No Exposure :-(

[Darryl Roberts]

I shot four sheets of Kodak Portra 400, I loaded the film in total darkness, notches bottom left. I was careful to remove the dark slide and replace it after shooting. My shutter is working well.

The lab, https://colorresourcecenter.com told me that the film wasn't exposed.

I called a friend who is a darkroom master, http://www.automateddarkroom.net/ he asked what aperture. I said f/22, that's what my Sekonic meter read, yes I was shooting with a strobe. Then he asked, what shutter speed, 1/200. He said that's the problem, and anything over 1/60 won't register.

I trust him but am perplexed. I thought the shutter only effected the ambient, which I wanted none of.

Please help.

Thank you

 

[MattKing]

What type of shutter were you using?

 

[Darryl Roberts]

What type of shutter were you using?

I'm currently not at home to look at it. I do know it's a shutter that has two sets of apertures, which I found is because it's a convertible lens it has different apertures for each. I shot with the main lens and it's corresponding aperture numbers. Caltar 150mm

 

[MattKing]

It really is a question about the particular shutter your lens is installed into. So more details would help a lot.
Have you successfully used electronic flash with this shutter before?

 

[Darryl Roberts]

I'll let you know when I get home, in about four hours.

 

[mshchem]

If it's a older shutter it probably has multiple flash synchronization settings M, and F synchronization is for old flashbulbs, this actually fires the bulb before the shutter opens. X is the correct sync for electronic flash.

This all assumes you have a in lens leaf shutter. If you are using a Speed Graphic with a focal plane shutter it gets more complicated.

 

[Darryl Roberts]

I'm using an Interfit Honey Badger, I'll check the shutter when I get in.

 

[removed account4]

what was your flash set at and the distance from your subject? maybe you just didnt' have enough light to expose the film.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Did you pull the dark slide?

 

[Darryl Roberts]

what was your flash set at and the distance from your subject? maybe you just didnt' have enough light to expose the film.

Full power which yielded f/22 on the Sekonic at 400 ISO

 

[Darryl Roberts]

Did you pull the dark slide?

Yes.

 

[Darryl Roberts]

It really is a question about the particular shutter your lens is installed into. So more details would help a lot.
Have you successfully used electronic flash with this shutter before?

Copal 0, the M/X selector was on M

 

[shutterfinger]

1. READ all posts thoroughly before posting.
2. I use a Gossen Ultra Spot. In flash mode it adds mutiple flash fires unless reset.
3. A leaf shutter set to X flash sync should register an exposure at all speeds however faster shutter speeds may be under exposed due to the fast speed.
4. I load film holders with the load end up in portrait position so the notch code is top right, portrait position load flap bottom appears to be what you are using.
5. M sync fires the flash 15 to 17 milliseconds before the shutter opens so the flash bulb reaches usable light output when the shutter reaches full open. F sync fires the flash bulb 5 milliseconds before the shutter reaches full open. It can be used for electronic flash but an extra 1.2 to 1 stop exposure may be needed. X sync fires the flash when the shutter reaches full open.

Copal 0, the M/X selector was on M

Light from a strobe had fallen below usable levels by the time the shutter opened fully. Careful examination of the negatives in bright light at an angle to the negative may reveal a ghost image.

 

[Darryl Roberts]

1. READ all posts thoroughly before posting.
2. I use a Gossen Ultra Spot. In flash mode it adds mutiple flash fires unless reset.
3. A leaf shutter set to X flash sync should register an exposure at all speeds however faster shutter speeds may be under exposed due to the fast speed.
4. I load film holders with the load end up in portrait position so the notch code is top right, portrait position load flap bottom appears to be what you are using.
5. M sync fires the flash 15 to 17 milliseconds before the shutter opens so the flash bulb reaches usable light output when the shutter reaches full open. F sync fires the flash bulb 5 milliseconds before the shutter reaches full open. It can be used for electronic flash but an extra 1.2 to 1 stop exposure may be needed. X sync fires the flash when the shutter reaches full open.

