Thanks for the answer!
Yes, I have. The two lenses mentioned above habe similar prices, the Minolta one being less expensive for like 10€.
Are Nikon lenses better than Minolta ones? Sharpness, distortion and AF speed.
If you haven't already, you may want to check battery requirements for each as to availability and cost.
I’m limited by size and weight of the whole body+lens. I want something small that I can easily carry with me without feeling like it’s a burden, and I find the N90 quite big and heavy compared to the N75.
No, I don’t.Do you already have lenses that fit either camera ?
That's the main question .
I think N75 has the best matrix meter in a non-Pro type camera. I'm a 'match the needle' hardcore from the 1970s, but Matrix metering exposes for the shadows and does as well as I can do with a hand-held meter. The camera is very small and lightweight. They might be fragile in very heavy use (I have not had any fail me but I have a box of broken Rolleiflex 35mm SLRS). However, you can get a box of working N75s for the price of an F6.
I found on my F5 matrix metering is optimized (rather than calling it calibrated) for slide film and digital (that is if I take a meter reading with the F5 matrix metering and use the settings on a DSLR the result is great) and doesn't work well with color negative film.In terms of lens, Minolta A mount are good as they get, the 5 will use newer 8 pin lens or the older 5 pin lens, will not work with Sony Micro Motor lens. The only Minolta bodies that work with micro motor lens are all 7s and 9s that were converted. 5 pin 50mm 1.7 and 28 2.8 lens are inexpensive. In terms of zooms, the 35 to 70 3/5 is a very nice lens, the 70 to 200 F4 known as the beer can lens is just short of pro quality. I cant complain about new models, 28 to 100, 100 to 300 or older 75 to 300 are all very sharp. These lens are gear driven by a motor in the camera, so a entry level body like the 5 will not be as fast as a 7 or 9. If you want a semi pro level body on the cheap, 800SI, get one with a motor grip so you can use AA batteries. I agree that the N75 has better matrix metering, but, Nikon users will either confirm or dispute, matrix metering is calibrated for slide film. In most cases I use average or spot metering.
Thanks!I personally use a lightweight Nikon F80 attached with the Nikon 50mm F1.8G. This provides a high quality lightweight solution. The AF is great and if it breaks (I have 2 copies and they're both going strong) then I'll replace it for £40. I also own OM's and a Leica and much prefer shooting with the Nikon. Hope that helps.
Main problem being not only the price here in France, but also the fact that they are heavier and more bulky!What's wrong with a Maxxum 7? And what is wrong with the F100? For me personally I don't feel like using either the F75 (N75) or the Maxxum (Dynax) 5.
They all make great 50mm lenses, and you'd be hard pressed to say one is significantly better than any other.
Minolta A mount are good as they get
Do you mean that you CN photos are never well exposed when you make use of matrix metering?I found on my F5 matrix metering is optimized (rather than calling it calibrated) for slide film and digital (that is if I take a meter reading with the F5 matrix metering and use the settings on a DSLR the result is great) and doesn't work well with color negative film.
I think N75 has the best matrix meter in a non-Pro type camera. I'm a 'match the needle' hardcore from the 1970s, but Matrix metering exposes for the shadows and does as well as I can do with a hand-held meter. The camera is very small and lightweight. They might be fragile in very heavy use (I have not had any fail me but I have a box of broken Rolleiflex 35mm SLRS). However, you can get a box of working N75s for the price of an F6.
The Dynax 5 can use ssm lenses, like the 7. The 9 can only do it with an update. My Sony SSM zoom lens works.
My copy of the 50mm has a weird problem when turning the focus ring back and forth. After a few rounds it will seize up. But the camera doesn't seem to have such problem when driving it on AF. However I haven't really used that camera much. It's just a test body for me. But really convenient for doing what the OP wants. Anyway, maybe the person with AF problems, whom the OP mentioned may have such a problem. Make sure you can turn the AF ring at least 15x when the lens is detached without getting more difficult to turn.
My viewfinder isn't too great. There is a vertical band of slightly different brightness in the middle, and the illumination of the used AF point is difficult to see. But the af hasn't failed me yet at my limited usage.
I exposed a Ct precisa in it. Outdoors, sunny weather. Highlights like white walls or a bright pebble path were overexposed and blown out. Mid tones were spot on. I'd say it exposes more for the shadows, hence perfect for negative film. But again, due to limited usage that is a bit anecdotal.
Another user said that the 5 cannot use SSM type lenses, which is incorrect. These are modern lenses with a fast and silent type of autofocus drive build into the lens. They don't use the motor in the camera body.Thanks, but I did not understand what camera or lenses are you talking about, sorry.
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