Nikon N75/F75 vs. Minolta Dynax 5/Maxxum 5

[Ronix18]

Hello, everyone.

I come to you hoping that you all can help me decide, and maybe tell me your opinions and experiences with any of these two cameras.

I’ve been shooting film for about 5 years now. I always shoot an Olympus OM-2n with a Zuiko 50mm 1.8, Olympus 35 RC and an Olympus mju ii (Stylus Epic). I do most of all color photography, not black and white. I shoot landscapes, architecture, urban life and sometimes portraits, I do not shoot street photography almost never. I am not a professional photographer, I just happen to love photography and I take it seriously, even though I do not need a super pro gear to be happy.

Even though I’m very happy with my cameras, I wanted to try an AF SLR which is small and light (my Stylus Epic is great but way too automatic), because I don’t like heavy bulky cameras. I have small hands and I always carry a camera with me in my backpack (I always carry with me one of the above mentioned).

After doing some research, I decided I might take one of this two cameras: A Nikon N75 (or F75) or a Minolta Dynax 5 (Or Maxxum 5). I found both in mint condition (bodys only) for 30€ here where I live in France (shipment cost included).
Ergonomics, size and weight are the dealbreaker for me (otherwise I’d take an F100), and of course lenses (I want to buy an AF 50mm f/1.8 d if I choose the Nikon or an AF 50mm f/1.7 if I choose the Minolta, because I prefer shooting in 50mm than a lens-kit).

I have read that overall the Minolta is a better camera, and I wanted to know if the lens just mentioned above is also better than the Nikon one.
What about metering, exposure and AF speed in these two cameras? Apparently, the Dynax is better metering (and it’s easier to use the spot metering) and it focuses faster, but I’m concerned that the lens is not as sharp as the Nikon one. Also, I prefer the black look of the Nikon, even though the Minolta kind of reminds me of my OM-2n.

I really cannot decide yet, that’s why I would be so grateful if you could help me and give me some advices.

Thank you in advance, guys!

 

[mgb74]

Have you considered the cost, quality, and availability of lenses for either body?

I consider Minolta glass equal to Nikon glass. The earlier Minolta AF lenses have very good build quality. Minolta A-mount lenses much cheaper. But for a really, really broad range of lenses, Nikon has Minolta beat.

 

[Ronix18]

Thanks for the answer!

Yes, I have. The two lenses mentioned above habe similar prices, the Minolta one being less expensive for like 10€.
Are Nikon lenses better than Minolta ones? Sharpness, distortion and AF speed.

 

[Ronix18]

Have*
Sorry for the typo!

 

[Cholentpot]

I got an N70 this fall, it has one feature that I love, not sure if the N75 has it. For manual lenses which is all I have for Nikon, it has an electronic rangefinder. It really works well. I can shoot wide open at 1.8 and still nail the shot.

 

[mgb74]

Thanks for the answer!

Yes, I have. The two lenses mentioned above habe similar prices, the Minolta one being less expensive for like 10€.
Are Nikon lenses better than Minolta ones? Sharpness, distortion and AF speed.

AF speed will be a function of both body and lens. I have a Minolta 600si and 800si and have had Nikon F100. I can't say that I've noticed a material difference, but haven't used them where AF speed is critical.

As to sharpness and distortion, I've shot both (Minolta and Nikon) and have never felt the lens was the limiting factor. I think both those 50s are well constructed.

I think both bodies you referenced were targeted to the same somewhat low-end consumer market. That suggests, baring a design flaw, that neither will be particularly rugged. If you haven't already, you may want to check battery requirements for each as to availability and cost.

I realize you're limited by what might be available to you, but if I was making a low-cost Nikon vs. Minolta decision, it would be between the Nikon N90s and the Minolta si series. I'm somewhat biased, but I've been very impressed with the Minolta 600si and 800si I've been using (not so thrilled with the 700si). Impressed the the lenses, metering is great, very good ergonomics, The only thing I don't like is the reliance on a 2CR5 lithium battery (would much prefer the AAs as used by the N90s).

 

[Ronix18]

If you haven't already, you may want to check battery requirements for each as to availability and cost.

They both use the same batteries: 2CR5, which are quite cheap here in France (about 3€ a pair) and you can even buy rechargeable ones.

QUOTE="mgb74, post: 2030723, member: 4735"]I realize you're limited by what might be available to you, but if I was making a low-cost Nikon vs. Minolta decision, it would be between the Nikon N90s and the Minolta si series.[/QUOTE]

I’m limited by size and weight of the whole body+lens. I want something small that I can easily carry with me without feeling like it’s a burden, and I find the N90 quite big and heavy compared to the N75.

 

[mgb74]

I’m limited by size and weight of the whole body+lens. I want something small that I can easily carry with me without feeling like it’s a burden, and I find the N90 quite big and heavy compared to the N75.

Then you might find the Minolta's I'm so fond of a bit too big and heavy too.

