No Hypo-Clear. Part II

Bullring

A
Bullring

  • 2
  • 0
  • 35
Corrib river, Galway

A
Corrib river, Galway

  • 4
  • 0
  • 86
Double S

A
Double S

  • 7
  • 2
  • 116

Recent Classifieds

Forum statistics

Threads
199,509
Messages
2,792,589
Members
99,928
Latest member
digitalFan
Recent bookmarks
1

Mike Kennedy

Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2005
Messages
1,594
Location
Eastern Cana
Format
Multi Format
Roger Hicks mentioned that if my fixer contained a hardening agent then a simple water wash (no hypo-clear) might be problematic.
I use Kodak Pro.Rapid Fixer. A two part formula. Can I just eliminate the addition of the 6oz. bottle of hardener?

Dazed and Confused
 

Tom Hoskinson

Member
Joined
Mar 7, 2004
Messages
3,867
Location
Southern Cal
Format
Multi Format
Mike Kennedy said:
Roger Hicks mentioned that if my fixer contained a hardening agent then a simple water wash (no hypo-clear) might be problematic.
I use Kodak Pro.Rapid Fixer. A two part formula. Can I just eliminate the addition of the 6oz. bottle of hardener?

Dazed and Confused

Yes!
 

Sparky

Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2005
Messages
2,096
Location
Los Angeles
Format
Multi Format
If you're talking about film, I don't know if I'd risk it. I'd say USE the hardener, and make some hypoclear by dissolving table salt in water (sea salt would be better - I wonder what the iodine in table salt might do? probably nothing).

But if you're talkin' paper... I'd say leave the hardener OUT - you shouldn't be using it anyway. Unless you like cracked prints.
 

PhotoJim

Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2005
Messages
2,314
Location
Regina, SK, CA
Format
35mm
Strictly speaking, it isn't going to cause your film any problem to avoid using a hypo clearing agent... *as long as* you extend the wash accordingly. If you don't use HCA, you will need a very long wash (I'd have to research it, it's been so long since I've done this... probably an hour or more) to get the same level of archival stability that you can get with a one-minute rinse, a 2-minute HCA step and a 15-minute wash.

The only exception is if you use an all-alkaline process. If you absolutely insist upon avoiding HCA and you don't want to waste all of the time and water that a long wash requires, use an alkaline fixer and a running water stop bath.

If you are going to use an acid fixer, though, use HCA. The cost of the chemical is insignificant compared to the time and water saved.
 

donbga

Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2003
Messages
3,053
Format
Large Format Pan
Sparky said:
If you're talking about film, I don't know if I'd risk it. I'd say USE the hardener, and make some hypoclear by dissolving table salt in water (sea salt would be better - I wonder what the iodine in table salt might do? probably nothing).

But if you're talkin' paper... I'd say leave the hardener OUT - you shouldn't be using it anyway. Unless you like cracked prints.
You don't need the hardener for film or paper. I've not used it in years.
 

lee

Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2002
Messages
2,911
Location
Fort Worth T
Format
8x10 Format
I agree with the no hardener posts. In particular Don Bryant.

lee\c
 

Michel Hardy-Vallée

Membership Council
Subscriber
Joined
Apr 2, 2005
Messages
4,793
Location
Montréal, QC
Format
Multi Format
Even with Efke, notorious for soft emulsion, I haven't used a hardener for a long time now, so ditch the hardener.
 
Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links.
To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here.

PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Ilford ADOX Freestyle Photographic Stearman Press Weldon Color Lab Blue Moon Camera & Machine
Top Bottom