I used Google. This was the first hit: imperfectcinema.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Nizo-801-Macro-Manual.pdf
Shame on you for not looking first.
Thank you Sean !You might want to try here: https://www.photrio.com/forum/index.php?groups/acug-analogue-cine-user-group.42/group
Have you read the manual? It says that the aperture indicator is visible through the viewfinder. If the aperture control doesn't move the indicator, your camera is probably toast.The light meter in the camera is broken, thats why the manual does no good for me. I need to know the which way opens and closes the aperture and its not in there.
Have you read the manual? It says that the aperture indicator is visible through the viewfinder. If the aperture control doesn't move the indicator, your camera is probably toast.
Where do you get film for it?
Hey Photrio Community!
I'm not sure if this is appropriate but if anyone has had experience with the Nizo 801 or similar model, I have a question for you!
In the photo, I'm pointing at the "iris" dial, and wondering which way opens and closes the aperture.
Thanks a million everyone!
Richard Sweeting
If it's anything like my Nizo 481, the meter needle is what drives the iris, so you'll want to get that camera fixed. On my camera, contact was made via a screw which had come loose. I was able to retighten this without too much disassembly, but it was at an awkward angle.
Needle is part of the lens diapragm assembly which is barely accessible in the area I've circled in green. I did not wish to remove the lens and front panel, which made access to the loose screw trickier than it needed to be.Hi! Could you explain where this needle is? (front panel, left panel, right panel, etc).
I have the same camera with the same problem and am not sure where the screw is you are talking about. Perhaps the attached photo can help you point this out to me.
Thanks for getting back to me. All the screws in this area are tightened. I can see the iris blades and needle move when I do the battery test, so everything appears to be properly connected, nothing stuck. Unfortunately I think I'm calling this a loss, likely a corroded wire.Needle is part of the lens diapragm assembly which is barely accessible in the area I've circled in green. I did not wish to remove the lens and front panel, which made access to the loose screw trickier than it needed to be.
But whether your camera has the same problem, I don't know: If your camera shows signs of mercury battery leakage, you may have a corroded battery wire.
Why? If you don't know how to solder, or have failed at it previously, there's still hope. IMO, it's kind of a dream scenario when I get a killer deal on an old camera which isn't working, and only need to replace a wire!Thanks for getting back to me. All the screws in this area are tightened. I can see the iris blades and needle move when I do the battery test, so everything appears to be properly connected, nothing stuck. Unfortunately I think I'm calling this a loss, likely a corroded wire.
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