfinder when there are highlights behind the strip of shutter stops.

I will probably not sell my canon eqpt for a while as I have the perfect set of lenses for my use, a new camera seems to be the obvious route so I will check everything you have suggested, for some reason I love the all black canons, they are so clean looking and slick ahah.

 

[Dennis S]

Yes a thing of beauty:

 

[EdColorado]

Ellis, if you end up needing a part for that A1 let me know, I think I have a couple of junk bodies around here and might have what you need.

 

[Ellis666]

Yes a thing of beauty:

Nice Piece looks great w/ the grip!

Here's mine when I received it vs now, really reflects on how little everyone else was willing to bid on it

Not sure how much it has improved on the inside though haha

 

[Ellis666]

Ellis, if you end up needing a part for that A1 let me know, I think I have a couple of junk bodies around here and might have what you need.

Thanks man! I have my AE1 which is think should be a suitable donor, I'm gonna take the top plate off and have a look around later and hope I can fix it for now.

 

[trythis]

I got to like the a1 ae1 grip so much that I switched to the nikon fa and fg over other bodies after I was having trouble with my a1. What swayed me to stay with nikon was the easy aperture priority. I still think the a1 is more comfortable.

 

[John Koehrer]

Your description of the plunger not working. Compared to the AE suggests a sticky lever/switch.
Before getting in the I'd try a drop( or two) of alcohol on the plunger and working it. Can't hurt.

I don't think you're going to find many common parts between the AE and A cameras though. Most will be mechanical
like the mirror governor.

 

[Dennis S]

You should try to find an MA power winder as it adds another shutter button with lots of extra battery power. I have never found one of the smaller battery packs (4x)to do much in the way of extra performance. With the 12 battery packs I can run mine for 30 rolls or 6 months without charging my eneloop batteries. The extra weight is not a big deal for me..(6'-140lbs). The MAs I have found available seem to have less wear on them than the smaller ones. With the 135/3.5 lens and MA winder is a good day of exercise even if you don't use it.