Thank you, it was definitely on "M" , I'm gonna reshoot with "X" and lower my shutter speed too.
Thank you, it was definitely on "M" , I'm gonna reshoot with "X" and lower my shutter speed too.would this not suggest that the flash was fired right away while the shutter wasn't open yet to give flash old-style bulbs a chance to ramp up their light output.You needed X-synchronization to fire flash and shutter together immediately. It could be that your flash was done before the shutter was opened and that, of course, leaves you without exposure. just a quick thought.
You don't have to lower the shutter speed. One of the nice things about leaf shutters is that they sync with flash at all speeds. With flash bulbs, this allows control of the flash's guide number. With electronic flash, this makes it possible to overpower ambient light.
He/she is incorrect. No testing required.Yes, that's what I thought, but the darkroom tech is adamant that any over 1/60 will yeild no exposure. So, what I'll do I test 10 sheets and record them.
I'm not sure you need or want to lower your shutter speed. You want to make sure the shutter is open when the flash fires, which is immediately.Thank you, it was definitely on "M" , I'm gonna reshoot with "X" and lower my shutter speed too.
Yes, the lens is a leaf-shutter.He is incorrect. No testing required.
It is possible that he’s thinking of a focal plane shutter where speeds above a certain speed (depending on the specific shutter) can cause part of the frame to get cut off.
Yes, that's what I thought, but the darkroom tech is adamant that any over 1/60 will yeild no exposure. So, what I'll do I test 10 sheets and record them.
Did they say they were underexposed or that there was nothing on the film?
The M sync thing is an error, but it wouldn't leave the film blank, so if the film was blank something else is going on. You either didn't remove the darkslide, the flash didn't fire (you'da noticed that), the shutter is broken, or maybe the lab messed up your film but doesn't want to tell you... The shutter is easy enough to check. Make sure it is firing the flash too. Old shutter contacts tend to be dirty. I always twist the sync cable a few times when I plug them in.
The other alternative is you sent them the wrong film so you might want to double check that.
Thank you.There may be shutters out there that I'm not familiar with wherein the flash synch doesn't function properly at higher speeds.
Any of the leaf shutters I have ever worked with provide flash synch at the higher speeds.
They said there was no exposure.Did they say they were underexposed or that there was nothing on the film?
The M sync thing is an error, but it wouldn't leave the film blank, so if the film was blank something else is going on. You either didn't remove the darkslide, the flash didn't fire (you'da noticed that), the shutter is broken, or maybe the lab messed up your film but doesn't want to tell you... The shutter is easy enough to check. Make sure it is firing the flash too. Old shutter contacts tend to be dirty. I always twist the sync cable a few times when I plug them in.
The other alternative is you sent them the wrong film so you might want to double check that.
If the ambient light is too low and the shutter speed high its quite likely there would be no trace of an image on the film on the wrong sync setting?Did they say they were underexposed or that there was nothing on the film?
The M sync thing is an error, but it wouldn't leave the film blank, so if the film was blank something else is going on. You either didn't remove the darkslide, the flash didn't fire (you'da noticed that), the shutter is broken, or maybe the lab messed up your film but doesn't want to tell you... The shutter is easy enough to check. Make sure it is firing the flash too. Old shutter contacts tend to be dirty. I always twist the sync cable a few times when I plug them in.
The other alternative is you sent them the wrong film so you might want to double check that.
The M sync thing is an error, but it wouldn't leave the film blank, so if the film was blank something else is going on.
Thank you very muchprobably the wrong sync setting.
i had a studio building mate who had a graflex slr ( 3x4 )
i remember one day his assistant plugged a 2pronged paramount cord and a flash to it.
He blazed through a box of IDK 20 polaroids ...
he, like you, couldn't figure out why every one of his exposures showed 1/2 the shutter
... he had the same problem you are having. ( i had to tell him it was for bulbs and wouldn't work except on 1 speed ... )
if you want to use the M setting on your camera, do as I do !
leave it on M, but don't plug the strobe into the sync. instead put your lens on BULB or TIME open the shutter
... manually pop the flash and ... then close the shutter. works every time !
Darryl Roberts said: ↑
Yes, that's what I thought, but the darkroom tech is adamant that any over 1/60 will yeild no exposure. So, what I'll do I test 10 sheets and record them.
+1He/she is incorrect. No testing required.
Glad I could help ! My suggestion works best when there is very little ambient light.Thank you very much
Good deal. The M sync is for use with old flashbulbs, this sync fires the flash bulb BEFORE the shutter opens to give the metal wool in the old flashbulbs time to ignite and reach peak brightness. X is instantaneous. You should be able to sync a leaf shutter to electronic flash at any shutter speed using X sync.Update: I shot it with the x-sync and got images. I've only thus far seen them as negatives but should soon have the positive scans. Thank you all.
Same thing...as long as the emusion is facing the lens.I haven't done sheet film that much but don't the knotches go top right and not bottom left
I haven't done sheet film that much but don't the knotches go top right and not bottom left
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