Light from a strobe had fallen below usable levels by the time the shutter opened fully. Careful examination of the negatives in bright light at an angle to the negative may reveal a ghost image.

Thank you very much.

 

[Bill Burk]

Copal 0, the M/X selector was on M

M fires the flash a few milliseconds before the shutter opens, it gives the flashbulb time to catch fire inside.
X fires the flash the instant the shutter opens, electronic flash (strobe) fires instantly. So X is what a strobe needs.
I bet you figured that out by now (just by looking).

 

[shutterfinger]

I would set the sync lever to X then block it from moving so that it cannot be accidentally put to M.

 

[wiltw]

Copal 0, the M/X selector was on M

M is the flashbulb setting!!! So the electronic flash fired first, then the shutter opened (after the burst of light!)

 

[glbeas]

Put a drop of hot glue on the switch to keep it on X sync unless you plan to use flashbulbs at some point.

 

[Nodda Duma]

I would set the sync lever to X then block it from moving so that it cannot be accidentally put to M.

Or buy flashbulbs like I do!

 

[Jojje]

You can see with your own eyes if the sync operates properly: look into the camera lens from the film side (without film) while operating the shutter with the flash towards lens. If your dazzled, it's ok.

 

[removed account4]

Full power which yielded f/22 on the Sekonic at 400 ISO

probably the wrong sync setting.
i had a studio building mate who had a graflex slr ( 3x4 )
i remember one day his assistant plugged a 2pronged paramount cord and a flash to it.
He blazed through a box of IDK 20 polaroids ...
he, like you, couldn't figure out why every one of his exposures showed 1/2 the shutter
... he had the same problem you are having. ( i had to tell him it was for bulbs and wouldn't work except on 1 speed ... )

if you want to use the M setting on your camera, do as I do !
leave it on M, but don't plug the strobe into the sync. instead put your lens on BULB or TIME open the shutter
... manually pop the flash and ... then close the shutter. works every time !

 

[Darryl Roberts]

probably the wrong sync setting.
i had a studio building mate who had a graflex slr ( 3x4 )
i remember one day his assistant plugged a 2pronged paramount cord and a flash to it.
He blazed through a box of IDK 20 polaroids ...
he, like you, couldn't figure out why every one of his exposures showed 1/2 the shutter
... he had the same problem you are having. ( i had to tell him it was for bulbs and wouldn't work except on 1 speed ... )

if you want to use the M setting on your camera, do as I do !
leave it on M, but don't plug the strobe into the sync. instead put your lens on BULB or TIME open the shutter
... manually pop the flash and ... then close the shutter. works every time !

Ok, thank you I'm gonna try several settings, yours, others to see what works.

 

[Luckless]

You can see with your own eyes if the sync operates properly: look into the camera lens from the film side (without film) while operating the shutter with the flash towards lens. If your dazzled, it's ok.

Health and Safety suggests only attempting this while the flash is on the lowest setting, and pointing AWAY from the lens - Slowly upping the power can then be done for further tests if you're unsure.

Focusing high powered flash directly into the end through a focusing device is 'probably not a good idea', and 'likely should not be done'...

 

[shutterfinger]

Save your eyes, point the flash at a light colored wall. Looking through the lens, aperture wide open, any speed (leaf shutter only), electronic flash - M setting room light wall through the lens and you will notice if the flash actually fires; X - bright wall through the lens. Slower shutter speeds make it easier to see through the lens while the shutter is open.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

Copal 0, the M/X selector was on M

would this not suggest that the flash was fired right away while the shutter wasn't open yet to give flash old-style bulbs a chance to ramp up their light output.You needed X-synchronization to fire flash and shutter together immediately. It could be that your flash was done before the shutter was opened and that, of course, leaves you without exposure. just a quick thought.