I've seen a number of ways to do this. Les McLean has a slightly expanded version in his book Creative Black and White Photography.
The basic method is to bracket a series of exposures three times so that you have three identical exposure sets. Then develop one set for less than recommended time, one at recommended time, and one longer than recommended time. This gives you a range of combinations of effective film speeds and development times, and a very good idea where you should be for both film speed and development.
A good place to start for nine exposures would be exposure brackets of -1, normal, and +1 stop photographing a subject with your typical brightness range. Do this three times and develop one set of negatives for the recommended time, then the other two sets at 80% and 120% of the recommended development time. Choose the negative with the shadow detail and contrast that allows you the best straight print on your chosen paper and you're well on your way to having your best results with that developer/film combination. You may need to fine tune or adjust for different shooting conditions (higher or lower dynamic range in the subject), but you'll get very close and be able to see the trend that suggests any fine tuning.
BTW, Les shows a -2, -1, normal, +1, and +2 stop bracket in his book, so you get 15 exposures rather than 9.
Lee