 

[ic-racer]

N75

https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/how-many-nikons.90160/page-10#post-2012710

 

[Ronix18]

N75

https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/how-many-nikons.90160/page-10#post-2012710

Great! Thanks a lot. Sounds very well.
What about size/weight? Do you find them light? And what about metering? Is it accurate?

Thanks in advance!

 

[ic-racer]

I think N75 has the best matrix meter in a non-Pro type camera. I'm a 'match the needle' hardcore from the 1970s, but Matrix metering exposes for the shadows and does as well as I can do with a hand-held meter. The camera is very small and lightweight. They might be fragile in very heavy use (I have not had any fail me but I have a box of broken Rolleiflex 35mm SLRS). However, you can get a box of working N75s for the price of an F6.

 

[neilt3]

If you want a Minolta like the Dynax 5 but you said you prefer it all black like the Nikon , get a Dynax 60 (Maxxum 70 ) .
Although you normally chose a camera based of other things than colour .
Do you already have lenses that fit either camera ?
That's the main question .

 

[Ronix18]

Do you already have lenses that fit either camera ?
That's the main question .

No, I don’t.
Which lenses do you fancy more? At least 50mm and 35mm. Minolta or Nikon?

Cheers!

 

[Ronix18]

I think N75 has the best matrix meter in a non-Pro type camera. I'm a 'match the needle' hardcore from the 1970s, but Matrix metering exposes for the shadows and does as well as I can do with a hand-held meter. The camera is very small and lightweight. They might be fragile in very heavy use (I have not had any fail me but I have a box of broken Rolleiflex 35mm SLRS). However, you can get a box of working N75s for the price of an F6.

Very helpful, thanks!

 

[david_pp84]

I personally use a lightweight Nikon F80 attached with the Nikon 50mm F1.8G. This provides a high quality lightweight solution. The AF is great and if it breaks (I have 2 copies and they're both going strong) then I'll replace it for £40. I also own OM's and a Leica and much prefer shooting with the Nikon. Hope that helps.

 

[Chan Tran]

What's wrong with a Maxxum 7? And what is wrong with the F100? For me personally I don't feel like using either the F75 (N75) or the Maxxum (Dynax) 5.

 

[jim10219]

If all you're ever going to own is the 50mm, then pick whichever is cheapest or in the best condition. If, however, you might buy more lenses and make a system out of it, I'd get the Minolta. Those old Nikon lenses still command a fair bit of money (the nifty fifties aren't too bad, of course), due to them still being compatible with the latest DSLR's, and thus still in high demand. But, if money was no object and you simply wanted the largest selection available of lenses, then Nikon would be the way to go.

In 35mm SLR, I shoot Pentax and Nikon. My girlfriend shoots Minolta and Canon. In all honesty, they're all pretty much equal to each other. As far as individual lenses go, you could argue that one lens is better than a similar lens on a different format. But then you pick another focal length, and you may find that the best example is on a different format. When considering the systems as a whole, all of those brands are pretty much equal in my opinion, with the only real difference being availability of lenses and the prices they command. They all make great 50mm lenses, and you'd be hard pressed to say one is significantly better than any other.

 

[Paul Howell]

In terms of lens, Minolta A mount are good as they get, the 5 will use newer 8 pin lens or the older 5 pin lens, will not work with Sony Micro Motor lens. The only Minolta bodies that work with micro motor lens are all 7s and 9s that were converted. 5 pin 50mm 1.7 and 28 2.8 lens are inexpensive. In terms of zooms, the 35 to 70 3/5 is a very nice lens, the 70 to 200 F4 known as the beer can lens is just short of pro quality. I cant complain about new models, 28 to 100, 100 to 300 or older 75 to 300 are all very sharp. These lens are gear driven by a motor in the camera, so a entry level body like the 5 will not be as fast as a 7 or 9. If you want a semi pro level body on the cheap, 800SI, get one with a motor grip so you can use AA batteries. I agree that the N75 has better matrix metering, but, Nikon users will either confirm or dispute, matrix metering is calibrated for slide film. In most cases I use average or spot metering.

 

[Chan Tran]

In terms of lens, Minolta A mount are good as they get, the 5 will use newer 8 pin lens or the older 5 pin lens, will not work with Sony Micro Motor lens. The only Minolta bodies that work with micro motor lens are all 7s and 9s that were converted. 5 pin 50mm 1.7 and 28 2.8 lens are inexpensive. In terms of zooms, the 35 to 70 3/5 is a very nice lens, the 70 to 200 F4 known as the beer can lens is just short of pro quality. I cant complain about new models, 28 to 100, 100 to 300 or older 75 to 300 are all very sharp. These lens are gear driven by a motor in the camera, so a entry level body like the 5 will not be as fast as a 7 or 9. If you want a semi pro level body on the cheap, 800SI, get one with a motor grip so you can use AA batteries. I agree that the N75 has better matrix metering, but, Nikon users will either confirm or dispute, matrix metering is calibrated for slide film. In most cases I use average or spot metering.

I found on my F5 matrix metering is optimized (rather than calling it calibrated) for slide film and digital (that is if I take a meter reading with the F5 matrix metering and use the settings on a DSLR the result is great) and doesn't work well with color negative film.

