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Nizo 801 8mm Help!

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Raspy

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Hey Photrio Community!

I'm not sure if this is appropriate but if anyone has had experience with the Nizo 801 or similar model, I have a question for you!
In the photo, I'm pointing at the "iris" dial, and wondering which way opens and closes the aperture.

Thanks a million everyone!

Richard Sweeting
 

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I used Google. This was the first hit: imperfectcinema.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Nizo-801-Macro-Manual.pdf

Shame on you for not looking first.
 
I used Google. This was the first hit: imperfectcinema.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Nizo-801-Macro-Manual.pdf

Shame on you for not looking first.

The light meter in the camera is broken, thats why the manual does no good for me. I need to know the which way opens and closes the aperture and its not in there.
 
The light meter in the camera is broken, thats why the manual does no good for me. I need to know the which way opens and closes the aperture and its not in there.
Have you read the manual? It says that the aperture indicator is visible through the viewfinder. If the aperture control doesn't move the indicator, your camera is probably toast.
 
Have you read the manual? It says that the aperture indicator is visible through the viewfinder. If the aperture control doesn't move the indicator, your camera is probably toast.


Yea read it and the viewfinder is stuck, now I'm here hoping someone knows which way opens or closes the aperture
 
As long as the indicator in the finder is stuck, what sense is in asking about the direction, as you still would not know which aperture you would have set.
Unless someone comes up with a calibration for the unmarked dots of the dial.

(I have not got my Nizo at hand, so I can't help.)
 
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If it's anything like my Nizo 481, the meter needle is what drives the iris, so you'll want to get that camera fixed. On my camera, contact was made via a screw which had come loose. I was able to retighten this without too much disassembly, but it was at an awkward angle.
 
I have Nizo 801 and Professional. Cameras will not expose properly without working meter. This is the case with almost every Super8 camera. These cameras have great ergonomic design, steady film gate and very good lenses...well worth getting repaired. Try DuAll camera in NYC.
 
guangong, I think you're mistaken. When I was filming, all of my Canons with manual exposure would let me set the aperture on manual and told me what it was. My Beaulieus too. R8 (bought at a flea market, quickly resold) and R10 (bought, failed acceptance testing, returned) too.

I looked at the 801 manual I directed the OP to, it is pretty explicit that on manual the aperture selected is displayed in the finder. If, that is, the camera is working properly. In the Canon 814E, 814 XL-E and 514 XL-E the linkage between the aperture setting knob and the aperture contained a rubber ball. When the ball perishes, there goes the ability to set the aperture manually.
 
Dan, I am not familiar with Canon Super8 cameras, except for their compact SL. Always liked the compact design of the Nizo. Beaulieu also. Smallest S8 camera I have is Mini Bolex S8. No time to check cameras, but for Nizo, while the f stop can be set manually (there is a manual setting on camera ) it seems to me that the meter must be working for it to function properly. I must confess that I have never tried manual with inoperative meter and must try it sometime so you may be correct.
The nice thing about Beaulieu Super8 is that film speed is set manually, independent of film cassette key.
For Super8 I have always trusted the onboard meter, making slight adjustments manually if necessary. On the other hand, except for a Beaulieu R16, none of my 16 mm cameras have meters.
 
Hey Photrio Community!

I'm not sure if this is appropriate but if anyone has had experience with the Nizo 801 or similar model, I have a question for you!
In the photo, I'm pointing at the "iris" dial, and wondering which way opens and closes the aperture.

Thanks a million everyone!

Richard Sweeting

$ 500.000,- should be realy enough.
Have you pushed the green button in the middle - and then turned the weel ?
with regards
If you did it - you might see a marker in the viewfinder wich change the possition while turning the weel.
And that should work without batteries for exposure control. (the little ones).
If your workflow is likee this you then have "manual exposure".

Hope his could solve your problems.

with regards

PS : If your "automatic controled exposure" is not working - first check your batteries.
(just from remind : It has to be the green boton also - witch let the exposure indikator run in the middle if batteries are good - there should be a green and a red area)
 
If it's anything like my Nizo 481, the meter needle is what drives the iris, so you'll want to get that camera fixed. On my camera, contact was made via a screw which had come loose. I was able to retighten this without too much disassembly, but it was at an awkward angle.

Hi! Could you explain where this needle is? (front panel, left panel, right panel, etc).

I have the same camera with the same problem and am not sure where the screw is you are talking about. Perhaps the attached photo can help you point this out to me.
 

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Hi! Could you explain where this needle is? (front panel, left panel, right panel, etc).

I have the same camera with the same problem and am not sure where the screw is you are talking about. Perhaps the attached photo can help you point this out to me.
Needle is part of the lens diapragm assembly which is barely accessible in the area I've circled in green. I did not wish to remove the lens and front panel, which made access to the loose screw trickier than it needed to be.

But whether your camera has the same problem, I don't know: If your camera shows signs of mercury battery leakage, you may have a corroded battery wire.
 

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Needle is part of the lens diapragm assembly which is barely accessible in the area I've circled in green. I did not wish to remove the lens and front panel, which made access to the loose screw trickier than it needed to be.

But whether your camera has the same problem, I don't know: If your camera shows signs of mercury battery leakage, you may have a corroded battery wire.
Thanks for getting back to me. All the screws in this area are tightened. I can see the iris blades and needle move when I do the battery test, so everything appears to be properly connected, nothing stuck. Unfortunately I think I'm calling this a loss, likely a corroded wire.
 
Thanks for getting back to me. All the screws in this area are tightened. I can see the iris blades and needle move when I do the battery test, so everything appears to be properly connected, nothing stuck. Unfortunately I think I'm calling this a loss, likely a corroded wire.
Why? If you don't know how to solder, or have failed at it previously, there's still hope. IMO, it's kind of a dream scenario when I get a killer deal on an old camera which isn't working, and only need to replace a wire!
 
Hello! Its a year later but if you still have you camera and still have your issue, I think I solved the same one on my Nizo S480. My aperture wouldn't move from wide open with the aperture control dial, but would close when I pushed the on switch to the left to test the light meter test.

This means either my aperture control dial was faulty or somewhere it wasn't transmitting power to the aperture motor. It ended up being the latter.

Solder a wire to connect the two contacts in the image. This Solved my problem, hopefully it is the same as yours.

I was able to route the wire through the little plastic heat shrink to keep everything neat. Good Luck!
 

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