 

[Ronix18]

First of all, thanks to everyone!

I personally use a lightweight Nikon F80 attached with the Nikon 50mm F1.8G. This provides a high quality lightweight solution. The AF is great and if it breaks (I have 2 copies and they're both going strong) then I'll replace it for £40. I also own OM's and a Leica and much prefer shooting with the Nikon. Hope that helps.

Thanks!

What's wrong with a Maxxum 7? And what is wrong with the F100? For me personally I don't feel like using either the F75 (N75) or the Maxxum (Dynax) 5.

Main problem being not only the price here in France, but also the fact that they are heavier and more bulky!

They all make great 50mm lenses, and you'd be hard pressed to say one is significantly better than any other.

Minolta A mount are good as they get

Ok guys, so someone I know told me this exactly:
"The worse thing about the Dynax is the 50/1.7 lens. I have two of these lenses and while they are very sharp when they can focus they often miss focus. I get soft out of focus pictures 4 out of 10 shots on different AF Minolta bodies. I don't know if maybe the lenses have dried lubricants or what the problem is but my Dynax 5 can focus fine with other Minolta AF lenses. I have heard this is a common problem with the AF 50/1.7 especially wide open. Both my 50/1.7 have focus problems but otherwise they are very sharp".

So I'm kind of confused. Two more people confirmed this.

I found on my F5 matrix metering is optimized (rather than calling it calibrated) for slide film and digital (that is if I take a meter reading with the F5 matrix metering and use the settings on a DSLR the result is great) and doesn't work well with color negative film.

Do you mean that you CN photos are never well exposed when you make use of matrix metering?

 

[Ronix18]

I think N75 has the best matrix meter in a non-Pro type camera. I'm a 'match the needle' hardcore from the 1970s, but Matrix metering exposes for the shadows and does as well as I can do with a hand-held meter. The camera is very small and lightweight. They might be fragile in very heavy use (I have not had any fail me but I have a box of broken Rolleiflex 35mm SLRS). However, you can get a box of working N75s for the price of an F6.

Thanks again!

Oh yes, I forgot to ask: is it very noisy or not that much? AF, film advancing and rewinding.
Does it focus fairly fast? Do you find them small, light and easy to carry around? This would totally influence my experience and the fun I'd have shooting it!

 

[lantau]

The Dynax 5 can use ssm lenses, like the 7. The 9 can only do it with an update. My Sony SSM zoom lens works.

My copy of the 50mm has a weird problem when turning the focus ring back and forth. After a few rounds it will seize up. But the camera doesn't seem to have such problem when driving it on AF. However I haven't really used that camera much. It's just a test body for me. But really convenient for doing what the OP wants. Anyway, maybe the person with AF problems, whom the OP mentioned may have such a problem. Make sure you can turn the AF ring at least 15x when the lens is detached without getting more difficult to turn.

My viewfinder isn't too great. There is a vertical band of slightly different brightness in the middle, and the illumination of the used AF point is difficult to see. But the af hasn't failed me yet at my limited usage.

I exposed a Ct precisa in it. Outdoors, sunny weather. Highlights like white walls or a bright pebble path were overexposed and blown out. Mid tones were spot on. I'd say it exposes more for the shadows, hence perfect for negative film. But again, due to limited usage that is a bit anecdotal.

 

[Ronix18]

The Dynax 5 can use ssm lenses, like the 7. The 9 can only do it with an update. My Sony SSM zoom lens works.

My copy of the 50mm has a weird problem when turning the focus ring back and forth. After a few rounds it will seize up. But the camera doesn't seem to have such problem when driving it on AF. However I haven't really used that camera much. It's just a test body for me. But really convenient for doing what the OP wants. Anyway, maybe the person with AF problems, whom the OP mentioned may have such a problem. Make sure you can turn the AF ring at least 15x when the lens is detached without getting more difficult to turn.

My viewfinder isn't too great. There is a vertical band of slightly different brightness in the middle, and the illumination of the used AF point is difficult to see. But the af hasn't failed me yet at my limited usage.

I exposed a Ct precisa in it. Outdoors, sunny weather. Highlights like white walls or a bright pebble path were overexposed and blown out. Mid tones were spot on. I'd say it exposes more for the shadows, hence perfect for negative film. But again, due to limited usage that is a bit anecdotal.

Thanks, but I did not understand what camera or lenses are you talking about, sorry.

 

[lantau]

Thanks, but I did not understand what camera or lenses are you talking about, sorry.

Another user said that the 5 cannot use SSM type lenses, which is incorrect. These are modern lenses with a fast and silent type of autofocus drive build into the lens. They don't use the motor in the camera body.

 

[benveniste]

As much as I liked the N/F75, I can't recommend it in a world where film is becoming a boutique product.

The issue is DX encoding. If the F75 can't read the encoding, it sets the ISO to 100 and there's no way to override it except via exposure compensation. While Porter's used to sell "DX Coded Film Labels," I can't find anyone selling them now, so you'd have to print your own.